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Results 51 to 60 of 91
  1. #51

    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sacramento, ca
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    0 Not allowed!
    I would only add the shrimp if I couldn't go with a green man. I've put in a lot of hiding spots in my LR with the way I built it up for the possibility of getting one. That's why I wanted to dose with pods now and then 6 months get the GM...but that's not for sometime and I'll do more research to make sure I can properly care for one.

    Which snails would suggest for the algea? Hopefully they won't breed to much lol
    Thanks for all your help

  2. #52

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Troop and Military Support - Amber Alert - Bladder Cancer - Endometriosis - Equality - Liver Cancer - Liver Disease - Missing Children - POW/MIA - Spina Bifida - Suicide - Strider199   

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    0 Not allowed!
    My Mexican Turbo snails mow down algae with gusto. They have been in the tank for some 9 months and haven't bred. I just went and bought three more. The original 2 are getting really large and can't reach some places anymore so thats why I bought the three new ones.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

  3. #53

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Thanks for the birthday wishes - mommy1   and gift - mommy1   Thanks for the rep - Cliff   Thanks for the rep, have a cool one on me, Cheers - Cliff   Thanks and a new fish for the tank - glarior   
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    0 Not allowed!
    Sorry I forgot to mention, when I was first looking at snails to add to my tank the Cerith snail was said to be a great addition as it do more for your tank then eat algae. It will also sift through the live sand not as well as the nassarius(sp). Once your tank has matured I would suggest adding a few nassarius(sp) so that sand bed gets some action.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

  4. #54

    Join Date
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    0 Not allowed!
    So questions for the group: Do you do weekly water changes? I've read on a few forums from people that never do water changes, just top offs to keep the tank level good, and that as long as the tank is cycled right it wouldn't need a change because the LR helps filter etc.

    Whats your guys say on this?

  5. #55

    Join Date
    May 2010
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    2 Not allowed!
    The main reason for the water change is to remove unwanted TDS and replenish the water with nutrients. It is easier to keep track of dosing that way. Also, the chemicals released by the inhabitants should be removed. Not changing the water can have long term ill effects. I doubt those people have kept their tank running for longer than 5 years without some sort of issues.

  6. #56

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    1 Not allowed!
    +1 to the above

    You still need to complete water changes to lower the long term build-up of things like TDS and nutrients which you do not want as well as replacing trace elements that get used up by corals and coraline algae. Even a weekly waterchange of 5% will help, but 10% is better. Keeping your parameters stable through waterchanges will also help to maintain and stabilize your tank for many years to come. Just goggle "old tank syndrome" and you will see what I mean

    I complete 10 to 15% weekly water changes. Sometimes even a little higher
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  7. #57

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Just a little somthing to get your gift section started :) - tanks4thememories   Thanks for the supportive post - for your SW tank - Cliff   From another goof - so you don't have to wait as long - Cliff   Aw shucks....   I'm flattered - Cliff   Merry X-mass - Cliff   

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    1 Not allowed!
    another +1 to above

    I was one of those people for a while who didn't do regular water changes.. everything was ok for the first year i would say, but then i kept having algae problems and other small problems that were frustrating... I would definitely say at least 10%
    55g Long --> After 18mo of doing well the tank crashed during moving. Most likely cause: Flatworm Die-off... won't start another until after moving... Likely not until late 2013

    20g Long --> currently concoting a build plan

    Check out the journal to follow my 20g SW tank

    "Take a chance, because you never know how perfect some things can turn out" -- unknown

  8. #58

    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    0 Not allowed!
    I always planned to do about 10 percent changes. Just some of what I read was conflicting.

    In other news my tank levels are coming up stable still after a week. I'm thinking of picking up my clowns on the next pay check haha ^-^

  9. #59

    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Soars as mentioned dosing which was going to be one of my questions for when I got corals. How do you know when you need to dose?

  10. #60

    Join Date
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    1 Not allowed!
    Api has a Calcium test which I use for my tank. Some test for magnesium.
    Unless your planning on having a few hard corals your weekly 10% water changes will replace those trace elements for the most part. I dont have sps corals only soft corals and I haven't dosed anything since I started my tank. My calcium level is always in the proper range.
    What were you planning to do the dosing for Sourly?
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

    Please remember; every keystroke has a consequence.

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