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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Strider199 View Post
    Having 0ppm Nitrates could mean you have a very clean tank.
    Do you read any Ammonia and/or Nitrites when you do a test(before a partial water change)?
    Thank you for responding.

    Ammonia, yes -- usually around .15 ppm, on rare occasions up around .20 or .25. No nitrites or nitrates, and I do an analysis almost every day.

    I usually change 1 gallon of water per day, although during the ich infestation increased that to 2 gallons most days (in a 36 gallon tank).

  2. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by vinlyn View Post
    Thank you for responding.

    Ammonia, yes -- usually around .15 ppm, on rare occasions up around .20 or .25. No nitrites or nitrates, and I do an analysis almost every day.

    I usually change 1 gallon of water per day, although during the ich infestation increased that to 2 gallons most days (in a 36 gallon tank).
    Okay. Guess one of us should have asked about your water changes a LONG time ago. In a 36 gallon tank, for weekly maintenance, you should change out around 50% or 18 gallons per week.
    Fresh water in large quantities is ALWAYS good for the fish. Water changes in smaller quantities do little good as fish need fresh water. based on your schedule, you're only changing out 7 gallons a week. Not enough.

    Since you're not yet at the maintenance stage, the amount of water you change out now depends on the amount of ammonia you are experiencing.
    IE: if your API liquid ammonia reading show's 1 ppm ammonia, then you should change around 75% of your water to get the ammonia down to .25 ppm which is your goal during cycling.

    I would not mess with the online calculator. Rely on the readings from your API test kit.

    Also watch your nitrItes during this period of time. Any time either nitrites or ammonia approach .50 do at least a 50% water change. Make certain the water you add is t he same temp as your tank water and add enough water conditioner to treat the entire 36 gallons.

    And another note: are you by any chance messing with your filter media? (the floss or bio balls or sponge?) During a cycle you should never touch any of your media (no matter what the MFG suggests) That media is where all your beneficial bacteria grows and colonizes. The BB will keep your ammonia and nitrites at 0 as long as you leave it alone. If you've ever once changed it out for new or rinsed it out in tape water, you have killed your BB and that's why you're still cycling.

    Let us know if that created more questions



    Hope this helps
    Last edited by fishmommie; 01-08-2014 at 05:31 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  3. #13

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by fishmommie View Post
    Okay. Guess one of us should have asked about your water changes a LONG time ago. In a 36 gallon tank, for weekly maintenance, you should change out around 50% or 18 gallons per week.
    Fresh water in large quantities is ALWAYS good for the fish. Water changes in smaller quantities do little good as fish need fresh water. based on your schedule, you're only changing out 7 gallons a week. Not enough.

    Since you're not yet at the maintenance stage, the amount of water you change out now depends on the amount of ammonia you are experiencing.
    IE: if your API liquid ammonia reading show's 1 ppm ammonia, then you should change around 75% of your water to get the ammonia down to .25 ppm which is your goal during cycling.

    I would not mess with the online calculator. Rely on the readings from your API test kit.

    Also watch your nitrItes during this period of time. Any time either nitrites or ammonia approach .50 do at least a 50% water change. Make certain the water you add is t he same temp as your tank water and add enough water conditioner to treat the entire 36 gallons.

    And another note: are you by any chance messing with your filter media? (the floss or bio balls or sponge?) During a cycle you should never touch any of your media (no matter what the MFG suggests) That media is where all your beneficial bacteria grows and colonizes. The BB will keep your ammonia and nitrites at 0 as long as you leave it alone. If you've ever once changed it out for new or rinsed it out in tape water, you have killed your BB and that's why you're still cycling.

    Let us know if that created more questions



    Hope this helps
    All comments help me learn, so thank you.

    I have never gotten above .25 ppm ammonia. Today, for example, after not changing any water yesterday I was at about .10 (and that is without the online calculator). Usually I am at .10-.15.

    I have never had any nitrites.

    I am using an Eheim canister filter, and no, it has not been touched since the original set up. I've read that I should plan on any cleaning until about the 3-4 month period, and then it's mostly to be cleaning out the gross material, but not really disturbing/rinsing the media.

  4. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by vinlyn View Post
    All comments help me learn, so thank you. I have never gotten above .25 ppm ammonia. Today, for example, after not changing any water yesterday I was at about .10 (and that is without the online calculator). Usually I am at .10-.15. I have never had any nitrites.

    I am using an Eheim canister filter, and no, it has not been touched since the original set up. I've read that I should plan on any cleaning until about the 3-4 month period, and then it's mostly to be cleaning out the gross material, but not really disturbing/rinsing the media.
    Sounds like you have it under control then. Don't change your water again until ammonia goes above .25. let that bacteria grow in your filter media. Then, as said before, when it approaches .50, do a 50% water change. BTW - BB does not live in the water. It only lives in your filter media + a smaller amount in your substrate and on your decorations. So don't vac your substrate during this time either. You don't have enough fish in the tank to create much waste so leave it be. You can give it a good vac after the tank is cycled.

    How is the ich coming? Remember to keep up the treatment a solid 7 days AFTER you've seen the last spot.

    And I still don't understand how you're getting .10 ppm and .15 ppm readings on ammonia? Are you 'guesstimating' based on the color being lighter than .25ppm?
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  5. #15

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by fishmommie View Post
    Sounds like you have it under control then. Don't change your water again until ammonia goes above .25. let that bacteria grow in your filter media. Then, as said before, when it approaches .50, do a 50% water change. BTW - BB does not live in the water. It only lives in your filter media + a smaller amount in your substrate and on your decorations. So don't vac your substrate during this time either. You don't have enough fish in the tank to create much waste so leave it be. You can give it a good vac after the tank is cycled.

    How is the ich coming? Remember to keep up the treatment a solid 7 days AFTER you've seen the last spot.

    And I still don't understand how you're getting .10 ppm and .15 ppm readings on ammonia? Are you 'guesstimating' based on the color being lighter than .25ppm?

    I haven't been vacuuming...in fact, that's a good question...when needed, how do I clean sand? I do have a vacuum, but I tried it once and just got a swirl of black sand.

    I have not seen any sign of ich in the past 2-3 days. Remaining fish appear healthy and are back to swimming and acting fairly normally (although the blood fin tetras never appeared affected, not did the cory cats or oto).

    Yes, guesstimating. For example, yesterday when I said it was .10, it was pretty close to perfectly yellow, but not exactly. A few days ago it was sliding more toward the green of .25, but not there yet, so I guesstimated .20. I have a background in science, and I know this type of test is not exact.

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by vinlyn View Post
    I haven't been vacuuming...in fact, that's a good question...when needed, how do I clean sand? I do have a vacuum, but I tried it once and just got a swirl of black sand.
    Good question. I don't have sand bottoms. I have soil and it's planted so I rarely vac. When I do, I just touch lightly on the surface to snag the "poo". I'm betting someone with sand bottoms can chime in here and help.

    I have not seen any sign of ich in the past 2-3 days. Remaining fish appear healthy and are back to swimming and acting fairly normally (although the blood fin tetras never appeared affected, not did the cory cats or oto).
    Great. They probably are over it BUT, the ich spores will still be in the tank for at least 7 days after they fall off the fish. That's why you want to keep up treatment long after you see the last spot. If you don't, you're almost guaranteed to get another outbreak.
    Yes, guesstimating. For example, yesterday when I said it was .10, it was pretty close to perfectly yellow, but not exactly. A few days ago it was sliding more toward the green of .25, but not there yet, so I guesstimated .20. I have a background in science, and I know this type of test is not exact.
    Got cha........
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

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