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Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1

    Default Aftermath of Ich


    0 Not allowed!
    After almost 3 months of starting the hobby, I had my first fish disease to deal with -- Ich (white spot).

    I couldn't believe how fast it happened. One day everything seemed fine, the next day significant infection. I treated with API Liquid Super Ick Cure, although at half the dose since the tank is primarily tetras with a couple of cory catfish, and I raised the temperature to 82.

    The different tetras were very differently affected. The black neons had it worst, and they have all died. The x-ray pristillas were next, 50% death rate. The Von Rio Tetras were affected, but seem to be beginning to recover. The Bloodfin Tetras act unaffected. The Glow Light Tetras had some Ich spots, but are acting only slightly affected. The cory cats and algae eaters act unaffected.

    Here are my questions:

    I assume that after the epidemic, the remaining fish aren't going to look immediately normal. Is that correct? Should I be using Melafix or Pimafix at some point? Or some other med?

    How do I know the epidemic is actually over?

    Not that I'm in any hurry, but how soon is safe to restock the tank.

    Some other details: 36 gallon tank, used Safestart to cycle the tank. Ph = 7.8, ammonia is at reasonable level using the online calculator, nitrites and nitrates are at 0. Using an eheim 2215 filter.

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Dose for as long as the medication calls for. The spots should be completely gone for about 2 weeks.

    Don't restock your tank until you are fully cycled...you aren't even close yet. You HAVE to have nitrates to claim your tank is cycled. I would wager that the die off wasn't just ich related...though that didn't help.

    No need to add any additional meds...just make sure you don't have carbon in your filter and do large water changes with dechlorinated, temped water.

    What do you consider "reasonable" ammonia? Anything over .25ppm is super toxic.
    20 gallon with a male betta, neons, glowlights, and red cherry shrimp. (work in progess) Recently added a few LIVE plants and driftwood, Woooohoooo!

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Using the online calculator, I am at .15ppm, sometimes less.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    A little further from sanity
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    Thank again!! You seem to enjoy your coffee. - steeler58 Thanks for the rep!! - Compass this doesnt look like pie... not the right kind.. - Sandz for providing solid guidance to others - RiversGirl Thanks for the rep! :) - Compass 
    cheers - Fishhook Using up my winnings on my friends! - Compass No Message - Fishhook beeeeeeeer! - Sandz Bottoms up! (even though you don't drink, lol) - Slaphppy7 

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    How do you use an online calculator to find out how much ammonia is in your tank? Do you have a test kit?
    Treat for ich at least a week AFTER the spots are gone.
    Do not add any fish in your tank until ammonia and nitrites read 0ppm. The only reasonable level for both is 0ppm. Safestart will not cycle a tank, it may help to reduce stress but that is debatable. The only thing that will cycle a tank is ammonia, either from your fish or from a bottle. Since you are obviously cycling with fish you need to monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily and keep those levels down to less toxic levels for your fish. If you don't have a test kit of your own I suggest you get one and keep the ammonia and eventually the nitrite levels under .25ppm.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, I use one of the API test kits. My ammonia -- just using the test kit -- has consistently stayed between .10 - .20, usually around .15, and never higher than .20. This is the online calculator: http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/C...reeAmmonia.php

    Now I am confused. Azurescriber just said I had to have nitrates, and you say they have to be zero. My nitrates did spike one day, and then went back to 0. My tank is now 9-10 weeks old.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
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    Awards Showcase

    Thanks!!! - steeler58 Happy Mother's Day! - Slaphppy7 For 7,000 posts!! - steeler58 Thanks for the rep!! - steeler58 For working with new fish keepers! Outstanding this month. - Taurus 
    Just Because - Surfdog A round for the fallen this Memorial Day weekend. - Compass I had no cup, so I put it on a bun... - Slaphppy7 You are amazing! So smart and giving. - SeaLady Can't give you any more rep, but well said! - steeler58 
    Thank again!! You seem to enjoy your coffee. - steeler58 Thanks for the rep!! - Compass this doesnt look like pie... not the right kind.. - Sandz for providing solid guidance to others - RiversGirl Thanks for the rep! :) - Compass 
    cheers - Fishhook Using up my winnings on my friends! - Compass No Message - Fishhook beeeeeeeer! - Sandz Bottoms up! (even though you don't drink, lol) - Slaphppy7 

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ammonia and nitrite need to be 0ppm and some nitrate needs to be present in order for a tank to be cycled. Sorry for the confusion.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    It sounds like the tank isn't cycled.

    When I first started I thought I was correctly cycled, but I wasn't. I also got whitespot and several fish died ... In retrospect it was nothing to do with the whitespot. Several months later, I got whitespot agai - same treatment, everything survived. I think it was just that my water parameters were now more favourable to survival.

    The most important lesson I learned? Never go back to that LFS as both times I got fish there I had whitespot a few days later!
    55g planted: 10x adult guppies + fry, 8x kuhli loaches, 7x black neons, 4x neons, 6x Amano shrimp, assassin snails & cherry shrimp

    10g planted: Bael the betta, 2x Indian glassfish & Pops the purple Apple snail

  8. Default


    2 Not allowed!
    sorry about your problems.
    word of caution. never use heat AND medication. It's either or. That might have contributed to your deaths.
    I've had ich in my tank twice. the first time, I panicked and didn't leave the heat up long enough. Hence, the second outbreak.
    The second time I used only heat (86F). When I saw the last spot, I counted 7 more days before I started gradually reducing the heat. lost no fish and have not had an outbreak since.
    good luck
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by fishmommie View Post
    sorry about your problems.
    word of caution. never use heat AND medication. It's either or. That might have contributed to your deaths.
    I've had ich in my tank twice. the first time, I panicked and didn't leave the heat up long enough. Hence, the second outbreak.
    The second time I used only heat (86F). When I saw the last spot, I counted 7 more days before I started gradually reducing the heat. lost no fish and have not had an outbreak since.
    good luck
    Thank you for that info, although I followed the directions which said heat (82) and meds, which resulted in more fish deaths. However, the ich seems to be gone. All my blood fin tetras lived (and were seemingly unaffected), half of my glow light tetras lived, my oto and catfish also continue as if nothing ever happened.

    I am frustrated that after 9 weeks my tank is still apparently not cycled (since I have no nitrates).

    Ah well. Live and learn.

  10. #10

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Having 0ppm Nitrates could mean you have a very clean tank.
    Do you read any Ammonia and/or Nitrites when you do a test(before a partial water change)?
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

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