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Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
  1. Default What am I doing wrong with my Bristlenose Pleco


    0 Not allowed!
    I just lost my third BN pleco today and I have no idea why they keep dying. I have a 30g planted tank, the tank mates are 5 regular/green tiger barbs, 3 cherry barbs and a rainbow shark, I also added two nerite snales after the second died. The plants in the tank are two, approx 12in, amazon swords, some dwarf hairgrass (only in one corner not a carpet), an anubious nana, Java fern and two cardinal plants, I think they are cardinals they are as new as my last pleco was. There is a piece of driftwood in there leaning on the back of the tank so it creates shade, there is also a fake hollow log and a small cave type ornament. My light stays on for about 12 hrs per day, mainly because I turn it on at about 7:30 before work then I get home around 5:30 or 6 so I keep it on a little so I can see them.

    My first BN lasted about a week or two, he didn't seem to do much, the second lasted about six weeks, it was very active but I went out of town and when I got home it had vanished, I never found any trace of him. The last one lasted a week, he stayed under the driftwood most of the time but started to come out a little and stayed behind the heater. After the first I started feeding vegetables, mainly zucchini which he loved, I also gave him some brussel sprouts. The third never found the zucchini, I also tried wafers with this one but I don't think he found those either even though I put them right by him, but the barbs liked them.

    All the other fish have been doing just fine and when I have had my water tested it has been fine, they said the levels were good or maybe once something was just in an acceptable range. The first two plecos were from petsmart, the third was from a local non-chain store. I have done weekly water changes of at least 10% and I do 25% monthly. Is there anything I am doing wrong, what can I do different?

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm going to go with starvation and/or water issues.

    Do you know the exact parameters other than the LFS saying "it's fine"? Do you know the pH/hardness of your tank? 12 hours of light is also excessive. You can set a timer so that it'll turn on in the afternoon and go into the night time before you sleep but not to exceed 8 hours.

    How big are those tiger barbs? How did you prepare the veggies for them?
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    For the water test the PH was neutral, once I think it was slightly off but that was early on, ammonia and nitrites were zero, not sure the measurements on the hardness but once it was slightly on the hard side but within an acceptable range. I have not had issues with my other fish so I figured it wouldnt be the water.

    The tiger barbs are no more than about 1 1/2 in. The most aggressive in the tank is the rainbow shark but I have only seen that towards the barbs when they get fed and the come around the bottom, he would swim right by the pleco and not bother it at all and I have never seen any other fish bother them either.

    I boil the veggies for 1-2 mine then freeze them for later use. I then thaw them out and put a veggie clip on them or weigh them down to keep them on the bottom. For this latest pleco it could have starved but I never saw it on any of the food I gave it, it would just hide all the time.

    I thought the light could be an issue since it is on so long but I have also seen that you shouldn't turn it off and on throughout the day so that is why I leave it on after I feed them in the morning.

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    How big is the driftwood? Do you see the pleco chew on it at all?

    What is your nitrate at?

    As for the lights, just set a timer for the afternoon going until you sleep. This way, you can see your tank at night after work. 8 hours is enough. Are you having any algae issues?
    Think with logic and rationality more than emotion. Act with moderation and consideration. Contemplate ideals and realistic goals and weigh out possibilities and options. Temper not with personal delusions or false hope but learn to accept and move on.

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    12 hours of light won't bother fish. We don't have a water quality picture.

    nitrates?
    ph?
    hardness?

    With only 2 plants is there any shelter at all for this fish?

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    As spardas says : add some "soft" wood they can eat of and realize they go crazy for bloodworms, high protein tablets as well. They are omnivores and not only herbivores. Mine will be the first ar the Cory-pellets for that. Though on cumcumber as well !!!
    No Cory, No Glory !!

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I concur with what has been mentioned, and it may be a combination of these issues. Bristlenose are in the Ancistrus genus, though the exact species of the common "bristlenose" is not known, and many suggest it is a hybrid, which is why it is so tolerant of parameters provided they are not excessively hard. It is omnivorous though primarily vegetarian, but meaty as well as veggie based foods are necessary. Algae would be wise especially at first, as this fish is primarily an algae grazer. We don't know the feeding conditions prior to its arrival in your tank, and it may have been nearly starved and beyond hope, like many otos are. It needs wood, you have that.

    Ancistrus species are basically nocturnal, so minimum light (have floating plants) will help to bring it out more, and I agree to lessen the duration.

    The other thing that stands out to me is the shark. These are often intolerant of other substrate dwellers, and even if you have not noticed any aggression, it may still occur when you are not there, or at night. I acknowledge this is general, and some individual fish may react fine, but it is a possible. And any stress added to the introduction stress can often be one level of stress too much, especially if the fish is already weakened.

    Byron.

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I would suggest 50% water changes every week, along with cleaning the substrate - at least half the tank at a time. A well-fed pleco is going to poop a lot. I have 4 BN's in different tanks and this is one of my favorite fish. Sorry you are having such trouble with yours.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I checked my water to be sure of the condition. The PH is 7.5, my tap water is the same. My ammonia is .25ppm, nitrites 0ppm, and nitrates were at 40ppm before a 25% water change, down to about 10ppm after the change. Alkalinity is about 140ppm which looks like 7.84 when converted to dKH. I have looked at two sites for pH level for a BN and one said 6.5-7.4 the other 7-8 so either I am just out of the range or right in the middle. The temp is about 77 degrees.

    The drift wood is roughly in a triangle shape and about 9in on each side. It leans against the back wall so the underside is all in shade. Most other shade is from the two tall Amazon Swords and then two ornaments, one is a hollow log about 12in long the other is a rock structure with a hollow center that is about 7in by 8in. There is not a ton of shade, my hope was the Java Fern would grow to shade a bit of the back of the tank.

    I have thought about cutting down the feedings on my other fish to one a day and cutting down light time. The less feeding should drop that ammonia to 0 and the light should help him come out. However as my tank is in my dining room there is usually ambient light from elsewhere so it will not be incredibly that dark, but it won’t be direct overhead light. When I do a water change I always use a siphon and clean the rocks, but with plants I try to stick away from their base so I am not pulling up their roots. I used to get a bit of a green film over the rocks in the front of my tank and a bit on the glass, I would vacuum the rocks and wipe down the glass and it would take about a week to come back. Over that last few weeks the amount has dropped quite a bit and there is only a little that shows up each week. The front of the drift wood is still covered in green though.

    I am very new at keeping an aquarium so thanks for all the help.

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by starknaked25 View Post
    I checked my water to be sure of the condition. The PH is 7.5, my tap water is the same. My ammonia is .25ppm, nitrites 0ppm, and nitrates were at 40ppm before a 25% water change, down to about 10ppm after the change. Alkalinity is about 140ppm which looks like 7.84 when converted to dKH. I have looked at two sites for pH level for a BN and one said 6.5-7.4 the other 7-8 so either I am just out of the range or right in the middle. The temp is about 77 degrees.

    The drift wood is roughly in a triangle shape and about 9in on each side. It leans against the back wall so the underside is all in shade. Most other shade is from the two tall Amazon Swords and then two ornaments, one is a hollow log about 12in long the other is a rock structure with a hollow center that is about 7in by 8in. There is not a ton of shade, my hope was the Java Fern would grow to shade a bit of the back of the tank.

    I have thought about cutting down the feedings on my other fish to one a day and cutting down light time. The less feeding should drop that ammonia to 0 and the light should help him come out. However as my tank is in my dining room there is usually ambient light from elsewhere so it will not be incredibly that dark, but it won’t be direct overhead light. When I do a water change I always use a siphon and clean the rocks, but with plants I try to stick away from their base so I am not pulling up their roots. I used to get a bit of a green film over the rocks in the front of my tank and a bit on the glass, I would vacuum the rocks and wipe down the glass and it would take about a week to come back. Over that last few weeks the amount has dropped quite a bit and there is only a little that shows up each week. The front of the drift wood is still covered in green though.

    I am very new at keeping an aquarium so thanks for all the help.
    I am seeing a bit more now, with this information. This is why we all ask for the data; many factors are interconnected.

    Your pH is fine. Ranges for pH are approximate and not exact, something to aim for. You're fine. The ammonia and nitrate are not, I'll come back to these.

    The green film/algae is/was due to the light, so reducing the duration will help. Other than this, you are fine with the light, don't worry about more shade, that sounds OK.

    Next issue though is the ammonia and high nitrates; ammonia should never be above zero, and nitrates at 40ppm is to me very high. I know, you will read some people think this is fine, but I can assure you it is not; many sources are now recommending 20ppm as absolute maximum, and 10ppm is better. And lowering to 10ppm after the water change tells us the nitrate is within the tank, not in the tap water, so that is easier to solve. This also had something to do with that algae, as the nitrates indicate organics, and that is food for algae if the plants can't use it first.

    SudD mentioned this in her post, and I agree. More regular water changes to keep the nitrates down are needed. Pleco are waste factories, as some call them, but you can manage it with weekly partial water changes, vacuuming the substrate where it is open. Change half the tank volume every week, use a good conditioner. This will help all the fish.

    I guess the pleco is dead, so before getting another I would suggest you decide on the pleco or the shark.

    Byron.

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