Results 11 to 20 of 23
10-08-2013, 12:16 PM #11
10-08-2013, 12:39 PM #12
10-08-2013, 01:59 PM #13
It's brown to light brown, very thin coating, comes off rocks easily in water or bleach mixed with water and is slick and a bit slimy to the touch. wipes off the glass without difficulty.
I had hoped that planting my 5 gal and changing out gravel with flourite would solve the problem but it has not. I have to carefully wipe the brown coating off the leaves weekly.
I have no snails or ottos or plecos in either the 5 or the 90.
I have been unsuccessful keeping snails alive in either the 5 or the 90 but am attempting a nerites in the 5 now.
The 30 gal, which is algae free has a BNP and several snails - apple and nerites.
Same water source. same water change schedule. 0 phosphate in all tanks. all are in rooms with much indirect sunlight but 0 direct sunlight. low nitrates (less than 5 in the 5 gal and the 30 gal. a bit higher in the 90 which is more heavily stocked)
90 gal - led lights.
5 gal - single small flourescent light that came with the kit.
30 a 50/50 bulb.
I have double filtration in all 3 tanks.
If you have any more questions let me know. I'm all ears :o)
10-08-2013, 04:45 PM #14
10-08-2013, 05:17 PM #15
This post is in response to Fishmommie's post #15.
First off, I'll mention that I have 7 tanks running in my fish room, all with identical weekly 50% water changes, fertilization and light. Some tanks never get algae of any type, others get brush algae. My larger tanks get two doses of fertilizer, but the 90g only one a week; with 2, this tiny brush algae simply covered the sword plant leaves in a matter of days, but completely disappeared when I went down to once weekly. So different tanks clearly have different biological makeups. Reminds me of Rhonda Wilson mentioning in more than one of her former monthly plant columns in TFH that in her fishroom of some 30 tanks she sees different types of algae in certain tanks even though conditions are basically identical throughout.
From your description I would suggest you have diatoms; a photo would help confirm, but if it easily wipes off the glass it is not brush algae which requires a scraper. So here we should look at the light and the minerals in the water, especially silicates. Do you have the water report for your area, and does it mention silicates? These minerals are said to encourage diatoms. Low light is also a cause (in established tanks). Do you have live plants in these tanks, and if so, are they well planted? You mention silk plants, so I'm wondering how many live there may be; these will obviously help to use the minerals to some extent. This info will also help to determine the light strength.
The light on the 5g may be weak. The tubes that come with fluorescent fixtures generally are very low intensity. I bought two new All Glass T8 twin tube fixtures a couple years ago, and the tubes that came with them went straight to recycling. When I got my 29g with a T8 hood, same thing; the Aqueon tube scarcely lit the tank. So this may be at least part of the issue in the 5g. I would suggest a tube with around 6500K. For small tanks, I go with the better tubes, like the Life-Glo or ZooMed's UltraSun. Alternatively, if you change to a dual-socket incandescent hood you can use two 10w CFL "daylight" type bulbs with 6500K; I have these over both my 10g and 20g, and these two tanks have never had any algae.
Otos, bristlenose, Farlowella will all devour diatoms. I remember once introducing a group of 3 otos to my new 90g once it was established (about 2 months) and within a couple of days every speck of diatoms was gone. Snails will eat this too, though more slowly.
Byron.Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youre going to take it under your wing then youre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
10-09-2013, 07:23 PM #16
fishmommie, you are describing diatoms. It's due to an imbalance of lights and nutrients and also high phosphates/silicates. I once used play sand and could never get rid of it until I got rid of the source of all the silicates. I also use a phosphate sponge. Phosphates over .50 are an algae grower and mine come from the tap at 2.00.
Now that I have eliminated the high lights in my tank, I also have the diatoms on the way out. I didn't have it when the tank was loaded with plants because the plants were using up the excess nutrients. Too much light is what also causes the outbreak of BBA. Too began with, it was too much light for java fern to began with.
I actually hated that plant light. I had great plants and no aglae (and no CO2) running a tank with far less lighting. Once I upped the light source, here come the green spot algae, the diatoms, the BBA. Only had the light on 6 hours a day.
10-09-2013, 07:45 PM #17
10-09-2013, 10:26 PM #18
I use Chemipure Elite in the 90. Removed the silk plants a month ago and have cut down on the lighting time to around 8 hours a day. LED light. I never run the blue light. Still once or twice a month, I have to turn all the rocks over to the other side as the tops are covered with ugly brown. I grew weary of removing them and cleaning them so I merely flip them over now. I have less than an inch of gravel on the bottom of the tank. 0 phosphates, which I understood means I don't have a silicate problem. Am I wrong?
In the 5 gallon, I totally swapped out the gravel for dirt (flourite) and completely planted the tank in May so there is no gravel. the brown stuff constantly covers my plant leaves if I don't wipe it off and starts forming at the point where soil meets glass. The light bulb in the 5 gal is old - almost 2 years so most likely weak.
I'm a bit confused because Byron says more light and Lady Hobbs says less light worked for her.
Again, my 30 gal is spotlesss. I recently planted it as well and the substrate is now a mix of sand, flourite and gravel (had been gravel for almost 2 years) Same bulb as when I started two years ago as well.
all 3 tanks receive weekly W/C of 50 to 70%. I used to over feed but haven't for a long time now as I finally got comfortable with hungry fish :o(
So, I remain stymied. Brighter light? Less light? More ferts? Less Ferts? (I dose the 5 gal per directions with Flourish once a week)
10-09-2013, 11:14 PM #19
Maybe this will help?
Everyone has a different situation. In my situation, I had no diatoms because I had a lot of plants that used up the excess nutrients in the tank. When I removed the plants, then I had a whole different situation and no plants to use those nutrients but still had the same light source. It's all this balancing act.
10-09-2013, 11:40 PM #20