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Results 21 to 30 of 115
  1. #21

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Bean there, Regarding your question about whether one can over illuminate plants, I've never yet heard of harm done by having excess light. The problem is that the plants cannot use it, and algae will gladly step up to do so, resulting in an outbreak.

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Mopani bucket down to pH 7.0 (8.4 tap - 7.4 @ 12hr - 7.2 @24hr - 7.0 @36hr), but I dumped and re-filled the bucket since I don't think it's a good idea to leave it stagnant forever. It looks like pH won't be a major factor with that wood. It's still tea-colouring the water though. I will stick with it for now, but eventually get impatient and plop it in the tank since the tannins are harmless anyway. (And I'll run carbon to keep the colour from getting out of hand)

    Tank measurements after a day:
    pH 6.8 (tap water, 8.3)! There's nothing obvious in the tank that would do this. Flourite substrate claims to be neutral/inert. Slate rock is neutral by most accounts, by a handful I've found, can raise pH (not lower it). Mopani is not in the tank yet. Otherwise we're looking at the tank and equipment itself, unlikely. Probably has to do with the city's water itself and my lack of understanding of "buffering" - something I'm too tired to search right now.

    I can live with a pH of 6.8 so long as it's stable; hoping there's no downward trend. I feel that I should make sure the pH is steady before starting cycling.

    Tank ammonia up to 0.75 from 0.5 tap, but I believe that'd be from the Stress Coat tackling the chloramines, a reaction that I believe that produces ammonia.

    I filled the water to the top to make the spray bar be quiet - WOW - I've never heard an aquarium this quiet! The filter is effectively silent when kept in a closed cabinet. No rushing of water when the bar is under the surface, it's just tranquil. I am very impressed with this Eheim. I drilled the spray bar to get a bit less surface turbulence and flickering from the LEDs, something I hope will also lessen as the water clears.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    OK, may need a hand here. This morning's tank pH measurement: 6.0 according to API kit. I have a Seachem stick-on PH monitor saying 7.0 but I know that the drops are the most reliable.

    Everything that's in the water column: flourite substrate, 8 pieces of slate, siliconed together with aquarium sealant from the pet store (allowed 4 days to cure, double the recommended), heater, canister filter & hoses, stock Eheim media (all rinsed), pH and ammonia testers on suction cups (they both seem to be reporting bad info anyway, so maybe I should just ditch them)

    I was going to plant today, but maybe I should wait until I have the pH under control?

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Have you tested your KH/GH?

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by shifttofirst View Post
    Have you tested your KH/GH?
    Nope, I don't have kh/gh tests.
    Is this some wonky city water, or is it possible I've done something wrong? The pH test doesn't go lower than 6.0, so the pH could be even lower, there's no way to know. It seems especially odd to me because it comes out of the tap at 8.4.

    LFS sold me a salt-based product that levels your pH out at 7.0, but I read the back and it says "not for aquariums with live plants", so I'll be returning it.

    I want plants, and then fish. The tank is boring with just water :(

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I've not done anything with the aquarium the last few days. Just tested the water -- I think it's saying 6.4?
    Should I change the water?
    Could the rocks have had an impact? I did not soak them first; I merely rinsed/scrubbed, allowed the dry, siliconed, allowed to cure.
    I'm attaching a picture of the rocks - are they slate as alleged by the LFS, and can I absolve them of responsibility for the low ph?
    Thank you to all the passers by lending their thoughts.
    IMG_20140123_210334 (Small).jpg
    IMG_20140123_205838 (Small).jpg
    IMG_20140123_205846 (Small).jpg

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    With life keeping me busy with non-aquarium stuff, not a lot has happened unfortunately. I'm trying not to get discouraged by the low pH situation.

    - LFS says the city's water is infamous for being poorly buffered, pH crashing is apparently a common issue for hobbyists in the area.
    - LFS took my return of the pH-raising product, but suggested other similar products instead; I declined (for now). I think a solution that doesn't involve feeding product into my tank will be more stable, if I can find one.
    - After a 60% water change, I am observing the same pH-dive over several days.
    - I plan to install aeration, as I understand it can remove excess CO2 and help raise pH. (Although I planned on planting the tank, and desired some CO2). If necessary, perhaps I can run CO2 and aeration simultaneously?
    - The Stress Coat + I'm using promises to neutralize heavy metals. My water is pretty soft to start with; I wonder if that product is killing the water's ability to buffer even further. I plan to buy a bottle of Prime, then do a 75% water change, and see what happens. I'm avoiding doing 100% due to the substrate being terribly messy.

    I have a science experiment underway whereby I am measuring the pH drop of several bodies of water.
    -Tap water (control)
    -Water treated with Stress Coat
    -Water with the Mopani wood

    If the Stress coat water lowers quicker than the control bucket, I'll have my answer.
    Whether the pH issue is lack of aeration, the Stress Coat, or something else, time will hopefully tell.

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I will also lower the temperature (I set it to 82 in anticipation of cycling) since I've found reference to high temps contributing to low pH.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Seattle Side of the Mountains
    Posts
    2,531

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    It sounds like there is an issue with the buffering capacity (aka KH) of your water from the tap.

    There is some great info here (linky) on Water Chemistry that does a much better job than I on explaining how PH/KH and GH work together.

    If it is the KH, you can buffer it with a little bit of baking soda, which is pretty inexpensive.

    I have not heard of temp affecting the ph.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks Trilliane. It's definitely the water source. I just got a KH/GH test... if I did the test correctly, I believe my KH is 1 degree / 17.9ppm, and my GH is 3 or 4 degrees / between 53-72ppm. So, pretty soft.

    I got a sponge filter for aeration instead of just an air stone. Having a 2nd filter will be beneficial on days I clean my canister, and possibly for moving over to a QT some day. Hoping the air helps the pH.

    Will investigate the baking soda option as well as commercial products.

    Bought some prime, and I will use it on my next WC. Still interested to see how my Stress Coat vs untreated pH experiment turns out.

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