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Results 11 to 20 of 28
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    20130908_161949.jpg
    DHG20130908_162034.jpg
    Few leaves on the stems will yellow/brown/get holes and die. The tops also started going pale and brown (maybe too close to light)?
    20130908_162042.jpg
    Green algae and spores on the sides
    20130908_162120.jpg
    Only thing really thriving is the java moss.

  2. #12

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I used the Flourish root tabs about a little over a month ago, and I even put more in a couple weeks ago for my DHG. They don't seem to be doing much at all besides helping the Amazon sword and stems a bit.
    I would not expect the tabs to make much difference to the DHG, I still think this problem is more complex. This is not an easy plant for most.

    I forgot to mention that my readings have been 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 0 nitrates since it was redone. The only time I had an ammonia reading was 2 weeks after I set it up, and it was reading 0.25ppm. Since then though, I haven't had a sign of anything. Note that I did continue using the cycled filter media from when it was set up before, so maybe it's technically cycled... but the 0 nitrates has been worrying me and possibly could be part of the problem. I also test with an API kit that doesn't expire until 2017, so I know it's still okay.
    This is exactly what I would expect, so no problems here. With live plants, you should never see ammonia or nitrite above zero, and nitrate should be below 10ppm. My tanks run from zero to 5 ppm nitrates.

    And I don't have a GH kit, only a KH but if it's necessary I can purchase one online. All I know is the tap water has 0.5 ammonia in it so I have to use Prime, and my PH in the tank is pretty high (7.8).
    Before spending money on something you may only use once, try to get the GH from the water supply people for your city. Many have a website with water data, or they should be able to tell you. The total hardness, or GH, is what we want to know. From your photos I don't think this is the issue, but it is as well to know, because GH affects fish significantly too.

    From the photos, it is not that bad. However, I would modify things a bit. If you are OK not fussing over the DHG, I would remove one of the tubes to lessen the light. Then, dose Flourish Comprehensive twice weekly, the recommended dose, i.e., for a 20g, 1/2 teaspoon immediately following the water change, and another 1/2 teaspoon three days later. Discontinue the Flourish Iron and Flourish Trace, at least for the present. Flourish Comp has all this in it, and in the required proportion that plants need [see below on the ammonium/nitrate aspect]. Depending upon the algae issues, you could reconsider this after a few weeks. I have 7 tanks running, and one of them can only get one dose of Flourish Comp a week or algae immediately increases, whereas the others take two doses, or one Comp and one Trace. It sometimes takes a bit of experimenting to sort out the individual tank's biology.

    Clean the algae off the glass at each water change. What is there will not go away, no matter what, but you want to see it not increasing further; then you will know you're on the right track. And the plants need a few weeks after any changes like this to adjust, so don't expect it overnight.

    Final comment on the ammonium/nitrate. This occurs naturally from the respiration of fish and the breakdown of organics in the substrate. Plants manily use ammonium; nitrate is only taken up by most when they have no ammonium available, sort of as a last resort. The reason is because the plants have to convert the nitrate back into ammonium, and this takes more energy, so they avoid it when they can. There is some ammonium and nitrate in Flourish Comp, but minimal, as they expect sufficient to be in a fish tank naturally. What is happening here with so much light intensity is that the plants are probably not getting sufficient ammonia to balance, and when this occurs, photosynthesis slows and algae takes advantage. Increasing other nutrients will have much the same effect, unsettling the balance. Finding the balance and keeping it is the aim. You are also adding CO2 so this factors in, but we still need to find the balance.

    Hope this helps.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Wow thank you for your advice! This is incredibly helpful, and I really appreciate it.
    Just another question;
    I recently added cherry shrimp to help keep things clean, and I know they're sensitive to copper, and the Flourish Trace has small amounts of copper. It says to use it w/ Flourish comp, so should I dose it twice a week as well, or less because of the shrimp? And how often should I dose Iron? (I've went down to every other day now).
    And I will reduce one of the lights and just let the DHG would for another month before I decide if I want to try something else. I plan on doing a super cleaning of my tank either tonight or tomorrow and hopefully get most of the algae off. I also wanted to hear your opinion on the light I mentioned (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Trichr...upplies_text_z) and maybe if I should just replace one of the bulbs with one of these? The only problem I had using one light was it's very dark especially sing the water is tinted, and supposedly this light gives a brighter look to the tank. Plus I can get my money back if I return one of the lights by the 22nd if I end up not needing it anymore.

    I'll get back to you on the GH thing once I'm able to find it. May have to go to my LFS to get it tested if it's not anywhere online, but I'll let you know soon!

  4. #14

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Wow thank you for your advice! This is incredibly helpful, and I really appreciate it.
    Just another question;
    I recently added cherry shrimp to help keep things clean, and I know they're sensitive to copper, and the Flourish Trace has small amounts of copper. It says to use it w/ Flourish comp, so should I dose it twice a week as well, or less because of the shrimp? And how often should I dose Iron? (I've went down to every other day now).
    You're welcome. On the copper, the minimal amount in any of these plant fertilizers will not harm invertebrates or fish, unless they are overdosed. And by more than just a couple millimeters. Plants have the ability to take up some nutrients beyond their needs, which is why they are such great filters. But we don't want to push this.

    I would only use Flourish Comp twice a week for the present. No Trace, no iron. Give this a few weeks and see.

    I'll get back to you on the GH thing once I'm able to find it. May have to go to my LFS to get it tested if it's not anywhere online, but I'll let you know soon!
    The water folks will likely be more accurate, so I would trust them first. If yo do get it tested, make sure they are using a liquid test, and get the number, not some vague meaningless term like "moderate" or something.

    And I will reduce one of the lights and just let the DHG would for another month before I decide if I want to try something else. I plan on doing a super cleaning of my tank either tonight or tomorrow and hopefully get most of the algae off. I also wanted to hear your opinion on the light I mentioned (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Trichr...upplies_text_z) and maybe if I should just replace one of the bulbs with one of these? The only problem I had using one light was it's very dark especially sing the water is tinted, and supposedly this light gives a brighter look to the tank. Plus I can get my money back if I return one of the lights by the 22nd if I end up not needing it anymore.
    The link doesn't work for me...but in any case, the idea is to reduce the intensity, and that means one of two tubes. But, having said that, what are the present tubes? Kelvin is important. Sorry I missed this earlier.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    The two I have at the moment are T5 5000K high output. The one I linked was 6500K and was recommended to be used with one of the 5000K bulbs but I didn't read that until recently.

    And I'll try and head back to the fish store if possible this week or this weekend and let you know the number. Will I need a testing of both the tap water and tank or just tap?

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Okay, after doing some more research, I checked my CO2 levels again and found a chart letting me know if I was in a good zone. Turns out I'm like, right in the good zone but just barely above too much CO2 (I have 39ppm CO2). For some reason, my PH went down drastically... It was 7.8 for the longest time, but now it's reading 6.8, and I got a new reading of 8 for carbon. Maybe because I did a water change tonight? Hmmm... Now I'm wondering... Is it possible that I have not found a balance with hours of lighting? I've been doing 12 hours on, 12 hours off and then at night the air pump goes on to help level out the CO2, but is it possible I used too much light?
    I agree with you that it must be the lighting itself that isn't balanced with everything else, because I have signs off too much lighting (java ferns transparency) that you mentioned. So maybe I should actually cut the hours of lights the tank gets each day rather than the actual light itself? My only problems with the lights are they are very yellow and dark, and with only one it's extremely dark to where I can barely see. It doesn't help when the tank is tinted brown too haha. I'll post a picture later when the lights go back on, but I fully understand if cutting one light is necessary. I just wanted to bring the whole CO2 levels up as well in case that makes sense of the overall problem.
    Again, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

  7. #17

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Picking up on issues from your last two posts here.

    First, the tubes. Yes, around 6500K is best for plants. What you have should work, but it will be a bit "warmer" whereas 6500K will appear "cooler" in colour. These terms refer to the amount of red and blue in the colour mix, warmer having more red and less blue, cooler the opposite. I use "daylight" tubes having a K of 6500K on all my tanks. My single tube tanks use Life-Glo tubes which are 6700K. These are on the "cool" side of white, which I find a pleasant hue and it renders plant and fish colours quite true.

    I would get one of the 6500K tubes, and then use only that one tube, during this trial.

    To the pH. Adding CO2 will lower the pH so no surprise there. Make sure you can shut off the CO2 during darkness. Not only is this wasting it because without sufficient light the plants cannot use it, but it runs the risk of increasing the CO2 and poisoning the fish. Most people with CO2 diffusion have it timed with the tank lights. And running an airstone at night is fine, but not during the day.

    Reducing the light duration can help with algae, but duration is not a substitute for intensity. If the light is too intense to balance, the duration will have little if any effect. Once you get the light balanced, the duration can be anything from a minimum of six hours up. This varies from tank to tank; my tanks have 8 hours each day of light, which is the max before algae becomes a nuisance.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Okay I'm going to order one of those lights right now and let's see if anything improves. And unfortunately since the CO2 is DIY, I can't turn it off but the air stone is only on at night to help that. Thanks for the help! I'll get that light and use it for a few weeks and will update in the future.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    -bump- update

    Got the daylight bulb and I have had it running a little less than 9 hours a day for a few days. I only dosed Flourish comp, but now my sword's and stems look worse. The swords are yellowing even more towards the tips, and some are beginning to get brown spots/holes on the leaves. The stems I have were starting to turn red from a few weeks of dosing iron everyday, but have turned back to green. Can't say much on the DHG because I don't see any excessive growth, but I've decided to leave it alone and see how it does in time.

    Do I need to start dosing all ferts? The swords are looking really bad.

  10. #20

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ku0915 View Post
    -bump- update

    Got the daylight bulb and I have had it running a little less than 9 hours a day for a few days. I only dosed Flourish comp, but now my sword's and stems look worse. The swords are yellowing even more towards the tips, and some are beginning to get brown spots/holes on the leaves. The stems I have were starting to turn red from a few weeks of dosing iron everyday, but have turned back to green. Can't say much on the DHG because I don't see any excessive growth, but I've decided to leave it alone and see how it does in time.

    Do I need to start dosing all ferts? The swords are looking really bad.
    Leaves that were already failing (yellowing) will not recover no matter what. When you re-balance, it is the subsequent growth that you look at.

    The brown spots are iron deposits, caused by the plant taking up too much iron. Often this is caused by a deficiency in calcium. I asked previously about the GH of the water but the number hasn't been posted yet...do you know ther GH? This is where your "hard" minerals like calcium and magnesium occur.

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

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