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Results 11 to 20 of 36
  1. #11

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You have lights on the side that are always on? How are they situated on the side and how is the Betta supposed to escape lights that are on the side, that are always on?

    It could be this is stressing him out, since any kind of light (even moon-lighting) could be an irritant. Running them for a few hours at night isn't going to harm anything, but keeping them on all the time might be a factor.

    I used to use strip tests for my water params, but I can attest to their lack in reliability. I would suggest upgrading to a liquid test kit, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater.../dp/B000255NCI
    Adventures in Aquaria - The KevinVA Story

    When in doubt, ask yourself... W.W.L.S (What would Lee Say)?

    Have a fish problem? Fill out and post this completed questionnaire in the General Aquarium Forum, when you start a new thread.

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    1: They're on a back corner and situated to only shoot across the back half of the tank (give or take a little)

    2: Again; plants, decoration and floating betta log, trust me when I say there are dark zones in my tank.

    3: I turned them completely off last night and he actually seemed worse this morning (plus my Oto apparently forgot that he shouldn't go INSIDE the output tube of the UV sterilizer.)

    I have a liquid test kit, but it only does Ph. I'm going to the store tomorrow for more (good test strips, so I'll see if they have a full kit... but they always seem to be out when I go. The strips seem to do pretty well for me (the ones I like are API and I leave them in a shelf-drawer thing in the fridge)
    1 Tank: 15 gal;???

    2 Tank: 40 gal; fish: 2 Bronze Corys. 4 Mollies. 1 Albino Rainbow Shark. 1 Guppies. 2 snails. ? cherry barbs. 1 Betta Male, 2 Otos.

    Q-Tank; 1 Molly, 2 Bronze Corys.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    no matter where you put those strips they are not reliable.
    besides if you buy the liquid test kit, it will save you money in the long run
    i hear some people say, "i kept a goldfish in a bowl and it lived for a year."
    they don't know how lucky they were and all goldfish live at least 15 years in proper conditions.
    that is equal to saying my human lived in his closet for 5 years!

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    went out and got a liquid test for ammonia (not API, it's some generic freshwater test kit from walmart.) It said I had 0 ppm ammonia.
    1 Tank: 15 gal;???

    2 Tank: 40 gal; fish: 2 Bronze Corys. 4 Mollies. 1 Albino Rainbow Shark. 1 Guppies. 2 snails. ? cherry barbs. 1 Betta Male, 2 Otos.

    Q-Tank; 1 Molly, 2 Bronze Corys.

  5. #15

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Why not try another water change and see how he reacts? Could be something we're not seeing or testing for.
    Adventures in Aquaria - The KevinVA Story

    When in doubt, ask yourself... W.W.L.S (What would Lee Say)?

    Have a fish problem? Fill out and post this completed questionnaire in the General Aquarium Forum, when you start a new thread.

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Wouldn't that just stress him out more? I know it throws everyone else into a tizzy when I change the water, in all of my tanks. Heck, my mollies in my 40 gallon even attack my gravel vacuum.
    1 Tank: 15 gal;???

    2 Tank: 40 gal; fish: 2 Bronze Corys. 4 Mollies. 1 Albino Rainbow Shark. 1 Guppies. 2 snails. ? cherry barbs. 1 Betta Male, 2 Otos.

    Q-Tank; 1 Molly, 2 Bronze Corys.

  7. #17

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Unless you're allowing the water to flow like a raging river back into the tank with water params that don't match your current water, it shouldn't stress anything out. They "attack" the gravel vacuum, because they're curious. Hell, almost all of my fish nip at my fingers/arms, when I'm changing things in my 75gal community tank. I'm sure if they were afraid/stress out about my being in there, they'd heat to the other side of the tank.

    Just be sure you're adding dechlorinated water with around the same temp, & same (or at least close) ph and you'll be fine.
    Adventures in Aquaria - The KevinVA Story

    When in doubt, ask yourself... W.W.L.S (What would Lee Say)?

    Have a fish problem? Fill out and post this completed questionnaire in the General Aquarium Forum, when you start a new thread.

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Just did a water change, I apparently scared the ever loving crap out of my barbs in the process (WHY! WHY DO YOU MORONS SWIM INTO THE VACUUM!!!!?) We'll see if it makes any difference...
    1 Tank: 15 gal;???

    2 Tank: 40 gal; fish: 2 Bronze Corys. 4 Mollies. 1 Albino Rainbow Shark. 1 Guppies. 2 snails. ? cherry barbs. 1 Betta Male, 2 Otos.

    Q-Tank; 1 Molly, 2 Bronze Corys.

  9. #19

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    lol, I think more active fish like the flow of water. My Barbs do the same thing - so did my GBRs, actually (and a Cory). Pretty sure it's the flow.
    Adventures in Aquaria - The KevinVA Story

    When in doubt, ask yourself... W.W.L.S (What would Lee Say)?

    Have a fish problem? Fill out and post this completed questionnaire in the General Aquarium Forum, when you start a new thread.

  10. #20

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    As an experienced longtime Betta keeper, I can assure you barbs are not "ideal mates" for Betta. Any site telling you this well, I'd question their integrity. Barbs, even cherry barbs that are peaceful..... are peaceful active flash fish that will stress the daylights out of a Betta, even if they aren't nippy. I don't mean to sound argumentative, but I don't know a single Betta expert that would recommend barbs with Betta. Barbs are the #1 species I warn against in Betta keeping. Fish do not need to be aggressive to be bad Betta mates, the colors and activity level can often cause more problems and undo stress.

    If your Betta is actually "adhered" to the filter intake, something is seriously terribly wrong. Either from stress, or illness, or stress induced illness. I would expect its the latter. In reading your posts, there are a lot of things awry that I am sure are not intentional, or that you just didn't realize could be causing stress induced illness and possible risk of death in your beloved Betta.

    Wrong tank-mates, or, tank mates at all. Some Betta are best left alone, they do not need to show signs of aggression towards others for there to be a problem. Lackluster attitude and weakening is a sure sign of stress, which will, without doubt ultimately kill your fish.

    Wrong environment, which means, when housing a Betta, the atmosphere should be geared directly toward the Betta, and then tank mates chosen that fit the habitat of the Betta, never the other way around. In a ten gallon, a filter plus a uv sterilizer moving water is much much too much flow for a Betta who like tranquil placid water.

    The lights are also an issue. A Betta's natural habitat is rice paddies, shaded by huge amounts of vegetation. The water is also murky, letting in very faint filtered light, with a definite night period of extreme darkness. Having a light on, even a dim one or "moon lights" will without doubt cause a great amount of stress. Though it may look lovely (it often does), he won't be enjoying it very much.

    76-78 is too cold for Betta. Betta require between 80-82, which is often why they are not recommended to live with other tropical fish. At the very least strive for a temperature between 78-80, 80 preferable. Low temps not only cause stress, but will weaken the Betta over time.

    In short the best advice if you are unable to isolate him in his own tank, is to at least raise the temps, lower the flow rate of the tank, and turn off the lights. This may help, but if he's been severely stressed, he may not spring back.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

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