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Results 11 to 20 of 31
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    0 Not allowed!
    The biggest thing I see is that with it being that long and tall I would want a couple large diagonal braces across the back. You want to make sure it doesnt have any side to side movement. You could also cover the whole back with 3/4" plywood to get a similiar effect. But the plywood would be more money and would help keep more heat contained (I dont know if you want that).

    Also this doesnt show the support for under the tank.

    And you probably will need some big pumps on your diy cannisters for all that water volume and height.

  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    I would suggest framing the support for the tanks above the main tank just like you would for a jack stud to frame around exterior door on a load baring wall. It would take a few extra 2X4s, but I think it would give you extra strength and support.

    Just incase I am not explaining this well enough, pic below

    Last edited by Cliff; 07-27-2013 at 01:51 PM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    Indeed, I agree 0n all counts. The drawing is just a preliminary jist. There are g0ing t0 be plyw00d false walls behind the shelving t0 hide the plumbing, sheeting b0ards and cr0ss bracing in many places that I didn't sh0w. I just basically wanted 0pini0ns 0n the general idea, 0riginally I was g0ing t0 put a 55 0ver the t0p but decided 0n 2 x 20 talls t0 all0w easier access t0 the 240. 0f c0urse, this d0esnt sh0w any 0f the sheeting 0r d00rs that will be hiding the canisters and 0n the sides t0 hide the plumbing and the d00rs that cl0se in the fr0nt 0f the tank setup. But thank y0u f0r y0ur 0bservati0ns, very keen 0f y0u.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  4. #14

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff View Post
    I would suggest framing the support for the tanks above the main tank just like you would for a jack stud to frame around exterior door on a load baring wall. It would take a few extra 2X4s, but I think it would give you extra strength and support.

    Just incase I am not explaining this well enough, pic below

    http://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-cont...gh-Opening.jpg
    Couldn't see the pic, but fortunately I kn0w what a jack stud is- Thanks t0 my Dad f0r teaching me something useful at s0me p0int!
    M0st 0f this framing will be d0ne with 2x6. G0nna be a heavy bugger and expensive. Was thinking ab0ut using Hemlock 0r Spruce t0 frame it instead 0f pine. I think Jack studding is a great idea and I might even build the part where the upper tanks sit as if it were a header turned sideways. The pieces between the 2x6 crib that the 240 sits 0n are g0ing t0 be diagonal bracing and all the inner corners 0f the crib will be gusseted. The b00k shelves will be backed with plyw00d t0 help stiffen up the framework and the back 0f the frame will likely have diagonal bracing as well. With 400+ lbs l00ming 0verhead this thing is g0ing t0 have t0 be a behemoth.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  5. #15

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    0 Not allowed!
    F0rg0t t0 mention that all 0f the plumbing will be drilled int0 the backs 0f the tanks and plumbed 0ut with allowances f0r p0wer failure (drain back) and pipes will be drilled in pr0per places with anti-siphon h0les.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  6. #16

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    0 Not allowed!
    only suggestion I'd like to input would be rather than 20g Talls, look into doing two 30g breeders... you have the room for the footprint since the 240 is 6' x 2', the breeders would take up 6' x 1.5'

    Therefore you wouldn't have the space between the tanks up top, and more floor space would be better for a dwarf cichlid type of fish (south american of course)

    For lights I'd look into the SHO CFL bulbs... Cliff has posted a few pics of them before, might be the perfect set up for over that 240.

    What size canisters are you thinking? Two FX6's?

  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    also, regarding the PWC... I would recommend having the lines the go to the sumps have a Tee in them, with 2 valves so that rather than the water going to the canister it can go straight to a drain, would need drilled about 1/2 down the tank... just a thought

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    I forgot to mention that I really like how you have the 2X6s for the base of the stand with supports in the center as well as the edges. Once you add the cross bracing that you mentioned, that stand should more than support your tank.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  9. #19

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    0 Not allowed!
    this is the lighting I was thinking for the 240g

    shoplantedtanktn.jpg

  10. #20

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    0 Not allowed!
    Love your stocking list. I have both congos and colombians with my 2 sevs, and blood parrots. LOVE how they look together. Can't wait to see this tank stocked!
    30 g FW planted:corys, female ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, rummies,
    15 g FW planted:2 male guppies, neons, pygmy corys, clown pleco, 4 types of shrimp, assassin snails
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