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Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Acclimation

  1. Default Acclimation


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm going to be getting fish for my cycled 46 gallon tank tonight :-D


    My question is: do I set up multiple containers and drip acclimate them in whatever groups the lfs bags them in? Or can I put all if them in one big container and drip acclimate them together? (I'm assuming the first option would be better...)
    46 gallon bowfront: 1 angelfish, 1 GBR, 1 albino longfin BNP, 3 sunset mickey mouse platies, 3 blue mickey mouse platies, 9 cherry barbs, 9 harlequin rasboras

    29 gallon dwarf puffer tank

    Scheming show tank #3....

    10 gallon pond snail breeding tank

  2. #2

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    The lfs has all their fish in the same water so it is fine to acclimate them together.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

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  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Since I purchase my fish fairly locally, I don't drip acclimate - I add a little (like 1/4 cup) tank water into the bag, wait about a minute or 2, add more - repeat until the bag is pretty full, drain some water out into a sink, then add a little tank water 2-3 more times - drain until just a few inches of water left in the bag, then net the fish and put into the tank.

    If I have more than 1 bag, I acclimate 1 bag one at a time and float the other(s) in my main tank.

    If you choose to drip acclimate, then do as Honey Bear stated.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Unless your water is considerably different from your LFS, use drip, if not, use the method suggested by imma. Although ,if temp is really different, just float the bag for a bit before you open the bag and put tank water in.
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I agree with others. I use the floating bag/cup of water added slowly method, but either method achieves the result assuming you have no major parameter differences.

    Just in case it isn't obvious, net the fish out of the bag/container when you are ready to move them to the tank. The bag water should never be allowed to get into the aquarium.

    Byron.

  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I float the different bags in the tank until the temperature is the same and net out the fish to add to the tank after 20 minutes. I do that because I have checked the water parameters from my local lfs and I found my pH was identical which makes sense because we are on the same water supply.
    Now my reef inhabitants get the drip method because the lfs water parameters are different then mine in regards to pH. phos, nitrate, carbonate hardness and calcium.
    It never hurts to check the lfs bag water to see if it's close to yours. With freshwater fish I would really check the pH and if it's the same, you're golden. Just acclimate for temperature.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

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  7. #7

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    On this issue of mixing waters, most of us recognize the importance of temperature, and then perhaps pH, and maybe some would think of GH too. But the most important here is TDS, total dissolved solids. I researched this a while back for an article, so I will just copy over the relevant paragraph. Mixing the waters may be advisable in all cases.

    When acclimating new fish, or moving fish from one aquarium to another, TDS [which includes GH] is probably even more important than pH. What is often termed “pH shock” is now being seen more as “TDS shock.” Fish have been shown to withstand fairly significant pH shifts when the TDS was low in both waters (Jensen, 2009), something I can attest too from my own experience. It is the TDS, not the pH, that shocks them. The effects of shock can be offset by slowing mixing the waters. And this can be important between your own tanks too, as TDS is unique to each aquarium.

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