Aquarium Forum
 


Menu
  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

_________________
 
      
        Via paypal

  AC news is a part of
      Nature Blog Network

      Reef Aquarium Blog

Privacy & Ad Policy

Articles
  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 85
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ill have the wife do a test for me when she gets off work lol

  2. #32

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You have to keep in mind that the nitrate level in most of coral reefs is around 1ppm (most often a little less). I like to keep my nitrates at 1ppm in my reef tank, and most often it is lower than that. But I'm a little bit of a hard-nose when it comes to water parameters

    Below is a quote from another thread here about water changes and cycling a marine aquarium with live rock

    Although this is true with a fresh water fishless cycle, it is quite the opposite for a salt water cycle
    When cycling a tank with uncured live rock, the live rock will be covered with a biological film containing all the different types of beneficial Bactria. By the time the rock gets from the ocean to your tank, there will also be a lot of organisms that have died or are dyeing causing ammonia and proteins (among other stuff) to be released. The ammonia eating bacteria will feed on this and reproduce quickly. The bacteria that eats the proteins and turns it into ammonia will reproduce a lot faster than the ammonia eating ones, so the ammonia produced will/can actually grow to toxic enough levels that will prolong the cycle. This is why you have to do water changes if the ammonia reaches levels of 1 to 2 ppm or higher. The water change will help reduce the ammonia and other decaying particles from the tank helping the cycle complete faster and the water parameters become balanced quicker. Although there is some beneficial bacteria free floating in the water, it will be in such small amounts that water changes will not remove enough of them to be impactful in any way. Larger water changes will help the cycle move along faster, not slow it down one bit.
    Whether or not you find yourself in this situation will greatly depend on the amount of live rock in relation to the total amount of water in the setup. If you have 1 lb of uncured live rock per gallon of water when your cycling your tank, chances are you will run into this problem and will need to complete some water changes while cycling.
    When I was cycling my 90 tank (~120 gallons with the sump) I used ~35 lbs of uncured live rock and about 85 lbs of dry rock. The ammonia never went above 1 ppm. The tank took about 3 weeks to cycle. When I cured 45 lbs of live rock in my 20 gallon quarantine tank (for a different tank), I had to change 50% of the water about 6 or 7 times as the ammonia climbed several times to right around 2 ppm. In this case, the rock took about 3 to 4 weeks to cure.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    So I should keep doing changes till i get to around 1 or less? And also how can I tell then if LR is cured? I got mine from the lfs and it was soaking in a tank for a while

  4. #34

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    No different than when you have a cycled FW aquarium. Stable parameters, (0 ammonia and nitrates) and low nitrates. The below links can help

    http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012/cyc...rine-aquarium/

    http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/cur...ine-aquariums/
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ammonia is showing up at 0 however my nitrates have gone back up to about 20

  6. #36

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 20 nitrate?
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ammonia is 0 and nitrates are at 10. I don't know about nitrite as I don't have a text for that one. I need to pick up one for that and ph. I thought we had grabbed it at the store and I'm broke after a car issue :(

  8. #38

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    oohhhh sorry to hear about the car issues... they're always rough

    good news is that it sounds like you're coming up on the end of your cycle lol
    55g Long --> After 18mo of doing well the tank crashed during moving. Most likely cause: Flatworm Die-off... won't start another until after moving... Likely not until late 2013

    20g Long --> currently concoting a build plan

    Check out the journal to follow my 20g SW tank

    "Take a chance, because you never know how perfect some things can turn out" -- unknown

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah hopefully. Ill be doing another 50 change today to try and knock down the nitrates. Then check all my levels. Gonna hold off adding anything till I get all of my other two tests.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Nitrate's are down and reading as zero. I will be getting a PH test, and Nitrite test today and have do a full water perm test.

    However I seem to have this white algae on my rocks:
    20130917_091606.jpg20130917_091657.jpg
    I'm not sure if that's coming from the little bit of natural sunlight my tank gets at certain parts of the day, or what that stuff is. I've also noticed that on the side of one of those rocks it looks like a spiny some jagged formation is appearing on the side of the rock that according to my Wife wasn't there when we got the rock.

    On a side note, my Dusters seems to be doing well. I've noticed their filler things have gotten longer.

Page 4 of 9 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •