Results 1 to 3 of 3
10-19-2013, 06:42 PM #1Junior Member Guppy
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
Ich/White Spot Treatment - Protozin
I have recently spotted what i believe to be the early stages of Ich and so have begun treatment with Protozin. Having spoken to various aquatic centres for advice, i am baffled. First centre advised me to just follow recommendations which i have done. Removed all carbon from Fluval 406 external and calculated dosages. Another centre then advised me to remove all media apart from my foam which has confused me. He also advised to dip my fish in higher dosage solution which apparently causes the Ich to just "fall" off. Any advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
10-19-2013, 08:38 PM #2
Both the long term treatment and the dip are legitimate treatments for sick fish. Depending on the circumstances, one May be better than the other. In the case of ich, a dip is not enough because the white grains on the fish are only one stage in the parasite's life. There are other stages swimming in the water and sitting on the gravel, so your entire tank needs to be treated. You do not need to remove all media except foam. What you need to remove is all media that does its filtration by chemical means. That includes carbon and any other special media that absorbs ammonia, nitrate, etc. they may absorb some of the medications, reducing their efficiency. Ich is very common, but if caught early is fairly easy to treat. Before trying chemicals, how about raising your water temperature to 30-32 for a few weeks and adding a small amount of salt to your water? Ich cannot reproduce at such high temperatures, and with their life cycle interrupted, the parasites will eventually die off. Be sure to boost your aeration at such a temperature. Warm water holds less oxygen. The only time you should not use a heat treatment is with sensitive fish that prefer cooler water, such as corydoras cats and some loaches.
10-19-2013, 11:29 PM #3
I agree that the first method of treatment for ich should be raising the temperature. And this is often sufficient in itself. It depends upon the fish species as madagascariensis mentioned.
Raising the temp to 30C/86F can do the trick. A bit higher for those fish that can manage is a bit safer. This will kill the free-swimming ich without any medications.
I would not use salt, except perhaps for hardwater fish like livebearers and rift lake cichlids. Soft water fish can be harmed by salt, and on top of the ich this is very stressful.
Same goes for some medications. I don't know Protozin, someone mentioned this in another thread this week, but it may have issues for some fish too.
If you give us the fish that are in your tank we might be able to comment further respecting the heat and such.
Byron.Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]