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  1. #1

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    Default Still slight Amm reading on API kit, can I assume it's cycled?


    0 Not allowed!
    Alright, so I've been reading that API test kits pretty much always show some ammonia. I had a mini-cycle in my 29 Biocube, and I now have no nitrate readings but slight ammonia readings. Snails are breeding in there, so I assume the water's decent... Is it safe to assume that the tank's cycled?
    I hate hearing people say "it's only a $3/$5/$1 fish/shrimp, so it's ok if it dies, I can just get another." It's still an animal! All animals should be treated like they're worth $10,000.
    29 sw: Damsel, shrimpgoby, pistol shrimp, waspfish
    65 fw: Rummies, glowlight tetras, pencilfish, darters, ottos, f betta, goby, dwarf gourami, ninjas
    29 fw: Chili rasboras, pygmy cories, P. Gertrudae

  2. #2

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    Thanks for the clarification - Mith   A few clown for the fellow SW clowns. :D - ILuvMyGoldBarb   sorry about your angelfish - smaug   Many cultures donw through the ages have known that Ice cream is the perfect band-aid for all occasions. ~  Sorry for your loss. - 850R   Here's some Christmass Cheer, Happy Holidays Sheamurai - Cliff   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I wouldn't. I don't know where you read that API test kits always read ammonia, I've certainly zero readings with mine.

    How long have you been cycling the tank? You should have at least some nitrates in your tank if its cycled, unless you have a lot of plants. Did you ever get any nitrite readings? It generally takes weeks to cycle your tank, and when its done, you usually need a water change to reduce your nitrates to something near zero. Your tank does not sound cycled to me. The waters just not toxic enough to affect your snails.

    There are some good stickies here on AC about cycling, and they aren't a long read. Might be an idea to have a look at them.

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Darn it, meant to write that I have no nitrites. There are plenty of nitrates, I just don't bother measuring them since I know I have some.
    I had the tank set up the day after Christmas, and I put some sponge filter medium and a tiny filter cartrige from my main tank in there. Thing was, it wasn't enough to support even some micro-fish, apparently. On the 28th, I put the fish in a hang-on box in my main tank and chucked a few bits of raw crayfish in the biocube to keep the mini-cycle going. I was worried that trying to deal with a mini-cycle was going to kill all the fish, as I'd already lost four out of five chili rasboras.
    So far, my ammonia has just been bouncing all over the place from 0.25 to 1.25, the nitrites rose to around 1.25 and have now gone away, and the nitrates are varying but around 10-ish.
    As to where I read that... I remembered hearing it somewhere, so I googled it. A lot of people say it's a problem, and the theories why range from it detecting ammonia that's locked up in the water conditioner to the stuff supposedly detecting traces of what's already been turned into nitrates.
    I hate hearing people say "it's only a $3/$5/$1 fish/shrimp, so it's ok if it dies, I can just get another." It's still an animal! All animals should be treated like they're worth $10,000.
    29 sw: Damsel, shrimpgoby, pistol shrimp, waspfish
    65 fw: Rummies, glowlight tetras, pencilfish, darters, ottos, f betta, goby, dwarf gourami, ninjas
    29 fw: Chili rasboras, pygmy cories, P. Gertrudae

  4. #4

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I don't consider it cycled yet...!

  5. #5

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Sorry if I have missed this, but have you confirmed if your test kit is giving you accurate results. Maybe you could get someone to test your water for you to see if they will get the same results as you, like a reliable LFS ?

    Might be a good idea to confirm your test results first.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  6. #6

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    This can happen if your water supply contains chloramines. I've been down this road before, but it happens to my tanks from time to time. Because of this problem, I invested in a Seachem ammonia test kit, which tells the difference between ammonia and ammonium caused by the breakdown of chloramines (as well as ammonium from ammonia removers).

    Two things to do before you consider it cycled, is to get a Seachem test kit (had to order mine online) to check if there is any free ammonia in the tank or is it rendered ammonium, and, get a water quality list from your water supplier (they supply this for free). It will tell you if you are dealing with chloramines.

    Also test water at least two days after a water change. If its Chloramine, in a few days the cycle will handle the ammonium just like it does ammonia.

    Hope that helps.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  7. #7

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You might also want to test your tap water. If you get zero readings there across the board, you can be more certain that your test kit is giving you proper results. If you don't, you have a bad test kit or contaminated water, which would make cycling your tank more of a headache as the levels would vary every time you did a water change.

  8. #8

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I've tested our tap water... Slightly under 0.25 ammonia reading. Now, we do have chloramines in our water from what I found out, but the water conditioner I'm using (API brand, actually) is supposed to remove those.
    I guess I'll have to see if a pet store near us has a test kit that can tell the difference...
    I'm curious. If it is actually ammonia left, how much longer do you suppose it'll be until the tank is really cycled?
    I hate hearing people say "it's only a $3/$5/$1 fish/shrimp, so it's ok if it dies, I can just get another." It's still an animal! All animals should be treated like they're worth $10,000.
    29 sw: Damsel, shrimpgoby, pistol shrimp, waspfish
    65 fw: Rummies, glowlight tetras, pencilfish, darters, ottos, f betta, goby, dwarf gourami, ninjas
    29 fw: Chili rasboras, pygmy cories, P. Gertrudae

  9. #9

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    No matter what conditioner you use, if it "handles chloramines", that means it turns breaks chloramine down. The end product of breaking down chloramine? Ammonium....... which can be read as a positive on an API master test kit.

    Removing the chloramine can result in an ammonia reading, is what I'm saying. The API test kit is notorious for not distinguishing ammonnium from ammonia.

    In other words, your positive readings can be CAUSED by the chloramines being broken down by the water conditioner. Since you know you have chloramines, it will be unlikely you will -ever- get a 0 on your ammonia readings with the API test kit. Its why I suggested Seachem's test kit, while more complicated, distinguishes between the two so you know your tank is safe for fish.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  10. #10

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Does Seachem sell just the ammonia kit? Test kits can be kind of expensive. I'm happy to get one, I just don't have much spare cash.
    I hate hearing people say "it's only a $3/$5/$1 fish/shrimp, so it's ok if it dies, I can just get another." It's still an animal! All animals should be treated like they're worth $10,000.
    29 sw: Damsel, shrimpgoby, pistol shrimp, waspfish
    65 fw: Rummies, glowlight tetras, pencilfish, darters, ottos, f betta, goby, dwarf gourami, ninjas
    29 fw: Chili rasboras, pygmy cories, P. Gertrudae

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