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Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. Default Ammonia lowering, Nitrates rising, but no Nitrites whatsoever


    0 Not allowed!
    A week or so ago I obtained a 55 gallon aquarium. I kept the old gravel, plants (fake), and decor in the tank. Plus there are tons of snails that I didn't notice until I filled the tank. Four days ago I finally purified the water and added some different gravel and river stone atop the old gravel. I also got a new filter (Tetra Whisper EX70). The old one (Tetra Whisper 10i) is in the tank as well but it only has foam in it, no bio-bag, But the foam has gunk on it so I'm assuming it is acting as a bio-filter on its own. When I did all of this I thought that I started my nitrogen cycle, however I forgot to get ammonia to add. So, before I went out and purchased some ammonia I tested the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The ammonia level was .25 (I assume that came from the snails), nitrite was 0 and nitrate was 5. The tank is heated to 80-82 degrees (200 watt heater), I have an air stone mid-tank and the water is clear. I was advised to add more ammonia, which I did. The other day I dosed the ammonia up to between 2 and 4 ppm. Today I decided to test the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, which I haven't tested since they were at 5. Over a period of 20 hours the ammonia had went from between 2 and 4 ppm to 1 ppm. The nitrites are still 0, but the nitrates are now between 20 and 40 ppm. Then I bumped the ammonia back up to between 2-4 ppm. I tested the water 24 hours later and the ammonia was at 0 ppm and the nitrates are now at least 40 ppm, but looks in between 40-60, however I still haven't seen the first nitrite. Is this abnormally quick considering I seeded the tank, and if so can I go ahead and do a water change when the ammonia reaches 0 again so that I can lower the nitrates and add some fish or plants. Also, I had regular tap water in the tank for about a day or two before I changed it and added dechlorinator, so does that mean that all of the seeded things I put in the tank were killed by the chlorine, and, if so, then why do I have more nitrates and lowering ammonia, but no nitrites?

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Also as I said there were lots of snails in the tank and during the movement of the tank, and new gravel on top of the old gravel, I'm sure that some of the snails died and I now that that can cause nitrates to rise. But I don't think that it could be a large enough amount to cause such a high rise in nitrates from the only 5.0 ppm in my tap water to the 40-60 ppm in my tank now in less than a week. And since the nitrates are so high should I do a water change and if so how much.

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm assuming you are taking about the same cycle in the same tank as the below thread:

    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...t=#post1175678

    If that is the case, my advice would remain the same. I would bring the ammonia back to 1 ppm, 2 or 3 more times to make sure it drops to 0ppm within 24 hours and your nitrites remain at 0ppm and your nitrates keep increasing. Provide that happens, I would say you would be cycled. Only at that point would I suggest adding fish after changing as close to 100% of the water as you can.

    A very short cycle is not completely out of the ordinary when using some seeded filter media, it can happen.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    +1 to Cliff's advice - sounds like you have cycled your tank very quickly but it is important to do as he advises to make sure you are where you need to be with your parameters before adding fish.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Is it possible that the reason ammonia is lowering so quickly is that my new filter has fresh carbon bio-bag in it? However, that would still not explain the nitrates. Sorry if I'm annoying, just trying to make sure the tank is actually cycled before I add any live plants or fish.

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Carbon will not remove ammonia. Your different types of bacteria are removing that and producing nitrates

    Test your tank a few more times to make sure your cycled and you'll be OK to add fish after changing as close to 100% of the water as possible
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    OK, so the ammonia is now lowering to basically 0 in 12 hours, so I have been re-dosing it every 12 hours to feed the bacteria until I add fish. Should I keep doing this? When I do the water change, how long will my bacteria last without fish to add ammonia? And, when I do the water change, should I vacuum the gravel? Or should I not do that for a period of time, so that the filter has time to grow more bacteria to compensate for the bacteria that would be sucked up the vacuum? And, since I'm going to have to add the water from 5 gallon buckets at a time and add dechlorinator it's going to take a while to fill the tank back up. Will going long without water in the filter kill the bacteria, or do I leave water in the filter while I change?

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Some answers to your questions below:
    1-Only dose ammonia once every 24 hours. You can reduce the amount of you would like as it takes less ammonia to keep your bacteria alive as compared to growing it.
    2-Your bacteria should be perfectly fine for a 24 period without a food source (ammonia)
    3-Almost all of the bacteria that you will need to keep the water safe for your fish will be in your filter. I would suggest starting to vac your gravel as a part of your weekly water changes after you add your fish.
    4-If you always keep your filter media in tank water when completing a water change, your bacteria will be fine
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I just got four baby Rasbora Heteromopha Danio, will they be sufficient to feed the ammonia or do I need more fish now? And how long before I can add more schooling fish, some bottom dwellers, and a center fish? I'm thinking six more Rasbora, 10 Jumbo Neon Tetra, maybe 6 Black Kuhli Loaches and a Black Tailed Shark for center.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    What I have been told about fishless cycling is that you can add your entire stocklist at once (perhaps excluding bottom dwellers) because you grow a very large amount of bacteria with the high ammonia levels used in fishless cycling
    46 gallon bowfront: 1 angelfish, 1 GBR, 1 albino longfin BNP, 3 sunset mickey mouse platies, 3 blue mickey mouse platies, 9 cherry barbs, 9 harlequin rasboras

    29 gallon dwarf puffer tank

    Scheming show tank #3....

    10 gallon pond snail breeding tank

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