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Thread: Platy - Ich?

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  1. #1

    Exclamation Platy - Ich?


    0 Not allowed!
    Tank Info
    - Liters: 60lt
    - Filtration: 1 * Resun Magi 200, 1 * Hailea HL-BT400
    - History: New Tank 50 days.
    - Fish: 4 * Platy, 4 * Angel Fish, 2 * Plecostomus
    - Feeding, water change: Feeding 2 times per day. Cleaning ground every week, Cleaning filters every 2 weeks, 20% water change every 2 weeks.

    Water
    - PH: 7,9
    - KH: 15o dKH
    - GH: >14o dGH
    - ΝΗ3/NH4: -
    - ΝΟ2: 0 / OK
    - ΝΟ3: 100
    - Temp: 27 degrees celcius
    - Mesures using Strips: Aquavital Multitest 6in1 http://www.aquarium-...itest-6in1.html

    General Info
    White Marks only appear on Platy. During feeding they eat normaly. For 2 days now the stay still in the bottom but when I approach the tank or feed them they act normaly for a few minutes.Attachment 30772Attachment 30773Attachment 30774Attachment 30775Attachment 30776Attachment 30772Attachment 30773Attachment 30774Attachment 30775Attachment 30776
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Exclamation


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, that is ich. Immediately raise the temperature to 30-32C (86F up to 90F) which is OK for these fish. Since you are at 27C (80F) now, I would partly achieve this via a major water change now, adding warmer water up to 30C/86F. Maintain the higher temperature until all spots are gone from the fish, and then another week. No other medication is needed.

    Another serious issue here is your nitrate (NO3) which is 100, presumably that is 100 ppm. That is very high; nitrate should always be kept below 20ppm, and preferably never above 10ppm.

    Have you tested your tap water alone for nitrate? It is necessary to determine if any is arriving via tap water, or solely within the tank, as the approaches to lower is a bit different.

    Assuming this is solely within the tank (tap water being zero nitrate when tested), the major water change above will help here too. Do a good vacuum, getting down into the gravel, to remove as much detritus as possible during the water change. Reduce feeding, as the less food in, the less waste and thus less organics for nitrates. No more than once a day, and just enough to provide a flake to two per fish (what they eat). Alternate days will be OK too.

    Beyond the immediate, water changes should be no less than half the tank volume every week. Don't overfeed. Live plants help, something as simple as floating plants which are easy to maintain and which remove a lot of nutrients (ammonia especially so it doesn't get through to becoming nitrate).

    Filter cleanings weekly are fine, meaning to rinse the media. Do this is a pail of water drawn from the tank during the water change to avoid killing bacteria. This won't matter once the tank is established and balanced, but in this present case of overstocking and such high nitrates, you need to take precautions.

    You also need to remove some fish, as this tank is way overstocked and this is likely part of the nitrate issue. A 60 liter is 15 gallons, and that is not anywhere near sufficient for even one angelfish as it grows, much less four of them. And the plecostomus, what species? The "common" pleco easily reaches 18 inches and is a major polluter even in large tanks. The smaller species, like Bristlenose, only attain 4-5 inches but even so they produce a lot of waste, and only one in this small a tank is advisable.

    Nitrates this high may well be part of the ich problem, as the fish will be under stress from nitrate poisoning. Ich is caused by stress, period; the protozoan may be present (it usually is in most tanks) but good water conditions and healthy fish can fight it off. But won't here.

    Let us know if anything is unclear, or you need more help.

    Byron.
    Last edited by Byron; 11-02-2013 at 08:01 PM.

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi and thank you for the fast reply. I already raised the temp to 30C. Do I have to add salt as I read to other posts?

    I took sample from the water supply.
    Here are the results:

    Water
    - PH: 8,0
    - KH: 20o dKH
    - GH: >14o dGH
    - ΝΗ3/NH4: -
    - ΝΟ2: 0 / OK
    - ΝΟ3: 25
    - CL2: 0

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Don't add salt, maintain the higher temp until the spots are gone, and then KEEP that higher temp for another week, as advised...when you finally lower the temp, do it gradually
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal

    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thank you very much for your help. Hope my fish gets better day by day.

    I clean the gravel once per week using a vacuum from Sera which is connected with the air pump and the water is being filtered and goes back into the tank.

    What can I do to improve my water. Should I remove the Pleco and get a Bristlenose just for the algae cleanup?

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by dkatsariotis View Post
    Thank you very much for your help. Hope my fish gets better day by day.

    I clean the gravel once per week using a vacuum from Sera which is connected with the air pump and the water is being filtered and goes back into the tank.

    What can I do to improve my water. Should I remove the Pleco and get a Bristlenose just for the algae cleanup?
    This may be a problem. A water change removes the tank water completely, and then you replace it with fresh. There is no filter that can do as well as a complete change, so while the detritus may be removed, the water is still holding pathogens, pheromones, etc. Maybe someone else knows how this particular unit works and can advise, but I would suggest a complete water change of half the tank volume rather than re-using the water.

    On the pleco, I wold not add a Bristlenose or any other fish. This tank is way overstocked, and as I mentioned previously the pleco fish all add a lot to the bioload. Algae can be handled other ways, we can discuss but after the initial problems of ich and nitrates and fishload are resolved.

    Byron.

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Agree. The high temp will kill the ich. Plus, salt is very detrimental (internally) to angelfish and pleco. And externally, I have known aquarists who have literally burned the skin off pleco with salt.

    With nitrate at 25ppm in the source water, this is something that should be dealt with down the road [the ich is first]. I have not had this problem, but others have, and I will leave it to them to offer suggestions. There are filtering products to deal with nitrate. The main thing is to get rid of the other 75ppm which is obviously occurring within the tank as I previously explained.

    Byron.

  8. #8

    Default


    3 Not allowed!
    and don't forget to add extra aeration to the tank. it is small, very heavily stocked. that already reduces the amount of oxygen. increasing the temperature further reduces this amount as warm water hold less. an air pump and airstone should do the job, or if you have a hang-on-back filter, drop the water level or somehow raise the filter to get more splash.

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    White marks are getting multiplied. And even many times Platies are moving and eat they spend more time at the gravel and seem very weak. How long will it take before something good starts happening?
    Dimitris

  10. Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by dkatsariotis View Post
    White marks are getting multiplied. And even many times Platies are moving and eat they spend more time at the gravel and seem very weak. How long will it take before something good starts happening?
    The fish don't feel well, that's why they are inactive.
    How long have you had the heat at a steady 86F? It generally takes 5 - 7 days for the spots to all drop off.
    You must remember that ich generally starts in the gills and we don't see it. Once it appears on the body, the protozoan is well established and can be lethal. I hope it's not the case, but you may still lose some fish to this horrible bug.
    Fingers crossed that all will go well.
    Last edited by fishmommie; 11-04-2013 at 03:01 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

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