Thread: Synspillum, Cory, Tetras
01-07-2014, 07:42 PM #21
Another point to remember is that the longer the lens, the faster the shutter speed needs to be to prevent blur from handshake. Image stabilization is not sufficient at the slower shutter speeds when using a big lens.
01-07-2014, 08:01 PM #22
I've been using the 28-80...pretty much the same as the 18-55 (18-75 was a typ o oops..lol.) I only use the macro for "bugs" and 300 when outisde. I'll keep practicing..... I'll get there yet!!!
01-08-2014, 10:25 AM #23
The other trick that I use is the "pseudo HDR merge". It produces more accurate colours like so...
01-08-2014, 10:46 AM #24
01-08-2014, 11:09 AM #25
It basically uses a single RAW file from the camera and you artificially make about 3 pictures with different EV settings. Then you merge them into one picture. A true HDR means that you use the EV settings on the camera and take separate pics.
If you have an editing programme then there are usually tutorials on youtube on how to do it. I have Corel's Paint Shop Pro X2.
HDR stands for High Dynamic Range and to be honest, it can almost replicate how we physically see the image.
01-08-2014, 11:16 AM #26
I guess youtube would be really helpful...I do have image editing programs from both photoshop and arcsoft, but found the "file merging" rather confusing, so up to this point I take "80" shots...looking for that "one"....
01-08-2014, 11:53 AM #27
Well, the process looks a little like this:
Three images are artificially created from a single RAW file. The EV or brightness is changed in the RAW to JPG conversion.
Image 1 is set at -1.33
Image 2 is set at -0.67
Image 3 is set at 0
The images can then be "merged" using various processes from layering to a dedicated 'HDR Image Merge' feature. The clarity is set to 50/100 and I leave the brightness adjustment at 0.
The image will be further tweaked with regards to sharpness, contrast, noise reduction and will probably be cropped. The end result from this particular batch is...