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Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25
  1. #11

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    +1 Kermit

    His information is sound, and particularly so in Neon tetra.

    Neon tetra can be notoriously difficult with "mystery die off". They are -extremely-delicate, and do not handle stress well. One of the common reasons of stress, is small tanks in pet stores, in which customers want two or three, meaning the sales clerk is forever swishing a net trying to catch them. This is extremely stressful to them, and if its done once, twice, three times a day, you can imagine these delicate little beauties will start to have ill effects. Its not that the fish are particularly bad stock, or diseased, or that the store itself is a bad store, but the volume dealt with in chain pet stores for these little guys, and the rough handling is a bit too much for them.

    Once you are certain that your water parameters are perfect, my suggestion would be to speak to the manager of the fish department at your local pet store, and find out what day they receive their shipments of stock for Neon Tetras. You can ask them to reserve an amount for you, that are -not- placed in the store's tanks. Many will do this for you, or, you can place a special order with them for that amount that will be held and not put into the extra stress of the main tank setting. In this way they are not subjected to the store's water conditions, nor, the constant "reach in" netting.

    Once I did this, my Neon problems stopped. I had always had "die off" of at least half the Neons I purchased, but doing it this way my last purchase I haven't lost a single one, and all are in extremely good health.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  2. #12

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I would personally re-think not having a quarantine tank.

    A 5gal tank can easily handle many neons - I usually float the bag to equalize temp then slowly add a little tank water, wait a bit, add more, wait a bit - repeat and then when the bag gets too full I dump out some water and keep adding tank water. Then you net the fish out of the bag.

    The benefit of a QT is to give the fish some time with no lights and no food to give them adjustment time. Most of my new fish find places to hide for a few days, only venturing out to eat - by the time 2 weeks has gone by, they are behaving naturally and I put them in my main tank with the lights off to reduce the stress of being transferred.

    I keep a small filter running in my main tank so I always have a cycled filter.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Interesting. Perhaps this was simply a matter of acclimatizing after all. I have four neons left (out of the most recent batch of 8), and the die-off seems to have stopped, which most likely wouldn't have happened if they were giving each other some internal parasite. Of course I'll rethink this if they all die off later. But if these survive, then it would certainly point to stress as a cause of death. Which in turn would suggest a much more gradual acclimatization process.

    I never noticed this with neons before. I had bought them earlier, but they ended up eaten by a crayfish (who is no longer with us). I just assumed he captured live ones, but perhaps what I was seeing was death through stress, and then he'd catch and eat the dead ones.

    Anyways, thanks to all who posted here. You've given me a new perspective on this. If I can keep these alive, I'll definitely get more neons, and of course do more than just drop the bag in for 20 mins. I don' have a tube for the drip process, but I've read others here talk about (after a 20 min bag drop) mixing in a cup of aquarium water at a time into a bucket, with the bag poured out.



    Quote Originally Posted by Tiari View Post
    +1 Kermit

    His information is sound, and particularly so in Neon tetra.

    Neon tetra can be notoriously difficult with "mystery die off". They are -extremely-delicate, and do not handle stress well. One of the common reasons of stress, is small tanks in pet stores, in which customers want two or three, meaning the sales clerk is forever swishing a net trying to catch them. This is extremely stressful to them, and if its done once, twice, three times a day, you can imagine these delicate little beauties will start to have ill effects. Its not that the fish are particularly bad stock, or diseased, or that the store itself is a bad store, but the volume dealt with in chain pet stores for these little guys, and the rough handling is a bit too much for them.

    Once you are certain that your water parameters are perfect, my suggestion would be to speak to the manager of the fish department at your local pet store, and find out what day they receive their shipments of stock for Neon Tetras. You can ask them to reserve an amount for you, that are -not- placed in the store's tanks. Many will do this for you, or, you can place a special order with them for that amount that will be held and not put into the extra stress of the main tank setting. In this way they are not subjected to the store's water conditions, nor, the constant "reach in" netting.

    Once I did this, my Neon problems stopped. I had always had "die off" of at least half the Neons I purchased, but doing it this way my last purchase I haven't lost a single one, and all are in extremely good health.
    Paul

  4. #14

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If you don't have the tubing and wish to do a drip acclimation, airline tubing is very cheap at any fish store - and I think neons might do well with it considering they are more fragile than other tetras. Many people use that method and lose less fish that way.

    But keep in mind that even very seasoned fish keepers report losing some neons in the beginning - I've lucked out with mine.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  5. #15

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    My acclimating process usually takes me 45 minutes in all. 15 minutes t0 get the bag t0 tank temp and the next half h0ur adding tank water t0 the bag. Then I get 0ut a bucket and the net, dump the bag int0 the net 0ver the bucket and introduce the new fish t0 their new tank mates, I usually will leave the lights 0ff f0r a the acclimating pr0cess and an h0ur 0r s0 after, and I feed my existing st0ck bef0re I even g0 t0 buy the new fish- s0 they there isn't extra excitement g0ing 0n in the tank.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Longshot View Post
    I feed my existing st0ck bef0re I even g0 t0 buy the new fish- s0 they there isn't extra excitement g0ing 0n in the tank.

    Could you explain that to me? I've always thought if anything, it would be best to put food in the tank AFTER the new fish are added, so they can do some emotional eating if they need to, or if they haven't been fed in a few days, they'll get some nutrition.
    Paul

  7. #17

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by prr View Post
    Could you explain that to me? I've always thought if anything, it would be best to put food in the tank AFTER the new fish are added, so they can do some emotional eating if they need to, or if they haven't been fed in a few days, they'll get some nutrition.
    I don't mean to jump in before Longshot, but you have asked a question which is closely connected to stress and if you look back to my post #10 you will see one way in which this relates. The fish are obviously under stress when first introduced to the tank. Digestion takes considerable energy and blood for fish as it does for all animals. This is something you should not subject the fish to (eating I mean) when they are under stress. Thjey need all their energy to deal with the stress. Same principle applies to doing the water change; never feed the fish just prior to the water change. Just like they tell humans to not go swimming or do heavy exercise immediately after eating.

    Byron.

  8. #18

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by prr View Post
    Could you explain that to me? I've always thought if anything, it would be best to put food in the tank AFTER the new fish are added, so they can do some emotional eating if they need to, or if they haven't been fed in a few days, they'll get some nutrition.
    Emotional eating? LOL they aren't people.
    I am assuming that fish in fish stores get fed regularly - stressed out fish won't eat which is why it's not necessary to feed them once they have been put into a QT - that's stressful right there.

    I think people feed their main tank before adding newcomers so the existing fish are happy & content and won't bother much with the newbies (you know, food competition). That's just my 2 cents.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  9. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I would just like to add a major thumbs up to the advice about slowly feeding aquarium water into the water with the neons, before inserting them into the aquarium. I have over the last month or two, successfully brought in 20 neons over three separate times. Each time, after putting the bag with the neons in the aquarium for 20 minutes, I've put them into a tall container with a cup or so of aquarium water, and then I added a cup or two every 20-30 minutes. After a couple of hours, I bring them into the aquarium (but not the mixed water).

    It must not be an ineradicable disease, as I have 20 neons that obviously haven't caught it.

    THanks to the folks who recommended a slow acclimatization to the aquarium water. This has worked well for me.
    Paul

  10. #20

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    What ever slow acclimation method you use will always benifit your fish's chances of survival. The LFS here floats the bags, dumps the fish in a bucket, than nets them out and drops them in the tanks, then they wonder why they loose fish!!
    Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence.
    Once you learn to quit, it becomes a habit.
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    See my profile for my tanks and what fish I keep

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