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Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19
  1. Default Blue Green Algae...WTH Happened?


    0 Not allowed!
    Hello Everyone!

    I am fairly new to aquariums, I got my first tank back in May. My wife has over 20 years of experience, but she has given me this tank so I get to bump my head and learn as I go.

    The tank is a 55g. It has a Fluval 304, heater, and UV sterilizer in it. To control current in the tank, the UV sterilizer is on the opposite side of the tank as the output for the filter. The tank is heavily planted, has driftwood in it, and a sand base. The driftwood is all from another tank with exception of one piece which we found in a stream quite some time ago. Before it was introduced into a tank it was dried out, baked, boiled, then introduced to the tank. It spent over a year in another tank but never sunk. That tank was torn down and it is now in this tank. We had to tie it down in the tank with fishing line. Since then I have been combating blue green algae, primarily on the driftwood in the tank, however it is beginning to spread to some of the plants.

    Chemistry in the tank when last tested was nearly 0ppm across the board (before a water change). I realize this is fairly clean and tanks do better when they have some elements in the water....It doesn't seem to dirty much, even after a 6 weeks without a water change.

    Inhabitants in the tank include a bamboo shrimp, two snails, 2 L144 plecos, 2 black angels, several cherry barbs, an opaline gourami, several neon tetras, an otocinclus, 3 corys, and I'm sure something I've forgotten to mention.

    To treat the blue green algae, I have heard barley extract will do it, hydrogen peroxide (though it will kill crustaceans), or a black out....Does anyone have any experience with any of them? Or any other suggestions? There are other tanks the crustaceans and move too if necessary, however, I would prefer not too. I prefer natural remedies. I try to balance the tank and keep it clean with shrimp, other bottom feeders, plants, etc.

    Any input is greatly appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Andrew

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I battled blue green algae too a little while back, and couldn't shake it. I then used this product http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171146810763?lpid=82
    I had no problem with BGA after the use of this product, and it didn't kill any of my tank inhabitants. I highly recommend it, it's well worth the money. Others can vouch for it too. Good luck
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Greentoads41 View Post
    I battled blue green algae too a little while back, and couldn't shake it. I then used this product http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171146810763?lpid=82
    I had no problem with BGA after the use of this product, and it didn't kill any of my tank inhabitants. I highly recommend it, it's well worth the money. Others can vouch for it too. Good luck
    Thank you very much, I will have to get some ordered and on the way! I don't know that I need a 125 gallon treatment, but a little extra never hurts! Especially for that price! :)

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If anyone else is looking for this product as well, it appears to be slightly cheaper off amazon and includes free shipping as well!

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Automaton25 View Post
    Thank you very much, I will have to get some ordered and on the way! I don't know that I need a 125 gallon treatment, but a little extra never hurts! Especially for that price! :)
    Lol I know, I haven't used all of mine either. However, I did misread the directions and severely overdose my 10 gallon...luckily no organisms were harmed! Oops...
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  6. #6

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Blue-green algae (Cyanobacteria) is actual a bacteria and not algae. Most of the commonly used ant-bacteria meds will also work very well to get rid of it. Which ever product you use, just keep in mind you are using a type of medication to the tank so you will have to remove any carbon (if you are using some) and it would also be a good idea to have some extra oxygenation in the tank as well

    I would also suggest you might want to try to find the cause of the Cyanobacteria in your tank or it might return again
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  7. #7

    Join Date
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    After six weeks with no water changes and having zero nitrates sounds hard to believe; without a nitrate reactor (deep sand can do some of that ) that just seems too low; as such, the nitrate test kit may not be accurate. The reason the nitrates are most likely not zero is because blue-green so-called algae grows best with extra nitrates and, to a lesser extent, high phosphates (above 0.2 ppm.) So, it sounds like you need to up your water changes and confirm that your test kit is working relative to nitrates (of course, with a working bio-filter ammonia and nitrites will be zero; phosphates are never zero unless you do daily near 100% water changes.)

    ASide: I too had blue/green issues and my nitrates rarely went above 3 ppm. Once I got my nitrates under 0.2 ppm and phosphates under 0.01 ppm (lower than needed) I've never seen BG algae since.

    Finally, using meds is always a bad idea unless you also deal with the cause; otherwise, it comes back. Water changes will always be the best choice in the long run once you have removed the BG algae.
    Last edited by Cermet; 11-21-2013 at 07:53 AM.

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I too noticed off the bat the lack of nitrates. Since you stated in your first post you are new at this, I am curious as to if you are shaking bottle two on the test hard for sixty seconds before testing. If you don't, nitrates will read zero, when they actually could be quite high.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You also have to keep in mind that algae will use up nitrates almost instantly, almost as quickly as beneficial bacteria will consume ammonia and nitrites.

    That is why you can never trust a nitrate test result from a aquarium that has a very bad algae problem. The test results will lead you to believe your set-up is not producing a lot of nitrates when in fact it is. The algae is just removing some of it too fast to show up in a test result.

    This is why algae scrubbers are still somewhat popular in marine aquariums.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I used the blue green algae killer, dosed twice per directions....Absolutely no change....I blacked out for 4 days....No change in anything....and have done water changes...cross referencing to pictures from google, it appears it is not blue green algae....What I have is growing on my plants and drift wood and is quite literally a dark teal...Not the bright green blue green algae appears to be...It's about 1/4" long and only grows on things, it is not floating around. Attempts to scrape it off the driftwood are nearly futile, though it comes off the glass...

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