Aquarium Forum

  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

        Via paypal

  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 74
  1. #11


    1 Not allowed!
    I think these rules should be reviewed they are good ones.

    It definitely can take them longer to acclimate and accept food but most of the time, given that they come from a reliable source and in the right environment, they should be eating sooner than later. 2 small discus is going to be overwhelmed in a 90 g tank and adding on the additional stress from everything else; off course it'll take them longer to eat...Can the 2 fishes rebound in a few more days? Sure, that's possible, but why are we not providing the best possible environment for them from the start? Why wait and patch things up as we go along....

    The person is obviously a beginner and we want to steer him in the right direction. The thing that worry me is the source of the discus as well as the attempt to keep juveniles in a planted tank, not to mention the other tankmates. Maybe it's just my eyes but that blue diamond looks a bit stunted, pelvic fin could be a bit longer than it should be for a 2.7 inches discus and the eyes look a bit big as well. Growing a discus out in a planted tank is more challenging and I just see a lot of potential issues for a new person. It'd be best if he/she can take it back sooner rather than later and really decide on if he/she is up for the task or not.

    It's not the optimal living condition for both the discus (tankmates, only 2 fishes with addition of 1 each week, we know how discus can be if you add a new one each time and they might start picking on the new one and add on undue stress which can be avoided if you added multiple or all of them at once..., and given all the hiding space, it might be so stressed from the bullying and just hide all day and starve itself to death) and the other tankmates (looks like white skirt, guppies, and danios all subjected to 29 C temperature). The increase in metabolism will end up having the guppies die sooner and make the danios even more active than they already are (tackling the food faster and swimming around faster), which will stress the discus out even more.

    We can take it slow and take our time with the research before the fact, but it's already after the fact.

    I see your point on throwing out too much information all at once but let's be realistic and illustrate the whole picture of what is to be expected in regards to caring for these fishes. They're not hard to keep but they're not easy either. They're not that cheap and I don't want to see anyone setting themselves up for failure by not having all the information needed at their disposal. Be it that not all the information is directly relevant to the OP question, it is still relevant in the grand scheme of things and the overall big picture.

    I don't mean to sound rude but if we have the knowledge and ability to foresee possible issues, we should warn newcomers about it. Then it is up to them to take it or leave it.
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  2. #12

    Red face

    0 Not allowed!
    I agree that you need to give them some time. I have not seen (might have missed) your tank parameters; what is your pH? The water hardness (Both DH and KH)? Are you sure the ammonia/nitrites are zero (your tank filter took a hit adding more fish.) Also, are you changing enough water every day? Young discus need a MINIMUM! of 50% every day and try larger! Nitrates need to be near zero (hence, plants do very poorly in tanks with young discus. After grow out, then nitrates can get up to 1 - 2 ppm; still poor for plants but discus need clean water.)

    When you ask: "So should i reduce the temp to 27, 26 c."

    No!! Discus need high temps to stay healthy. The tank temp should be at least 86-88 F (these temps are why you canNOT keep most other fish with discus - discus do best at these higher temps.) and the water is absolutely clean, then in time they should start eating.
    Last edited by Cermet; 09-14-2013 at 01:17 PM. Reason: edit
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.

    For Fishless cycling:

  3. #13


    1 Not allowed!
    Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and I'm entitled to mine.
    My view is that the OP, being a newcomer to discus, started this thread with a serious concern regarding his newly acquired discus not eating, and was looking for a direct response to (at least partially) allay his fears.
    Suffice that a plausible answer be given now, with nothing more than perhaps references to some sources he or she could turn to, to eventually research and learn how the discus should be properly cared for overall, and that could be accessed by the OP at his own time and pace.
    Flooding the thread with extraneous material/info that may not have any relevance to the problem at hand is, in my view, simply confusing to the OP, and likely causing him to run off in several different directions at once, in a vain effort to try finding a fix, and which may only tend to exacerbate the problem he's facing at the moment.
    That's my .02

  4. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Hi every one...
    Sorry for delay in respond.
    I really don't know what to say... but thank you very much for all that information, which is really very helpful for such a newbie person like me.

    Below is the food kind which i am trying to feed my fishes with. (check the picture).
    Also my 2 discus still wont like to eat, from that first time i brought them, it has been now almost more than a week.

    I changed yesterday 25% from the water, and i waked up morning checking the main parameters, which result was as also the picture below.
    The NITRATE was too high, then i change 50% of water, then it come down from 160 ppm to 20 ppm.

    Yesterday also one of my family brought me a new 2 discus with the same size of the 2 which i have, they still not eating, but what i noticed that they are lees shy and don't afraid when i put my hand in front of them.

    Also the first person which i brought my first discus from him don't no any thing about the history of that fishes.

    All the 4 discus swimming together without any issue, as per as i can see, the only thing is they are not eating, meanwhile all other fishes eating very will.

    Thank you again for your great help, all of you.

    Food kind


    Test result


  5. #15


    0 Not allowed!
    I assume that is either a mistake or a typo - a nitrate of 160 ppm will kill discus. Since you did a very small water change (a puny 50%) there is no way the nitrate was above 40 ppm before the change if the 20 ppm reading is accurate after the change. By the way, that reading is way too high for discus.

    This brings up a critical point. Young discus MUST have nitrates NO HIGHER than 2 ppm and under 0.2 ppm should be your goal; otherwise, the discus will never grow to even close to proper size. Your water changes are near useless because the fish will generate more waste per week than a 50% water change randomly done could ever do. The question is how often do you change the water and how large the change?

    I see you have mostly processed food; some discus (in stores) get live brine shrimp and/or worms. It takes time to get them on a process food diet. Raise tank temp will help. In no case should the tank temp be under 85 F. Aim for 88 F will help them to eat. Consider 1 tsp of salt per 10 gal of water.) That can be a great tonic for discus. Keep the salt level roughly constant for a week (i.e. add salt as needed to correct for the water changes - be careful, don't go above this level since other fish do not tolerate salt level. Discus can easily handle 1 tsp per 1 gal of water but that level is only used for sick discus.)

    A near 100% water change is a must right now (do watch pH!) Do at least a near 100% water change bi-weekly with young discus. This assumes the tank pH does not drift compared to your tap water. If so, than you must age all water allowing it to better match the tank's pH. pH of added water to tank should not exceed 0.25 difference.

    If your tap/tank pH differ more than 0.25 than start making water changes every day but keep them small, say 20%. Confirm that tank/tap pH are closer. Then after a week or so, increase the W/C to 40%. Continue to get near 100% W/C a day until the discus grow to full size (six months or so.) Than can drop the W/C to 100% every week (may get algae issues with that limited W/C.)
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.

    For Fishless cycling:

  6. #16


    0 Not allowed!
    There have been a few concerning posts on this thread, so I feel a reminder of the forum rules are in order before potential problems could arise. Below is a quote form our forum rules here:

    Respect other’s way of doing things in this hobby of ours. There is more than one "right" way to do things. Acknowledge that other methods may also work. If you think someone gave erroneous advice, say so politely and discuss this in a mature manner.
    To the OP, you have got some pretty good advice all throughout this thread. Please keep us posted on your progress
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL=""]

  7. #17


    0 Not allowed!
    I should add a few points on my post and indirectly others here:

    Discus are not a fish for beginners because there are details to their upkeep that require experience and knowledge.

    Discus can act in ways that are not like more common fresh water aquarium fish. Not eating is a very common issue. Given time they will often come around IF they have good water and temperature.

    Water with nitrates way below common fresh water aquarium levels and keeping a temp well above what most other fish can tolerate is the norm for discus.

    Failure to understand these two facts is often why many people have issues with starting up a discus tank. This, I feel, is why discus will do very poorly in a mixed tank.

    This is the primary reason most people, I would think, would consider discus a difficult fish - ultra clean water and high temp; in reality, they are not difficult at all IF you give them hyper clean water (near zero nitrates) and proper temperature.

    For this reason I, a discus keeper, am providing a detailed post. Non-beginners know all about pH, nitrates, water hardness, and issues of tank nitrates and water changes. However, for a beginner these can be issues and if so, then discus are a difficult fish. That is just a fact of life. If they want the discus to do well, than following common practice as generally agreed by discus keepers, is a must. Otherwise, the fish could do very poorly and live short lives.
    Last edited by Cermet; 09-15-2013 at 02:40 PM.
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.

    For Fishless cycling:

  8. #18


    0 Not allowed!
    I suggest you re-homing the other fishes and search for other potential tank mates that can withstand the heat. You're essentially shortening the lives of the other fishes you have now with the increased temperature.

    As Cermet pointed out, another water change is in order. The nitrate level is way too high. I will warn you, when you start to feed heavily to keep up with the demands of a growing discus, you will need to thoroughly clean after their mess and more frequent water changes. The only worse thing than a sick and starved discus is a stunted one.

    You can bump the temp up to 30-31 C, but again, you will need to reconsider moving the other fishes out in those temperature.

    With an increased in temperature, no more spastic tankmates, lower nitrates, and a group of 4, they'll turn to food more easily. Frozen bloodworms or freeze dried blackworms are a good start to get them to start eating.
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  9. Default

    2 Not allowed!
    I am really very happy now.
    Each time i am reading your excellent posts, i am finding my self more confides and understanding much more this great and nice underwater world.

    What i notice from most of the posts, 3 things should i consider it immediately:

    1- My temp now is 29c, i should raise it to between 30-31. In this case my other fish life spin will come down, or i should move all other fish to another tank.
    2- Changing water, 20% daily and change it 100% immediately.
    3- Clean water is not an option, its a must. I do have now 4 filters (Eheim pro 3 1200xl, Eheim classic 600, x2 Led canister filter 1200 L/H). Should i add another one so i will be sure 100% that my water is always clear and dealing very will with fish/food... wastes? (Money not an issue).

    I understand now and very well that this hobby specially with DISCUS FISHES, is so difficult, but i am really ready to continue with it, no matter how hard its, or no matter how much should i pay, to make it as best as it can be. Looking to my tank make me happy and much relax...

    Thank you

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Awards Showcase

    【ツ】 - korith So glad someone else takes KH seriously! - talldutchie most promising newbie award! - talldutchie Good advice. Stick around! - ~firefly~ A gift for your knowledge of Tetras. - steeler1 
    For your continuing wise words - ~firefly~ Thanks for your detailed and informative post. It is a pleasure having you here. - William A second gift.  Since I saw you just recieved another Sea Horse ;-) - William thanks for helping me with your informative posts - vafa Grats on MOTM to the Tetra King. - Spardas 


    0 Not allowed!
    Excellent advice from Spardas and Cermet.

    My only input is to your question about more filters. This is not going to help, and may do the opposite. Clean water does not depend upon more filters, but upon adequate filtration and maintenance (your water changes), having suitable fish species together, and proper environment.

    Raising the temperature to what is needed means removing all other fish species. They will not manage at this high a temperature, and that can cause even more problems because they will be stressed and that means their behaviours can fluctuate wildly, causing further stress to the discus.

    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts