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Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. Lightbulb Ich Disease Nox-Ich Treatment


    0 Not allowed!
    I have discovered the ich's pressence in the tank now for 4 Days, 2 days after introducing a school of tetras. ( I now will now use a 2nd tank for introducing new fish but it is done)

    I have lost 2 fish now the most elderly ones. The product I use is called Nox-Ich it turns the water blue, 1 drop per gallon but since I have tetras its half a drop per gallon 50G tank = 25 drops.
    Temperature has been raised to 86 to speed up the cycle.

    Result:

    Still there is signs of white spots on fish many, they show acts of stress ( school of tetras are all anti- social to each other )

    What I wanna know is for how long must I continue the 25 drops per day treatment without being able to do a water change. If I can do a water change how much is ok 10, 20 ,30 % ?

    Aswell I've noticed stress is also something which can cause the ich and since the day ive introduced the fish in the tank i had just bought a powerhead to bring more circulation in the tank since my tank is a high tank rather then a long tank ( ractangular ) .
    Can it be there is too much circulation... I got the powerhead for the right amount of Gallons. I placed it in a way so the water dripping out my filter gets more disturbed thus creating more air bubbles evaporating more gasses.

    In the first place the powerhead was placed in the middle towards the bottom to get all the debree my filter cannot pick up dur to the bad water flow . It was doing a good circular flow tank was clean but i dont know if it was too much.

    Thank you for your tips !

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You should not raise the temperature of your water when using meds (unless the directions on the bottle clearly state this). The reason for this is the meds and the higher temps can lower the amount of oxygen in the water which will not help your fish.

    Are there any instructions on the bottle or manufactures website that tell you how long to wait before changing some water ?

    The correct amount of flow in a aquarium would really be dependent on what type of fish you have.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #3

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I just looked up the ingredients in Nox-Ich since I am unfamiliar with it. I'm not surprised the tetra are dying. This product contains Sodium Chloride [this is common salt] and Malachite Green. Characins are highly sensitive to both, as are many other fish. The instructions appear to recommend half-dose with tetra, and many similar products do the same, simply because of this issue. But anything at half strength is obviously weakened, and the substances will still bother the fish, so it is as well to use alternate treatments. And the best is simply raising the temperature in the tank to 86F for 7-10 days.

    I would do a major water change to get as much of this out as you can. When refilling, raise the temperature to 86F though not all at once if it is below 80F now. By major water change I mean 75-80% of the tank volume. Use a good conditioner, but nothing else. You want to avoid further stress, which as you said is the sole cause of ich [the protozoan has to be present obviously, but it is stress that weakens the immune system of fish so they get it].

    Some suggest even higher temperature, around 90F, which is fine for some fish but others can't handle this. Without knowing what fish you have, I can't comment further.

    Byron.

  4. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    + to Byron and to add to his comments, once the temp is at 86F, leave it there for 7 - 10 days AFTER you've seen the last ich spot on your fish. the extra 7 - 10 days is critical to kill the eggs that fall off the fish into your substrate. No salt. No meds. Just heat. it will absolutely work if you stay the course. Be aware also that all of your fish are likely infested even if you don't see spots as ich generally starts in the gills then works out to the body and fins.
    You should make 50% W/C every 3 days and vac the substrate when you do, being careful to replace the old water with water at 86F treated only with a good dechlorinator.
    Good luck
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks guys for the quick response.
    I do have my water temp at 86F for now 2 days, I will aswell let the tank with the meds sit for the rest of the night and tomorow i will stop the meds and only work with the temp stable at 86F and constent water changes every 3 days. As far as the meds and high heat leading to low oxygen I do have my power head placed in a way to try to help them get as much oxygen as possible.

    Im just a little afraid that stopping the treatment will be worse than continuing.

    FYI My fish are angels , school of tetras , clown loach .

    I am surprised to see though my anubias and java moss dont seem to care whatsoever to the meds, theyre growing and nice in colour.
    Last edited by Alex_discus; 10-07-2013 at 10:04 PM.

  6. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    You really need to get those meds out of there ASAP if you have the heat at 86F. You're going to lose fish if you don't. :o( Never use heat and meds together. bad mix.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I agree with fishmommie. Please do a major water change now. I can assure you that the fish are being harmed by the sodium and the malachite green. This weakens them further, which will only make the cure more difficult and longer.

    And now knowing the fish, you can go higher...the angels and loach will be fine up to 90F, the tetra might though I don't know the species, so it might be best to stay around 86F but no lower.

    Byron.

  8. Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Ok. It's done and temp is at 86F

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Well looks like I won my first battle of the ich.

    I cannot spot any of them on my fish anymore but im sure there can still be a presence of them in the water because sometimes my clowns still rub themselves on objects ( rarely but they do it )

    So for a couple more days and more water changes, then I can drop the temp back to what it used to be gradually.

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex_discus View Post
    Well looks like I won my first battle of the ich.

    I cannot spot any of them on my fish anymore but im sure there can still be a presence of them in the water because sometimes my clowns still rub themselves on objects ( rarely but they do it )

    So for a couple more days and more water changes, then I can drop the temp back to what it used to be gradually.
    Yes, i would leave the temp for a few more days. Some fish are really bad with ich, and clown loach is one of these. Another week will not hurt, they are fine at higher temps, just keep water surface movement, less feeding. The flashing (what we call the quick scrape onto objects) is because ich are in the gills. Ich first attack fish in the gills, before you can see them on the body. I frequently see new fish acquisitions in QT flash, but never see spots. Lessening the "treatment" which here is heat too soon will allow the ich to re-infest, particularly with clown loaches.

    Byron.

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