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Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. Default 20 gallon tank - fish swimming erratic


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi all,

    A friend of mine referred me to this forum for help.

    I have a 20 gallon tank that I've had for about a month and half. My fish have been doing fine until recently when I spotted ich on one of the clown loach. Then I noticed all of the clown loach would constantly hang around the heater all the time. I have been doing 7-9 day water changes and about 15-20% of it. I decided to buy ich attack medication yesterday and placed a bit in the tank yesterday, then put up the temperature of the tank a bit. It used to be around 78-80, now it's at 82 to get the ich cycle going. I need to apply the medication again, but my problem is I'm noticing all my fish swimming erractically and frankly, I'm a bit frightened.

    I just did a 15% water change yesterday. I tested my water levels just now and to my surprise the nitrate and nitrite levels are unusually high! The ammonia seems to be around 0.25, nitrite around 0.25ppm and nitrate pretty close to 3.5 PPM. It's got a very close to bright orange indicating levels near 5 PPM.

    I have 3 baby clown loaches, 2 cobra endler guppy and 2 platy fish.

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    When you add meds and more heat, you will typically lower the oxygen levels in the water. try adding a extra airstone for now

    Also, it is usually best to try either meds, or heat & salt method. Trying different combinations of the two approaches can complicate things more than what is necessary.

    Once you have worked through the ick, maybe we can talk about the stocking of your tank.

    And Welcome to the forum
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi and welcome to the ac
    your first problem is that your tank isn't cycled. You would see 0 ammonia and 0 nitrates if it was.
    The second is that clown loaches should not ever be added to a tank unless it's cycled as the toxins settle at the bottom and bottom dwellers are the first affected.
    another problem - clown loaches belong in a much larger tank. they may be small now but a 90 gallon would be the minimum required for clowns.

    What to do? I don't know what ich medication you're using but my advice would be to stop using it, do a massive water change - as in 75% (making sure that you replace the old water with water of the same temp and that you treat the water with enough dechlorinator to dose the entire 20 gallons).
    If you have carbon for your filter, put it in the filter so it will absorb any of the left over medication.
    Do another large W/C tomorrow to remove as much of the left over medication as possible always replacing with same temp water and treating with dechlorinator.

    To treat the ich get your tank temp up to 86. Leave it there for 7 - 10 days after you see the last spot on your last fish.

    In the mean time, check your ammonia and nitrites every day to make certain they don't get above .25ppm while you are cycling. If they do, then make another water change. Your nitrates are fine and will also be kept down by the water changes. If you don't have an API liquid master test kit, I'd invest in one asap as strips are notoriously inaccurate.

    Once you get the ich eradicated and get your tank cycled (meaning your are consistently seeing 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites), you should make weekly maintenance W/C of 30 - 50% depending on your nitrate reading. Nitrates should be kept below 20ppm

    Please ask continue to ask questions if you need clarification and good luck with your tank

    Edit: Cliff and I were posting at the same time. I agree with his take. Meds or Heat. I'd go for the heat. much safer for the fish. And I don't believe loaches like salt = but I could be wrong..
    Last edited by fishmommie; 08-18-2013 at 01:28 AM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I will go ahead and do 75% water change then.

    The ich treater I was using is called:
    Kordon Ich Attack 100% Natural Ich Treatment

    I'll have to look for a good airstone to buy. Thanks very much guys, I hope this helps them.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff View Post
    When you add meds and more heat, you will typically lower the oxygen levels in the water. try adding a extra airstone for now

    Also, it is usually best to try either meds, or heat & salt method. Trying different combinations of the two approaches can complicate things more than what is necessary.

    Once you have worked through the ick, maybe we can talk about the stocking of your tank.

    And Welcome to the forum
    Hello - Any specific air stone that is good in the market? I know 20g is small and I plan on going to at least 50g or more once I find a good enough deal.

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I used the same medication for the ich I got in the beginning - it worked fine for me - just need to read the instructions - any airstone will do but make sure that the air pump you purchase to operate it is rated for the right sized tank.

    Also, don't stop using the medication until at least a week or two after you see the last spot on your fish - even if you don't see spots, there could still be ich in the substrate multiplying - it's at that stage that the medication will kill it, not when it's on the fish.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ok. It's getting kind of late. I only have one filter running. Is it alright for me to take the filter cartridge out, leave the filter running, and put some of the ich medicine in. Let it run overnight and put the cartridge back in the morning? I think I've discovered that the clown loach may be hanging around near the heater not because of how cold or warm the water is, but to hang on to something to stay near the top of the water. I'm guessing they may not be getting enough oxygen, although my other fish did not have a problem with this until recently. It seems that the air stone is a must at this point.

    I am going to purchase this - http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Wh...words=airstone 20 gallon version) and http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Soft-Air..._petsupplies_4. Is there anything else anyone recommends I get?

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If you remove your filter cartridge, and it's your only filter media, then you are removing any beneficial bacteria you may have built up which you need to complete your cycle. Why do you want to remove it? If it's because it has carbon in it, then none of the medication you've used so far will do any good as the carbon will leach up the meds. If the carbon is over a month old, however, it most likely will not be effective in removing medication any more and if you chose to continue with medication, you do not have to remove it..

    Again, if your cartridge is your only source of filter media, then you can't take it out as you lose any BB you have built up. You would have no choice but to go with the heat method because of the carbon issue. I would strongly suggest you also get some biomax for your filter so the BB has more places to colonize and grow.

    For what it's worth, I've used the Kordan Ich Attack before but did not have good results like Imma did. Every tank is different. The Kordan worked for her (and I'm sure it works for many others ) Heat worked for my tank each of the 2 times I had to treat for ich and after the second time, I've never had an issue again - that was almost a year ago.
    Again, I'm not saying the Kordan product doesn't work. Just saying it didn't work in my situation for whatever reason.
    Good luck with what ever method you chose.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Haha, just found out that Dan posted under my name. He's one of my neighbors and came over here last night. Guess he posted logging into my account (autosaved) instead of his.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    My update on this is that 2 clown loach have died so far. My pleco seems to have been infected however. I canot seem to get my heater to go past 84, it's always 82-84ish. It's a top fin heater and it's impossible to tell which is + or - since there are no signs. Just has a dash in the middle. Will buying any new heater do? Also, I bought a second filter, one that's more powerful - AquaClear 30 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 30 Carbon, AquaClear 30 Foam & AquaClear 30 BioMax). So I have two filters running and I know I saw a difference in better behavior with the fish since I installed it two days ago. I tried to feed my pleco other things like broccoli or zuchinno and he won't eat anything.
    Last edited by dankeefe; 08-23-2013 at 10:58 AM.

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