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Thread: ...no bio filter (help)
11-04-2013, 05:44 AM #1
...no bio filter (help)
I made a big mistake , I have a tank setup using my filters I had already had from a few years back in a feederfish tank , its 2 hob filters that I had stashed away in a closet, I put them all back together after cleaning them with bleach and rinsing them but I just realized recently they didn't have the bio sponge anymore, I hadn't noticed when I was setting them up . the tank has been up for 2-3 months at the least. I already have a few fish in it (see bottom)
I am going tomorrow morning to get some bio sponges if it will help, I dont have any tests to test nitrate so I have been playing it safe and doing water changes once every two days since I realized I had no bio sponge
second peice of info,
my lfs called and told me the fish I have been asking for came in (blue ram), I was hoping to pick it and a few ember tetras up this wed hopefully before they are taken,
so my questions are
is there BB in my tank even though I haven't had a bio sponge in the filters? I have had the same pad cartridge with carbon in it the whole time, I just been rinsing them.
if I get a bio sponge how long will it take for the bacteria to grow in it?
I am ordering an entirely new filter (canister) which will be here by the 10th, once it is here and I remove the HOB filters, would adding the existing bio sponge(that I will be getting tomorrow morning) into the canister help aid the bacteria to grow in the new filter?
should I be doing water changes every day or every other day once the new fish/canister filter comes so the nitrate etc doesnt spike?
its a 40gallon tank
inhabitants, 1gold ram 1 pleco, 2 ember tetras, live plants
Last edited by Ras; 11-04-2013 at 05:49 AM.
11-04-2013, 07:05 AM #2
These bacteriia do house on all kind of media in your filter. Sponges and keramic aso have one use : providing a big surface for there bacteria. The total build up will last about 3 weeks (only than your tank ik cycled). WC's din't have to do with biosponges, but with ammonia / nitrite building up because bacteria for nitrification aren't there yet. When a new filter is used it has to cycle again !!! Use this one for some time besides the old cycled one or place media from the old in the new one. NEVER clean / rinse your filter roughly after atarting to use it, cause you than have to cycle it again !!! Carefull rinsing (in a bucket with old tankwater fi will do. I'd change the carbon for sponges or ceramic or so. Cheers AadNo Cory, No Glory !!
11-04-2013, 03:11 PM #3
thanks, if anyone else can help answer its greatly appreciated
Last edited by Ras; 11-04-2013 at 03:14 PM.
11-04-2013, 03:53 PM #4
You will have some BB in your substrate and on your decor and plants and in the pads with the carbon. Without an API liquid master water test kit, there is no way to know if your tank is cycled at this point. You need to get one asap. If that's not possible, take a tank water sample into your LFS and have them test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. If your readings are 0,0, 10 or more, you're cycled. If the readings show any ammonia and or nitrites, you're still in the process of cycling.
In any event, since you're getting a new canister in a week, DO keep the HOB's running for at least a month until the canister is properly seeded. And I'd go ahead and add the sponges to the HOB. You can always transfer the seeded sponges to the canister after a month or so when they are seeded.
If the LFS can hold on to the rams I'd do that. Blue rams are very sensitive and require a well established tank - which yours doesn't appear to be.
You've been spot on doing all those water changes. You may still be doing them for a while as your canister filter media gets colonized with BB. Oh, and I wouldn't touch those filter pads or the new sponges or any of the media in the canister for at least 2 months. Don't rinse or clean them. Give that BB a good chance to get well established. When the time comes to rinse them, do it gently in old tank water, never tap water as the chlorine in the tap water will kill all the BB you've worked so hard to grow.
Hope that made sense. Good luck
Last edited by fishmommie; 11-04-2013 at 03:56 PM.
11-04-2013, 04:39 PM #5
ty that made perfect sense
so if my lfs cant hold the fish is there any way I could still pick them up, or atleast the ram
like if i kept doing water changes?
and what if the water tests that it had cycled , would that be ok to then add fish even in though the sponges aren't seeded?
oh and Ill have the test kit by 6pm tonight pacific time
I did a water change yesterday so would the reading on the test be accurate? for example if it says 0 no2 etc is there a chance that is because of the water changes
Last edited by Ras; 11-04-2013 at 04:45 PM.
11-04-2013, 04:57 PM #6
11-04-2013, 05:08 PM #7
tyvm for the help
11-04-2013, 11:38 PM #8
successfully got them to hold my fish w.o selling them for 30 days then they will go up for sale if I can't take them
ok so test the water everyday
how High should the ammonia and nitrate before I do a water change? or should I just stick with every day water changes for the full month
I read a few cycling articles and I just get confused
11-05-2013, 12:03 AM #9
Test every day and don't let the ammonia or nitrite get above .25ppm. With fish already in the tank you may need to test more than once a day and change water more than once daily.When I go fishing I just throw sharp rocks in the water and wait for the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
Everything happens for a reason. Sometimes that reason is you are stupid and make bad decisions.
I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
A moderator on a fish forum should be able to identify an oscar... Don't you think?
Dear naps, sorry I hated you so much when I was a child... Love me
11-05-2013, 12:05 AM #10
LOL. So you're happy :o0)
Let's keep it simple. Any day that either Ammonia or Nitrites or both approach .50ppm, do a water change to get it down to .25ppm. You may or may not see nitrAtes yet. As long as they are under 20ppm, don't worry about it.
On the day (and it will come) that you test your water and see 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites, your tank is cycled. From then on all you have to do is keep the nitrAtes under 20. Weekly water changes of around 50% should handle that.
PS it seems mommy1 and I were posting at the same time :o)
Last edited by fishmommie; 11-05-2013 at 12:19 AM.