Results 71 to 77 of 77
12-29-2013, 08:39 PM #71
I think after these 2 failed attempts and with 4 ppm ammonia in your tap water you're going to have to use RO/DI water not just RO as its the DI part that removes the ammonia. You shouldn't be drinking or using water with 4 ppm ammonia anyway.
12-29-2013, 09:57 PM #72
And just to add a little more to the above, if you use pure RO/DI water with 0 TDS (minerals) in it, you will also need to add back the proper mineral to allow give you a stable pH. Without those minerals, your pH will become unstable which is not good for your fish. A product like the below is a simple and easy way to do that.
As a alternative, you could mix the RO/DI water 50/50 with your tap water as well and aviod the need for any other products.
Last edited by Cliff; 12-29-2013 at 10:00 PM.If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]
12-30-2013, 12:32 PM #73
Ugh-we are going to overwhelm you with information!
Sorry but I have read (a peer reviewed scientific research paper) on the proper ammonia level for cycling a filter and 1 ppm is considered ideal because higher levels of ammonia prevent the bacteria that convert nitrite into nitrate from growing well; besides being your exact problem (nitrite spikes!) your waterr already has 4 ppm ammonium so, exactly why do you need to add any ammonia? A bio-filter treats ammonium exactly like ammonia (chemically, a bit different but not to the bacteria.)
Adding store bought water would help BUT gets costly in time. Also, ammonia chips may or may not work with ammonium (easy to test - just see if your tank's total ammonia level falls within 12 hours to near zero with the chips in.) But to cycle? OK for fishless but not if you have fish due to cost ... .
You posted your pH once but what of the tap water pH? (sorry for this next part) IF your tap water is soft, than within two days the tank pH can change a lot compared to the tap pH. That also can kill fish (yes, my tap water is ultra soft and within two days my tap/tank differ by more than 0.25 pH.) However, daily small or large water changes with keep the two pH's very close ... .
Your best course of action would be to just continue with your filter cycle. There are methods to remove/clean tap water (i.e. preteat the water using various methods in a seperate larger tank and only using that water) but that is a bit much for any beginner (extra cost, work, space) and the last thing anyone just starting needs to deal with. Having such a high ammonium level in the tap is a major issue that few here have ever dealt with and that is gonna make cycling any filter very difficult. Just gonna need extra time and effort doing what you have been (but don't add ammonia) and waiting a few more weeks cycling; the required nitrite converting bacteria will grow in time.
Sorry, I do not believe there is any simple solution for your problem (yes, store bought water is ideal but due to cost/extra work is a lot to ask anyone to do.)
For details on cycling a good site to read is:
Best of luck!
12-30-2013, 03:21 PM #74
0Thanks for the info and the link, Cermet.
To your other question, my tap pH is about 7.6 and my tank tests an unchanged pH 48 hours after a 90% PWC. Not sure how it tests further out from a change because I haven't been testing it regularly.
I'm just going to continue with a fishless cycle and build up the BB. If I can't make this work with my tap water as-is then I either need to be content with maybe a 10-gallon tank or let it go and pursue a different hobby.Attitude is everything.
40 gallon FW tank: Black sand substrate, lots of live plants,
13 long-finned zebra danios, 11 neon tetras, 6 platys, cherry shrimp and 6 nerite snails.
12-30-2013, 03:47 PM #75
12-30-2013, 05:19 PM #76
Have you considered an RO/DI system for your home? This would benefit all your water needs, including your aquarium. As Cliff stated, you could use 50% tap water and 50% RO/DI water for your tank.
12-30-2013, 06:39 PM #77
Your pH is very good - 7.6 allows better bacteria growth than lower values. The issue is that the ammonium level is high causing slow growth of bacteria that convert nitrite - just a fact you will have to live with until the filter cycles (could be a few more weeks.) Just do what you are doing - either do small water changes to feed the bacteria aiming for a ammonium level of 1 - 2 ppm or allow the tank's ammonium level to fall to zero and than feed ammonia again aiming for 1 - 2 ppm.
If the pH does not change after 48 hours, that means it isn't extremely soft (but still could be in the low range. ) Still, not much of an issue. Give it a week of no water changes (if you feed the bacteria with ammonia) and see if it falls (if so, water is on the soft side); otherwise, it isn't.
Best of luck but for now, ignore nitrate level and watch the nitrites.
Last edited by Cermet; 12-30-2013 at 06:41 PM.