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  1. #1

    Default Questions about setting up a quarantine tank


    0 Not allowed!
    As some of you may know I am working (slowly but surely) on setting up my 29g. At the same time I've started to think about a quarantine tank, to make sure I have everything i need, and I had a couple of questions.

    First, how big of a tank would I need? The stocking plan (for now, at least) fr the 29g starts with about 9 endlers (no QT needed as they will go first), but then I will be adding 10 Venezuelan Pygmy Cories (coridoras habrosus), followed by 10 cardinal tetras, and finally 2 GBRs. I will wait at least about 4-6 weeks between additions to make sure the tank is stable before introducing any new species.

    First question, which will affect the size of the QT I need: is adding 10 fish at the same time a bad idea (for the cories and cardinals)? Should I divide the cories and cardinals into two separate additions of 5 fish each, or is it ok to add the 10 at once?

    If I need to divide cories and cardinals into 2 groups, my QT will need to house, at different times, the following: 5 venezuelan pygmy cories, 5 cardinal tetras, and finally the 2 GBRs. If I can add 10 fish at once then it will need to house 10 cories, 10 cardinals, and the 2 GBRs. I know that the quarantine period should be about 2 weeks or so. So, how big of a QT do I need for this?

    Right now the only tank I have I could use for a QT is a small 2.5 gallon with a HOB filter rated for 10 gallons. Is this good for any type of use as a QT? If I go with the 2.5, how many cories or cardinals could I have in there at the same time? Is 2.5 big enough for the two GBRs?

    Finally, I read that the QT should have no substrate t make it easy to clean in between uses. But what about the cories? Should I add some sand to the QT when the cores are in there?

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I can't ever say a quarantine tank is a bad idea. But, I've never really seen the need for one in the world of freshwater. To me, it isn't worth the cost. Just make sure the LFS has healthy looking fish, especially the ones you are buying. If anything comes up, dosing in tank most likely isn't going to hurt anything. There are copper-free meds, and it doesn't appear you'll be keeping any inverts.

    If you do want to set up a QT, the 2.5g would suffice. I'd say go in groups of 5, then the 2 GBRs. In all honesty, a week in the QT should be plenty of time. Just make sure to keep the tank cycled when fish are not in it by adding bits of food, so there is something to decompose.
    50g African Cichlid Tank ♦ 30g Planted Community Tank ♦ 2g Pico Reef ♦ 45g Hex Goldfish Tank ♦ 10g Planted Betta Tank ♦ 55g Oscar & JD Tank ♦ 40g JD Juveniles Tank

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    A QT tank is always worth the cost. Healthy looking fish are not always healthy, as an example, sometimes ich starts in the fishes gills and they appear healthy until the ich spreads. No fish belongs in a 2.5 gallon, not even short term. The whole point of a QT is to create a comfortable and relaxing place for the fish, they need room. I suggest the smallest QT for a 29g should be a 10g, and it will need to be cycled before adding fish. You could cycle a filter for your QT tank on the 29g at the same time you are cycling the 29, that way when you are ready to get more fish you will have a filter ready for the QT. I would add 5 fish at a time and leave them in the QT for at least 2 weeks but longer is better, I QT new fish a minimum of 4 weeks and if they need medicating for any reason the process starts over.
    Remember, a QT is not a hospital tank and should be decorated so the fish can relax, this includes substrate and plants(fake ones will do) and/or some driftwood and rocks.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    +1 to the above. I had to learn that the hard way many years ago

    I would even suggest QT'ing the first set of fish that you are planning to add to the tank.

    You got some great advice for cycling a QT tank above as well.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Great, thank you!

    I feared that the 2.5 was not good for much. I will go and get a 10g. At least I already have a filter I can use. In terms of cycling, my plan (based on advice I received in a different thread and one of the stickies in the beginner section) was to keep some extra filter media in the canister of my 29g, and put that extra media into the QT's HOB when I need to set up the QT. If I understand things correctly, it will help cycle the QT very very fast, if not immediately. I will cycle my 29g before adding any fish, so by the time I need my QT I will already have filter media from a cycled tank.

    I am guessing that after I am done with the quarantine period and I am putting the QT into storage I would need to wash the filter media thoroughly and run it through some bleach solution to eliminate any possible contamination, rinse thoroughly (perhaps in water with a dechlorinator, to remove any traces of bleach?) and then place it back on my canister to get it ready for next use.

    Thanks also for the feedback on decorations. I had read here that the QT should be "bare bones", but perhaps that thread was referring to hospital tanks instead?

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You can go bare bones on a QT tank if you want, it's easier to maintain. But is it necessary? Not really.

    I just want to throw out there to check for a 10 gallon at a garage sale or Goodwill. There's a massive abundance of 10 gallons when compared with other tank sizes. They are usually cheap. Even new they should cost $10-$15. Used should be possible to get for under $10.

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I too consider a QT tank for new fish to be very different from a QT tank to treat a diseased fish. I will confine my comments to the new fish QT as that is what you initially asked.

    And I absolutely agree with always doing this. For some 20 years I never did, and I never had any issues aside from ich once or twice, which is (or was then) relatively easy to deal with. But times have changed. A professional microbiologist hobbyist friend of mine mentioned to me a few months back that she has never seen so many protozoan infections in "new" fish as there seem to be today. I have found that my wild-caught fish which I get from direct importers never have any issues; it is only the "common" commercial fish that seem to carry pathogens. And of course with stores so often using central filtration (water passes from tank to tank through the entire row) any disease in one tank gets spread to every other tank. QT is very wise. I learned that after twice introducing an internal protozoan that killed about 1/3 to 1/2 my fish in two established tanks.

    I use a 20g which is permanently running with live plants. A 10g is the smallest I would use. I have a fish room so I have the space for this tank, and it is running continually. I like this because when I introduce new fish to it, they are going into an established tank with cover, which as another member said is very important. Newly acquired fish will be severely stressed by all they have endured from importer/farm to store (housed in unsuitable conditions, perhaps with unsuitable tankmates), perhaps inappropriate water parameters and conditions, then chased and netted, bagged...all this is highly stressful, and stress cause 95% of all fish disease. Healthy fish can easily fight off ich and many other issues; it is being stressed which weakens the immune system that causes trouble.

    In this QT you can observe the fish's actions, watch them feeding, ensure they get sufficient food as they are not in competition, and even use medicated food for internal protozoan which is often not detected until the fish begin to die.

    If you haven't space for a permanent QT, then a 10g set up as previously mentioned by HoneyBadger is another method that works.

    Byron.
    Last edited by Byron; 08-03-2013 at 07:20 PM.

  8. #8

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If there are no problems during the QT then you can keep the media and just put it back in the other filter. If there are problems I would just throw it away after the fish are cured, but I suppose bleaching and then dechlorinating will do as well.
    That thread says sparse decor, meaning some, but not has heavily done as your main tank. This is opinion, I like to set mine up as a miniature show tank. The point is the fish need something to hide behind and help them feel secure, the amount is up to you. It also says most QT's don't have substrate, my opinion obviously is they all should, lol. If you don't want to use substrate at least cover the bottom like you would the back of a show tank. I think the corys would appreciate something to dig around in though.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    This is great info, thank you everybody. I don't have a lot of space near where my 29g is going to be, but I am building my own stand, so I will add a shelf under the main tank for a 10g QT. Time to go shopping for a 10g!

  10. #10

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    a 10g for the fish you listed would be perfect, 5 at a time would be best as stated above. having a qt tank will also give you a hospital tank if you need it later down the line. 10g is the base of most meds so its a good idea to keep increments of 10s for qt. example: most antibiotics are "1 packet for every 10 gallons" so you arent trying to split the meds.

    when fish are in qt you might want to feed them food with garlic, it helps treat them for internal parasites. qt is always a good idea. im currently qting a good school of congos.

    other reasons to qt besides illness?
    make sure the fish are eating, some fish are timid eaters and you might need to train them on certain foods before introducing them into the main tank.
    also the ammount of food they are eating should be monitored.
    in qt you can also see if you have bullies, before introducing them into the main tank. i found that one out the hard way.

    there are countless reasons to qt, and its easy. 1 spare tank, 1 spare heater, and a spare filter thats running in the maintank when not in use. plants i can agree with, but i wouldnt worry too much about gravel or sand.
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