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Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. Default Somebody set me straight please!!!! Conflicting advice :(


    0 Not allowed!
    Hey everyone, Thanks for taking the time to read this.

    So I'm doing this fish-less cycling, (using shrimp) my ammonia (pure, no surfactant) is on it's way in the post :D Please could somebody clarify some of my questions, as there is some truly conflicting advice out there!

    1) During fishless cycling of a 60litre (uk) aquarium, should one perform partial water changes or not? If so, why?

    2) During a spike in nitrIte levels, what level of ammonia should there be? (I am currently at 0.25ppm) Some say this is perfect, others say this is far too low and I should be adding more ammonia to increase the level? If so, what is an adequate value for ammonia at this stage if my nitrIte readings are 5.00ppm. (No change in NitrAte levels at this point- tap water is 40ppm).

    3) I have noticed (day 14) a flaky grey substance, very small, light in texture, found on my driftwood, It wasn't there yesterday? what could this be?

    4) I was advised to purchase sand for my aquarium, unfortunately my filter (Elite stingray 15) seems to alter the dispersion of sand, creating waves in the sand bed lol Any advice to stop my filter from doing this?

    Thank you in advance, if you could answer any of those long winded questions lol I'd be grateful! Cheers

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    1. The reason you have to change water during a fish in cycle is to prevent the ammonia from rising too high and killing the fish. In a fish in cycle, their has to be a balance between enough ammonia to cycle the tank but not enough to kill. Since you are fish less cycling, there should not be a need to do water changes. Water changes will only remove bacteria food and should only be done in case you accidentally overdosed ammonia.

    2. I've never cycled a tank(always having used media from someone else) but from what I read a constant 2-4 ppm is the way to go. Too low and bacteria starve or grow slowly, too high and the concentration will get dangerous for bacteria themselves.

    3. Sorry, no idea. Could be fungus, could be residue from something, some people who use a certain dechlorinator(forgot exact one) have reported a chemical reaction with ammonia that leaves whitish residue...

    4. I assume that the outflow current of the filter is striking the sand and blowing it into undesirable dunes? You could put a large decoration where the water strikes, such as a rock or a piece of driftwood, or you could create a baffle for the filter to disperse the current.

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Sounds like you are confusing a fishless cycle with cycling with fish. Both are very different from each other

    For a fishless cycle in 60L aquarium, you should start your cycle with around 2ppm. If I am remembering that is what you started out with. Once you get a large nitrite spike, you reduce the ammonia level in half (to about 1ppm). As you are cycling without fish, this is the approach you want to take

    Only when you are cycling with fish do you want to keep the ammonia down around 0.25ppm by completing waterchsnges
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    hi
    read the fishless cycle stickie in my signature line and that will help clarify things for you.
    good luck and good for you for going fishless!
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thank you very much lol greatly helpful, i'll dose up on the ammonia when it arrives in the post :) considering how I only started testing around day 5 into the cycle, i don't really know what the ammonia peaked to (i used shrimp) but i know when i did test it, it was 0.50ppm and has lowered to 0.25ppm since. Anyhoo, so when it does arrive i'll just dose it up to around 2-4ppm. Will having an ammonia level this low stall the cycling process? Or is this too difficult to tell. In response, the filter outflow is not hitting the sand, its a couple inches above.. But I will defo try adding stones thank you. Also I was told that performing a water change was necessary (in fishless) as it would ensure my high nitrIte readings (5ppm) would not stall the tank, and kill off good bacteria.. But i'll stay away from water changes for now :)
    Last edited by spacecowgirl; 08-11-2013 at 01:04 PM.

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Too low and too high of a ammonia level usally will slow things down a little

    If you dose your ammonia up to 4 ppm in a 60L (15 gallon) tank during the nitrite spike will slow things down a lot for you right now. Dose it up to 1 ppm

    Have you read the thread here that explains the fishless cycle yet (as fishmommie has suggested) ?

    There is a link to it in my sig
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah I have read it thanks, it's just very difficult to follow advice specified for fishless cycling for individuals using a pure ammonia source... As I am using a shrimp source, it's difficult to determine in terms of volumes etc lol The reason i did use a shrimp source is because under new legislation, pure ammonia in the uk has become almost impossible to locate, even online its a nightmare, but I have sourced some! Thanks for the feedback guys :)

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    #3: If the grayish flaking substance starts forming on say, the heater cups as well (suction cups), chances are its minerals in the water calcifying. If you brush it off and it flakes away leaving what looks like "gray" fish food in the water, its mineralization.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by spacecowgirl View Post
    During a spike in nitrIte levels, what level of ammonia should there be? (I am currently at 0.25ppm) Some say this is perfect, others say this is far too low and I should be adding more ammonia to increase the level? If so, what is an adequate value for ammonia at this stage if my nitrIte readings are 5.00ppm. (No change in NitrAte levels at this point- tap water is 40ppm).
    Until you get your ammonia, it's hard to advise on ammonia level since you have to wait for your shrimp to rot 1st - if you are getting a reading (and even a spike) for nitrites, you are well on your way! At least you know that you need to maintain a decent amount of ammonia to keep feeding the bacteria already present.
    After getting your ammonia, you will want to dose up to about 1.0ppm but maintaining your ammonia level until then will hopefully work. It sounds like your cycling is well along - whatever ammonia you put in there will probably fall to 0 pretty fast
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

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