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Thread: First tank!

  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    From what you just wrote you have two major options that are going to be critical to your wallet or your fish... fish-in cycle which will make you change water pretty frequently until fully cycled, the next being return the fish and do full fishless cycle which is still ok with the plants in there and is faster, safer, and less stress on the fish.

  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    Finally getting back to this thread, and its several items. First, on the light, I will assume the tubes are T8 [it might say this in the printing at one end of the tube?] which is fine, but I would get new tubes. The best are those around 6500K, or between 5000K and 7000K. The "daylight" 6500K are ideal for plants, and they give a true rendition of colour. You could use Life-Glo T8 6700K tubes, or ZooMed's UltraSun T8 6500K. Just make sure they are T8, not T5. Get the same length as your present tubes (the tubes, not the tank).

    Second, place the light fixture on the tank frame. Suspended lights means that most of the light intensity is going off into space, not into the tank. It may seem like the tank is fairly well lit, but this is not the case. The light here is not especially intense (the tubes I suggest above will help this) and fluorescent tubes give off light in all directions. Also, you will find that viewing the tank with a light suspended will make it much harder to see the fish as the light shines into your eyes.

    Next issue is the clown loach. While Sandz is correct, this is never something I would advice. You need more of the loaches, and very small, to begin with. They will have to be moved. If they remain in the small space beyond what is best, they will start developing problems internally, and this is not something to risk. Also, they have been known to dig up plants; loaches do like to burrow. Last, I am not a believer in buying any fish that will not be fine in your existing tank all its life long, the risks are just too much.

    Plants. These will save you any cycling issues, depending what they are, and the fish; I have set up dozens of tanks ov er 20 years and never messed around with "cycling" per say. Can comment more when I know the plant species. And you are right, gourami should have floating plants. Water Sprite is an ideal floater; Frogbit will work, as will Water Lettuce. But Water Sprite is about the best for these fish.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    The plants I added are Anubias Nano, Lacey Java Fern, Water Wisteria, Cardinal plants, Cyperus Helferi, Amazon Sword plants, and staurogyne repens. Could I combine the frogbit and water sprite or should I go with just one or the other?

    Also, it was mentioned that clown loaches are cold water fish but when I look up the information on them, it says they like temps 74-85F on one article and 77-86F in another but they all seem to lean toward warmer temperatures. Not that I intend to keep them in the tank if it's too small but now I'm curious what the case is.
    Last edited by zombieaddict; 10-28-2013 at 06:26 PM.

  4. #14

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    0 Not allowed!
    The plants I added are Anubias Nano, Lacey Java Fern, Water Wisteria, Cardinal plants, Cyperus Helferi, Amazon Sword plants, and staurogyne repens. Could I combine the frogbit and water sprite or should I go with just one or the other?
    You have some fast growing plants here, so that is fine for the "cycling" aspect. You will not have ammonia or nitrite above zero with all these plants, if they are growing, and only a few fish.

    Water Sprite is a very fast growing plant; I toss out plants at every weekly water change. Frogbit is close to this in growth, once settled. I prefer WS because it has the lovely dangling root masses, much more than Frogbit (or Water Lettuce), and anabantids (gourami, etc) love browsing among these continually for food. They also use them for their bubblenests.

    Also, it was mentioned that clown loaches are cold water fish but when I look up the information on them, it says they like temps 74-85F on one article and 77-86F in another but they all seem to lean toward warmer temperatures. Not that I intend to keep them in the tank if it's too small but now I'm curious what the case is.
    No idea where you may have seen this, but it is incorrect. The Hillstream loaches are cooler water, but the clown is tropical. The preferred range is 25-30C or 77-86F. And this species is incredibly susceptible to ich, and cooler water would almost certainly bring this on. And with this species, ich is very stubborn.

    There are several nice loaches suited to your tank, like the dwarf loach Ambastaia sidthimunki, the banded dwarf Micronemacheilus cruciatus, and the Zebra Botia striata. Groups of 5+ of course.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

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