Results 11 to 20 of 39
Thread: More tales of woe....
09-10-2013, 03:35 PM #11
"I have two 55 gallon tanks. The goldfish tank has 4 fish the longest being 4' body and I haven't lost any of them. Yesterday, I tested with strips, had nitrites = 10.0 nitrates =40. I did a 20 gal water change with no difference; did another 20 gal water change 4 hours later and I am at nitrites= 5.0 and nitrates= 20. I plan to do another 20 gal water change today. I am using a Top Fin dechlorinator, but ordered the Satchem product yesterday".
Sweet, two 55 gallon tanks is exactly what I was hoping to hear. When you do a water change you want to make sure you change enough to make the difference. With nitrites of 10 I would probably do 2 back to back 80% water changes. You're just diluting the concentration of harmful elements in the water so if your water change isn't large enough, it doesn't make as much of a difference in the overall chemistry of your tank.
"It has a Tetra Whisper hang on that is rated at 70 gal. I did replace the filters and after doing more research and reading more threads, I see where that was a mistake. I will order the API Master test kit today or do you have another suggestion? Again after more research, I understand that I will have to do daily water changes until it is under control and I intend to do that."
The API Master Test kit was a perfect choice and will be your best friend! Just a heads up that you are going to want to add more filtration to the tank. You will constantly see the recommendation that you add double the filtration capacity for the size of your tank (IE a 55 gallon tank needs 110 gallons worth of filtration) This isn't just that we are being overly cautious. The reason for this recommendation is that when the manufacturer tests the flow rate of the filter they do so without any media inside. We pack our filters with media for our beneficial bacteria to live on thereby reducing the flow of the filter. Especially in your goldfish tank (they are extremely messy). A canister filter would be a great addition to each tank. When you are ready to add filtration, we can give you recommendations, but we'll cross one bridge at a time. Right now we want to get your water chemistry safe for your fish.
"I started with Kordon Rid-Ich Plus-advice from PetSmart. I did a 20 gal water change, increased the heat to 85 degrees, and added an aerator. I didn't seem to be making any difference. So after reading different places on the web, I tried the salt. I have killed off 4 neon tetras in the process. I was thinking that I wasn't going to be able to get rid of the ich, so I would start from scratch, i.e. dispose of the fish, plants, gravel, etc. and cycle the tank the right way. If there is a sure fire way way to be rid of the ich, I am all ears and will try it. As to your plant suggestion, I have plants in that tank now, but not the goldfish tank. I will get some floating plants today for the goldfish tank.."
Honestly, adding treatments and salts in a fish tank is usually a last resort. The best thing for your fish with ich is going to be to kill the ich by raising the temperature. So the first step here is to confirm that it is for sure ich. This article has some great pictures that you can look at.
It should look like someone sprinkled salt on your fish. Once you have confirmed that it is ich, you need to first make sure you have removed all the medication from your tank, then you can raise the temp to 86 degrees slowly. Ich medication and higher temperatures both cause a lower oxygenation in the water. This often accounts for deaths of already weakened fish, so the addition of a couple of air stones would be of great benefit as well
I've rambled long enough and I think you have more than enough to digest right now, so let me know when you test kit comes what your parameters look like, also let me know if you for sure feel like it's ich you're dealing with based on that article that I linked and we can take it from there.~Manna
120 gallon FW bowfront in progress
09-10-2013, 07:21 PM #12
Thanks Crunchy Leaf! Can you elaborate onA canister filter would be a great addition to each tank. When you are ready to add filtration, we can give you recommendations, but we'll cross one bridge at a time. Right now we want to get your water chemistry safe for your fish.
09-10-2013, 08:04 PM #13
Yeah. Adding a canister filter to your existing filtration would be my personal choice if these were my tanks. You really can't have too much filtration on your tank. You could do something like an Eheim 250 or Fluval 305. Those would be top of the line filters though, for which you also pay top dollar ($100+).
If budget would be an issue AquaTop 302 and Rena XP-S are two other popular filters that would put you in the $50 - $70 range. I have heard great things about those brands but I've only used Eheim and Fluval.
You can also get 2 more filters identical to what you have and just double up on each tank. There are plenty of aquarists that keep tanks using only Hang On Back (HOB) type filters and it works great. I am just partial to canisters since I started running them on my tanks.~Manna
120 gallon FW bowfront in progress
09-10-2013, 09:24 PM #14
Another water change: Nitrates= 0 Nitrites= 3.0 It is getting there...
Will do another one later after the water cools.
09-10-2013, 10:33 PM #15
I dont know if you use amazon, but you could put some different cannister filters in your cart and save them for later. That way you can be alerted in the price drops a lot one day and you want to pounce on the price. Last month I was able to get a rena large cannister for under $70 when they normally go for over $100 and around $150 in stores.
09-11-2013, 01:46 AM #16
Your nitrItes should still be lower than your nitrAtes, not suddenly higher as you are saying in this post. If the issue was a mislabel in your post and the nitrItes are the ones at 0, and the nitrAtes are the ones at 3.0 then you are good! Take a break and just check your readings for when they go back up again. If you didn't mislabel then I'm questioning your testing results and suggest you retest before you do another water change just to be sure. (not a personal slight! Just know that sometimes people have testing errors and its good to be certain!)
If you have moved to a liquid test, one common issue can be getting the Nitrates solution sufficiently mixed because one of the two is very heavy/sluggish in the bottle and you have to shake it quite a bit.
09-11-2013, 04:38 AM #17
I did another 20 gal water change tonight, so that makes 2 today. I just checked, using the same test strips I have been using and my nitrates are 0 and my nitrites are 3. That is a 40 gal water change in a 55 gal tank and the nitrites didn't change???? I bought the API ammonia test kit; no ammonia. Thought it might be the strips, but used them on the other tank and they were fine. Looks like another day of water changes are in store??? Any other suggestions???
Trillianne-I didn't take it as a slight. Actually, I need someone to ride herd on me as I am still wandering in the desert. thanks
09-11-2013, 04:51 AM #18
Have you tested your tap water?
I suppose its possible if you have issues with a septic or fertilizer (think farm or lawn) run off contamination issues... but if its above 1.0ppm that's above what the EPA has set for max contamination and I'd be in touch with whomever is responsible for your water. (link to EPA guidelines on Nitrites in tap water here)
If you live near enough to a pet store, perhaps take them a water sample and have them test. It seems odd to me that one is diluting and not the other.
09-11-2013, 06:25 AM #19
If you don't have ammonia that is a wonderful sign! Honestly I think the problem here is the test strips. I used test strips on my ten gallon a couple years ago when I first got it. They were crap. Possibly yours have been compromised by excess light exposure or just aren't all that accurate to begin with.
The pet store tests with strips too, I don't think they'll do anything for you that you haven't done for yourself. I'm not saying you can't trust them at all, but to change 40 gallons in a 55 gallon tank with no change to nitrites, doesn't make sense.
The EPA's maximum contaminant level goal for nitrite in drinking water is 1 ppm. So of you had 3 in your water from the faucet, I think you'd have a real concern.
I say get those test values for nitrite and nitrate with your master test kit.~Manna
120 gallon FW bowfront in progress
09-11-2013, 01:56 PM #20
Here is the AM update from my secret bunker in the desert:
Test strips still say 0 nitrates and 3 nitrites. I am on the road today and will not get back until this evening and won't be able to do a water change today.
1)I added Sachem Prime to the tank in the recommended dose to control the nitrites as I can't do the water change today.
2) Bought some floating plants for the tank. Have them quarantined for a few days to make sure they don't have snails. I got them from a big fish/aquarium store in downtown Phoenix and the dealer's tank didn't have any snails in it.
3) I tested the tap water with same strips, 0 nitrates/nitrites.
4) I will be getting a bigger hang on or cannister filter for the other tank and then use the spare hang on on the crazy out of control tank
5) Will order the API Master test kit on Friday after there is some $$ in the bank.
Am I going in the right direction?? Also, some of you have mentioned the cannister filters; here are my questions:
1) Inside or outside the 55 gal tank?
2) How noisy are they, (both tanks are in the living room)??
3) Am I ready for such a beast, or stick with hang on filters for now?
Thanks in advance for your help! I truly appreciate everyone's responses!!