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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    They look skinny and your PH was/is to high for them. I tried keeping them in a planted 55gal for a while and it was to hard and they would never get enough food. This is just my thoughts and experiences, but I would never keep them in anything bigger then a 10 or 20 without other fish in it. Heavily planted with a PH around 6.5 has worked for me. I have got them to breed but never raised their fry.

  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    33g July 2-10 (3).JPG70g Jan 13-10.JPGI have spawned and reared fry to adult stage with this species, Sphaerichthys osphromenoides, and in the same tank I also had the sister species, S. selatanensis. I see some issues from your information--pH, temperature, tankmates, sex ratio and light. The GH (hardness) is not mentioned, but this is critical too.

    This fish must have warmth, 80F or above. More females than males is best, although having more than one male is worth it because of their natural interactions which are fascinating. The pH must be acidic, below 7. My tank ran in the low 6's but I had better luck when they were in the 5's. The water must absolutely be soft or very soft (mine was near-zero in GH). Floating plants are essential, as they do not like bright light and they spend their time browsing leaves and dangling roots; Ceratopteris cornuta (Water Sprite, India Fern) is ideal, but the stem plant Hygrophila difformis (Wisteria) also works if allowed to grow partially floating. With a thick cover of floating plants, some fry will survive and grow even without intervention, just from the natural live foods and infusoria in the plants. Dried leaves would be good too.

    Tankmates need to be carefuly chosen. Rasbora as someone mentioned work well, the smaller species such as those in Boraras or the three Trigonostigma species (common Harlequin, or even more the two related species). Tankmates must be quiet and sedate, and from your list the rainbows I would leave out, and the Badids. The anchor cat I am not familiar with.

    Skin problems occur very easily when water parameters or quality is not where this fish wants/expects it, and that is what I am seeing in the photos.

    Being so sensitive to water, one must be very careful with additives, and here I would never use Excel. Personally, I would never use this product in any tank with live fish. It is comprised of glutaraldehyde, which is a highly toxic disinfectant that is used in embalming fluid, anti-freeze, as a sterilizer in hospitals, in ship ballasts to kill bacteris--you get the idea. In my view any substance like this has no place in an aquarium. At normal recommended dose it will kill some plants (Vallisneria is particularly sensitive), but if overdosed can kill plants, bacteria and fish. The FDA gives a health warming for use of this product.

    The first photo attached is of my 33g with these fish, and the second is a 70g with the same fish. These will illustrate the plants issue. Click photos for enlargements.

    You can find more detail here, a profile of this species that I authored:
    http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...noides-177514/
    Last edited by Byron; 08-21-2013 at 04:46 PM.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks for your input Byron, looks like you really know what you're doing! It's unfortunate that these guys aren't quite fit for my tank. As I'd love to keep them, it's not quite feasible to convert my entire show tank to their needs. I'll be making a trip to the store tonight to return them, before they get too stressed by my water parameters.
    One point that you brought up is that you thought the badids may be a poor tankmate. The rainbows make sense, but my badids (Dario dario) are extremely calm in temperament. Is there something else about them that makes them a poor choice? As for the anchor cats, they stick to the crevices between rocks and under leaves, rarely coming out. I would say they're similar to corydoras in temperament.
    Also, about the gluteraldehyde.. I'm familiar with its medical and sterilizing uses, but isn't that only when the activator is added? I'm not sure what the activator consists of, but I am aware that when buying Metricide (gluteraldehyde solution) it comes with an additive that must be added to the gluteraldehyde before use. In the aquarium use, this activator is never used. Regardless, I agree that adding chemicals is not good, but I am dosing 25% below the recommended level.
    Last edited by mcphatty; 08-21-2013 at 05:04 PM.

  4. #14

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    0 Not allowed!
    There are several species sold under the name Badis Badis. There is atleast 2-3 species that are common. 4 if you ad Dario Dario that is sometimes also sold as Badis Badis. All them very similar but there is also important differences in temperament and size. Which exact species you have would decide whether they could work with the chocolates or not.

    There is loads of bad information about badis in stores. Much of it old outdated info. I have as an example seen them sold as cichlids on multiple occasions.
    Do as I say. Not as I do.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by William View Post
    There are several species sold under the name Badis Badis. There is atleast 2-3 species that are common. 4 if you ad Dario Dario that is sometimes also sold as Badis Badis. All them very similar but there is also important differences in temperament and size. Which exact species you have would decide whether they could work with the chocolates or not.

    There is loads of bad information about badis in stores. Much of it old outdated info. I have as an example seen them sold as cichlids on multiple occasions.
    I believe the ones I have are Dario dario, with the possibility of two being Dario hysignon. Of the 6 I have, the majority look like the picture I've attached. Two of the ones I have though are the same size, but slightly darker and without the bands being as evident.


  6. #16

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Dario Dario is considerable more timid than Badis Badis. In my experince atleast.
    Do as I say. Not as I do.

  7. #17

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, the pictured fish is Dario dario. The three species in this genus, being Dario dario, D. dayingensis and D. hysginon, would be fine. I would still suggest more plants; these fish are timid too, as William mentioned, even though males can be rather territorial with each other.

    These fish were placed in the genus Dario which was erected by Kullander and Britz in 2002 for D. dario and the two other species that were newly described at the same time.

    I've only had D. dario, and found it difficult to feed. Live foods seemed necessary with mine, and they gradually wasted away on prepared foods. Have you had better luck?

    Byron.
    Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
    Vancouver, BC, Canada

    Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Byron View Post
    I've only had D. dario, and found it difficult to feed. Live foods seemed necessary with mine, and they gradually wasted away on prepared foods. Have you had better luck?
    They seem to be taking to prepared foods alright, I'll usually see one during feeding time grab a food pellet and take it back to its nest amongst the Cryptocoryne parva. There is an aquatic bug (possibly daphnia or moina) population as well, which I suspect is the main staple for those guys.

  9. #19

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    0 Not allowed!
    Back when I kept them they would eat most frozen food that was small enough. I kept and bred them with peacock gobies and few other small species.

    They did fight with eachother but not with other species.
    Do as I say. Not as I do.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    The fading color is definitely not just an odd coloration; you're right on the money when you suspect it's stress. When I started with chocolate gouramis as a newbie I kept three in a 5 gallon planted set-up, much like the one at the LFS I bought them from... For all sorts of reasons I won't go into you can just imagine how stressed out they might have been. They were pale in color at the LFS and they were pale in color in my 5 gallon setup; my friend also kept a single chocolate gourami in a planted Fluval Spec V and his gourami was pale in color too. Having acquired more knowledge on keeping them from browsing the web, I bough one more chocolate, took the other from my friend, and swapped them all into a 10 gallon planted setup where they were housed alone... and they thrived! They colored up within a day, and that setup worked perfectly for just over a year (Aqueon Quiet Flow + sponge filter for added aeration, 82 f temp, lots of guppy weed for hiding, diet of frozen bloodworms, Hikari micro pellet). Eventually I upgraded to a 20 gallon planted setup where their only other tank mates were a small school of rummy nose tetras and dwarf corydoras which probably put the tank over capacity, but it worked until a tragic moving accident when I discovered that chocolates are "jumpers"... I won't go into detail, but I should also note that before said accident I had experimented with a german blue ram (big mistake, as it was harassed by some gouramis while others were skittish around it) and dwarf neon rainbows (another mistake, as they also made the gouramis skittish and outcompeted them for food) but those proved to not be suitable tank mates. I suspect the chocolates thrive in species-only setups and setups where they have peaceful, tiny tank mates (such have been the setups in the displays I have seen of successful mixed communities housing chocolates, one at a LFS in Santa Monica and the other in San Francisco).

    All that said, I'm beginning to forget where I was headed with this... Oh yeah, the pH! My water was straight from the Los Angeles tap and the pH varied from 7.6-7.8, from what I can remember... My chocolate gouramis never reproduced, but they seemed to thrive otherwise. I would keep a close eye on the tank mates yours have just to be absolutely certain they aren't being bullied or scared. Also, if possible, I would suggest buying two more chocolates just so that the aggression is "spread out" amongst their species so to say; even with 5 in a heavily planted setup, mine still had the occasional squabbles but nothing as serious as when they were only 3.

    Hope that helps! Best of luck!
    Last edited by koaladarshana; 03-02-2014 at 05:28 AM. Reason: (Bad grammar... LOL)

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