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Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 28 of 28
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah sorry about not getting the GH, haven't been able to run to the store to get it tested but I will try this week or maybe call a pool store and ask. Sorry for the delay!

    And the weird thing is my java fern began dying off completely (leaves were browning and rotting and looked awful) so I pretty much pruned the entire thing and replanted the new growth. My DHG looks extremely green nowadays though, and I only have a little algae on the sides and some on the wood but there's a lot less than before. I'll get back to you soon with the GH when I can.



    edit- Okay, called the pool supply store and the guy said he believes the tap water in my area is 110-120 GH. He told me I could come in and get things like iron, copper, calcium, alkalinity, etc tested too. Should I go ahead and get those tests?
    Last edited by Ku0915; 09-16-2013 at 09:11 PM.

  2. #22

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ku0915 View Post
    Yeah sorry about not getting the GH, haven't been able to run to the store to get it tested but I will try this week or maybe call a pool store and ask. Sorry for the delay!

    And the weird thing is my java fern began dying off completely (leaves were browning and rotting and looked awful) so I pretty much pruned the entire thing and replanted the new growth. My DHG looks extremely green nowadays though, and I only have a little algae on the sides and some on the wood but there's a lot less than before. I'll get back to you soon with the GH when I can.



    edit- Okay, called the pool supply store and the guy said he believes the tap water in my area is 110-120 GH. He told me I could come in and get things like iron, copper, calcium, alkalinity, etc tested too. Should I go ahead and get those tests?
    I'll respond to these issues now, as I tend to forget if I wait for further data.

    The Java Fern issue is probably the result of continued inappropriate conditions to the point where it just can't manage. The high light, plus all the iron and trace minerals that were going in the water previously. Sometimes plants take a while to respond to negative factors. Now that you've correct some of this, expect the JF to rebound in time. Though it is a slow-growing plant so this rebounding takes longer than it would with a fast-growing plant.

    Don't know if I mentioned it in this thread or another, but aquarium plants require 17 nutrients in fairly specific proportion to one another. Some plants can take up an excess of some nutrients, other plants cannot. Having a deficiency of some nutrient will obviously be detrimental to the plant, but at the same time having an excess of some nutrients can cause problems too. Some nutrients in excess actually cause the plant to shift its uptake so that some other nutrient is no longer taken up. What appears like a deficiency of this or that, is actually due to an excess of something else. This is why I always caution anyone on increasing specific nutrients. If they are missing, fine, add them. But if not, don't. This is also a good way to cause algae issues, because algae is much less demanding and can take advantage of many situations where plants are being hindered.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I see. I'm still just a little confused with all this so the help is very much appreciated. The iron dosing has confused me because my rotala is supposed to be turning red, and it started to... but then I stopped the iron and they reverted back to green within a couple of days. That's the only reason I think I'm missing out on iron since that plant will only turn red with proper iron levels, but as far as the yellowing and browning of my other plants, it's still confusing.

    And how does the GH sound? I will get an exact answer for you (along with the other tests if the store can do them) but that's a rough estimate.

  4. #24

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ku0915 View Post
    I see. I'm still just a little confused with all this so the help is very much appreciated. The iron dosing has confused me because my rotala is supposed to be turning red, and it started to... but then I stopped the iron and they reverted back to green within a couple of days. That's the only reason I think I'm missing out on iron since that plant will only turn red with proper iron levels, but as far as the yellowing and browning of my other plants, it's still confusing.

    And how does the GH sound? I will get an exact answer for you (along with the other tests if the store can do them) but that's a rough estimate.
    I haven't seen any rough estimate for the GH...

    When we get all this sorted out, the iron may start going back in. But if you are seeing brown blotches in sword leaves, that is excess iron, but as I said possibly due to lack of calcium.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Byron View Post
    I haven't seen any rough estimate for the GH...

    When we get all this sorted out, the iron may start going back in. But if you are seeing brown blotches in sword leaves, that is excess iron, but as I said possibly due to lack of calcium.
    I called the store and asked the GH for our tap water and he said 110-120. I don't understand exactly what that means, but that's what I've been told so far. I'm going to get another confirmed test hopefully this weekend but that was the only thing I was given.

  6. #26

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ku0915 View Post
    I called the store and asked the GH for our tap water and he said 110-120. I don't understand exactly what that means, but that's what I've been told so far. I'm going to get another confirmed test hopefully this weekend but that was the only thing I was given.
    That number would probably be in ppm (possibly mg/l, which is the same thing for our purposes), so 110-120 ppm equates to 6 to 7 dGH. This is soft. But sufficient for calcium needs of swords; I raise my GH up to 5 dGH and now have no calcium issues.

    So, that means the brown spots is due to overdosing iron. And as mentioned previously, I'm fairly confident the Java Fern trouble is iron too.

    Let me know if new data is different respecting the GH.

    BTW, iron is also likely making the algae issues worse, as algae is known to increase with iron fertilization.

    Byron.
    Last edited by Byron; 09-18-2013 at 01:00 AM.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Okay, I will stop dosing iron. Do you think I should dose it occasionally or leave it out completely? The only plants benefiting from it is the rotala but I agree I have too much iron. The algae is getting a bit crazy on the driftwood.
    Would the iron be the cause for the java fern transparency too? Besides browning, they are becoming transparent at the ends but I've read multiple things on the cause of that. Too much light, too little CO2... Or is it really just the iron? I think my CO2 level is low so I'm going to make a new batch soon and quite possibly invest in a power head. Do you think just dosing flourish comp, lights for about 8-9 hours a day, and CO2 will balance things out a bit? Like, what should my routine be?

    And thank you so so much for helping me solve this! It was beginning to get frustrating! I will try my best to get as many test results to you this weekend so we can see if there's any other problems besides the iron levels.

  8. #28

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ku0915 View Post
    Okay, I will stop dosing iron. Do you think I should dose it occasionally or leave it out completely? The only plants benefiting from it is the rotala but I agree I have too much iron. The algae is getting a bit crazy on the driftwood.
    Would the iron be the cause for the java fern transparency too? Besides browning, they are becoming transparent at the ends but I've read multiple things on the cause of that. Too much light, too little CO2... Or is it really just the iron? I think my CO2 level is low so I'm going to make a new batch soon and quite possibly invest in a power head. Do you think just dosing flourish comp, lights for about 8-9 hours a day, and CO2 will balance things out a bit? Like, what should my routine be?

    And thank you so so much for helping me solve this! It was beginning to get frustrating! I will try my best to get as many test results to you this weekend so we can see if there's any other problems besides the iron levels.
    My best advice I think is what I previously said, namely to stop the iron and Trace, and only dose Flourish Comp once or twice a week. And reduce the light down to just one tube, the 6500K (or 6700K, whichever it was).

    I have never used CO2 so not sure what to suggest with this.

    The idea is to get things down to a minimum so we can achieve a balance. And don't worry about algae on wood, this is natural, by which I mean it is to be expected. We just want to keep it off the plant leaves.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

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