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Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. Default Which fertilizer/s should I use?


    0 Not allowed!
    At the moment im dosing JBL Ferapol once a week, but I find some plants especially ones with red leaves dont seem to last very long (things like val's, dwarf sag's, dwarf crypts, etc do fine). I was wondering which fertz I should use so the majority of plants will do ok in my tank? Im not dosing co2 as in my experience all it does is make the plants grow faster!

    I was looking at Seachem Flourish and possibly seachem potassium, would these be enough to keep a healthy planted tank?


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  2. #2

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Most red leaf type plants require high lighting. What type of lighting are you using?
    When I was using Seachem Flourish I noticed my giant val's melted away so be careful.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Strider199 View Post
    Most red leaf type plants require high lighting. What type of lighting are you using?
    When I was using Seachem Flourish I noticed my giant val's melted away so be careful.
    Ah right, I thought it was iron they needed?

    I believe they are JBL Arcadia T5 lights, colour at the front and natural at the back.

    Ive seen a few others say Flourish melted their vals, though I thought it was the excel that did it?


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    The plants would probably do well with a combination of fertilizers. I buy fertilizers in powder form, much cheaper that way, last a long time. http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html is one site that sells ferts. Also I would look at putting in some fertilizer tablets into the substrate. Some plants benefit more from fertilizers they get from their roots.

    How long is your lighting period? Plants losing their red color may be due to lighting. Also perhaps a deficiency of nutrients as well, such as iron.

  5. #5

    Join Date
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    Awards Showcase

    Thanks for the birthday wishes - mommy1 and gift - mommy1 Thanks for the rep - Cliff Thanks for the rep, have a cool one on me, Cheers - Cliff Thanks and a new fish for the tank - glarior 
    Thanks for the gorgeous slide show! - fishmommie Thanks for the rep the other day - Cliff It's a Sudbury Saturday Night, Cheers - Cliff Hockey finals can not be watched without a hockey pop or two - Cliff Thanks for the rep :) - Greentoads41 
    Thanks for the Rep!! - steeler1 Merry Christmas! - steeler1 Merry Christmas - Cliff May you be living as high as the holiday hog this coming year! - Trillianne Happy New Year - mommy1 
    Thank you for the birthday wishes. - mommy1 Thanks for the Rep!! - steeler1 Have a Birthday fish!! - steeler1 Here you go sir, I just wish it had been a good game. - steeler1 Here's to one crummy Superbowl, lol! - Slaphppy7 
    Troop and Military Support - Amber Alert - Bladder Cancer - Endometriosis - Equality - Liver Cancer - Liver Disease - Missing Children - POW/MIA - Spina Bifida - Suicide - Strider199 

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    T5's are enough light for sure serbusfish.
    You are right it was the Seachem Flourish Excel that I was using. I have not tried the Seachem Flourish liquid fert.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Flourish Excel (glutaraldehyde 1.8%) functions as a chemical carbon source, actually a photosynthetic pathway intermediate chemical, but that's not important. Point is, Excel is not a fertilizer. It will kill some plants. Here is a list of plants I've killed with it:
    Vals, Elodea/Anacharis/(Egeria densa), Riccia, Java moss.
    Sometimes these plants do well with the chemical, or die back and recover, sometimes they don't recover...
    I recommend Flourish Comprehensive - that's the fertilizer. I use dry ferts in my CO2 tanks and the Flourish liquid for my low-tech tanks. I find the liquid less of a hassle to dose. For plants like swords, you'll also need to use root tablets every 3 months or so becasue they feed heavily from the roots, as was already mentioned. I use the Glutaraldehyde mix (I make my own) in one tank with medium light and I get very nice reds form my Kleiner bar swords and ok reds from my ozelot swords. In that tank I can't get much red from my stem plants, not enough light (single T5HO), but also no algae!
    Last edited by DKRST; 11-02-2013 at 12:11 AM.

  7. #7

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    As others have mentioned, it is primarily light intensity that is related to red-leaf plants. I will explain why.

    Plant leaves reflect light, and the light they reflect is the colour we perceive. So green-leaf plants reflect green light, red leaf reflect more red. Aquatic plants need red and blue light to drive photosynthesis. They also seem to use green, according to controlled tests confirming that with light primarily in the red, blue and green wavelengths the aquatic plants responded better. But the red leaf plants, to be "red," must reflect more red light, so this has the effect of reducing the plant's ability to photosynthesize, and of c ourse photosynthesis is what drives plant growth, reproduction, etc. Therefore, red-leaf plants need more intense light.

    I have a few red-leaf plants, and I have moderate light. This resuts in the red leaves being more reddish/brown, which is still a nice contrast to the green. I am in fact doing an experiement with increased iron in one tank, that has the red tiger lotus plants, to see if increasing iron does increase the red. Nothing else has been changed. So far, after 4 weeks, there has been no improvement. Which confirms the light issue as being prime.

    To the light/fertilizers in general, there has to be a balance. Too much light, or too much fertilizer without increasing light, will cause algae issues. Plants need a balance. And remember that CO2 (= carbon) is a major nutrient in this balance.

    My tanks are all low-tech or natural, meaning I do not add CO2 and I have moderate lighting. I also have mineral-poor water, the GH is near-zero, so I have a good recipe for nutrient fertilization. Nutrients occur in fish foods, which end up in the waste that is left in the substrate where bacteria break it down and plants use the resulting nutrients--which is also the major source of natural CO2. But depending upon the plant species, this may not be sufficient. This is where the prepared fertilizers are useful. I have now been using Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for five years, once a week, and it is completely sufficient to balance my light and the fish load. I also use the Flourish Tabs next to the larger swords (which are heavy feeders), aponogeton and tiger lotus.

    The dry preparations I have not bothered with, simply because I have success with Flourish and the large 2L jug costs me $30 (online, here in Canada) and lasts a year or just over, and the tabs cost me around $50 a year, so this cost is not something that drains my resources, and this is for 6-7 planted tanks. I also increase the "hard" minerals with Equilibrium (another Seachem product) in just two tanks, and this is to raise the GH from zero to around 5 dGH just for the larger swords. The smaller species like the chain swords in the other tanks grow well without this addition.

    The attached photo of my 70g is illustrative of the success of this method.

    Byron.

    70g Oct 17-13.jpg

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    DKRST, I am going to try the Flourish Comp, however at 10 a bottle its quite expensive so im not able to get some just yet as ive just bought a car But I will once my funds are a bit better.

    Thanks for the info Byron, I have T5 lighting which I was told by LFS would be good for red plants. She said if leaves are falling off rather than the plant going pale then its a nutrient deficiency..

    She recommended I try using Easy Life EasyCarbo with my JBL Ferropol as im not currently using Co2, has anyone used this before? Im worried about it hurting my dwarf frogs (and my Vals for that matter).


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    DKRST, I am going to try the Flourish Comp, however at 10 a bottle its quite expensive so im not able to get some just yet as ive just bought a car But I will once my funds are a bit better.
    Another identical product to Flourish Comprehensive is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. This may be less expensive for you, as you are in the UK. It is much the same complete nutrient liquid fertilizer. Remember with both of these, you use very little. I use 1 teaspoon for 60 gallons [= 227 liters] once a week.

    Thanks for the info Byron, I have T5 lighting which I was told by LFS would be good for red plants. She said if leaves are falling off rather than the plant going pale then its a nutrient deficiency..
    This may be. As I said before, it is all about balance, at whatever level.

    She recommended I try using Easy Life EasyCarbo with my JBL Ferropol as im not currently using Co2, has anyone used this before? Im worried about it hurting my dwarf frogs (and my Vals for that matter).
    I do not have experience with these products. JBL Ferropol, can you give me a link so I can see what this contains? As the EasyCarbo, I can't seem to find the ingredients, but I did find a warning by the British planted tank aquarist George Farmer that this product if overdosed will kill livestock, may harm some plants including Vallisneria, and invertebrates. From this I would assume it may contain glutaraldehyde, as Excel and API's CO2 Booster both do, and this stuff is highly toxic. It is used in hospitals to disinfect, in embalming fluid and in antifreeze, just to give you an idea of its potency. I would never add this to a tank with fish, regardless of what the manufacturers or anyone else recommends.

    Back to that balance, it is possible to have light and other nutrients balanced with the natural CO2 that occurs in any tank with fish and plants. My tanks are testament to this, I have never added any form of CO2 or so-called carbon supplements.

    Byron.

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