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Thread: Cloudy Water

  1. Default Cloudy Water


    0 Not allowed!
    I am in the second week of cycling my 10g freshwater planted tank. I have a goldfish in there for now, and I have been noticing that my tank has been very cloudy for a week. I vacuumed the bottom and did 30% water change 5 days ago, but it is still cloudy. I took sample to the pet store to get a better reading on water, and they said I had very little ammonia, which is a change from the very high ammonia level I was getting a week ago. I also want to add there is a small amount of white bubbly foam at the top around filter discharge. Do I just let it play out and wait or should I be concerned and do something about it?
    Last edited by VinnyV; 07-12-2013 at 07:25 PM.

  2. #2

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    welcomewave.gif to the AC!

    The pet store isn't giving you the info you need to cycle your tank. Get an API freshwater master test kit. Don't get the test strips - you need the exact readings from the API kit. You need to know your exact ammonia reading so you know when to do a water change and how much water to change. If your ammonia reads over .25 ppm, you do a water change - how much you change depends on the reading. If your reading is .50 ppm, you change 50% of the water to bring it to .25 ppm, if it's 1.0 ppm, change 75%. You also need to know your nitrite and nitrate readings to know how your cycle is progressing and when your tank is cycled. It's really important to know your water parameters.
    Last edited by gronlaura; 07-12-2013 at 07:59 PM.
    My 75 gal Journal & My Dual 29 gal Journal
    My 75 gal - Gold Pristella Tetras, Scissortail Rasboras, Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish, Longfin and Regular Fin Zebra Danios, Bristlenose Pleco
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    "Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass....it's about learning to dance in the rain"

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    your definitely right! I found most of the employees were giving me different opinions and sets of info. Some didn't even know the difference between nitrites and nitrates, that's why I am coming here to this forum. Anyways, would taking away the ammonia, even if too high, slow things down? I really hate to say, and don't mean to offend, I don't care about the 21 cent goldfish, but I don't.

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I don't mean to offend when I say this -- but if you don't care about the goldfish, maybe you shouldn't get into this hobby???

    Anyway, the advice above is spot on. If I were you I'd nix the goldfish. You obvioulsy don't want it, and it doesn't belong in a 10g anyway. A fishless cycle will be faster in the long run as well.

    Bringing the ammonia down will not slow things down, but it will save your fish from an cruel and agonizing death.

    You were def right to research on your own. :) Most pet store ppl have no clue what they're doing. Stick with us and we'll get ya through!
    130g: 6 Angelfish, 2 Roseline Sharks, 5 Kuhli Loaches, 1 Otocinslus, 1 Corydora
    I've noticed that people HATE it when you point out how stupid they are, so now I try to do it politely.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Why do you change the water to get rid of the ammonia?
    Why not cultivate Nitrosomonas". Nitrosomonas is an oxygen loving bacteria that converts ammonia into nitrites.
    It is then easy enough to cultivate a bacteria known as "Nitrabacter". They love nitrites. They turn nitrites into nitrates.
    Plants love nitrates. They eat nitrates and produce oxygen for your fish... ???


    Quote Originally Posted by gronlaura View Post
    welcomewave.gif to the AC!

    The pet store isn't giving you the info you need to cycle your tank. Get an API freshwater master test kit. Don't get the test strips - you need the exact readings from the API kit. You need to know your exact ammonia reading so you know when to do a water change and how much water to change. If your ammonia reads over .25 ppm, you do a water change - how much you change depends on the reading. If your reading is .50 ppm, you change 50% of the water to bring it to .25 ppm, if it's 1.0 ppm, change 75%. You also need to know your nitrite and nitrate readings to know how your cycle is progressing and when your tank is cycled. It's really important to know your water parameters.

  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    He is cultivating the ammonia eating and nitrite eating bacteria through his fish-in cycle. If he didn't have the goldfish in there he would be doing a fishless cycle using pure ammonia to cultivate the beneficial bacteria.
    My 75 gal Journal & My Dual 29 gal Journal
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    My Dual 29 gals - Left Tank - Diamond Tetras. Right Tank (still cycling) - Amano Shrimp, Black Neon Tetras

    "Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass....it's about learning to dance in the rain"

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by MandyK View Post
    I don't mean to offend when I say this -- but if you don't care about the goldfish, maybe you shouldn't get into this hobby???

    Anyway, the advice above is spot on. If I were you I'd nix the goldfish. You obvioulsy don't want it, and it doesn't belong in a 10g anyway. A fishless cycle will be faster in the long run as well.

    Bringing the ammonia down will not slow things down, but it will save your fish from an cruel and agonizing death.

    You were def right to research on your own. :) Most pet store ppl have no clue what they're doing. Stick with us and we'll get ya through!
    Have to agree with Mandy's advice - if I were you, I would return the goldfish - I assume the pet store recommended you cycle your tank with it? The cloudiness is common when cycling a new tank but you really don't want to harm the goldfish - it could die and then you'd be back to square one anyway.

    It will be faster for you to cycle with pure ammonia - the whole point of cycling is to maintain a certain amount of ammonia in the tank to grow bacteria in your filter which eventually "eats" ammonia to remove it from the water.

    If you have fish in the tank, you need to keep the ammonia level lower to prevent it from harming the fish - if you cycle without fish, you can "spike" the ammonia reading to jumpstart bacterial growth and maintain a steady supply of it to keep growing bacteria until the filter goes through the "nitrogen cycle" - good to read about it!

    The other benefit of doing this is to give you time to decide what to put into the tank - 10gal is not very large so your stocking options are not great but not impossible. The aim is to get fish that stay small and won't eventually outgrow the tank.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    So if ammonia is an important part of the cycle why is he changing the water?




    Quote Originally Posted by gronlaura View Post
    He is cultivating the ammonia eating and nitrite eating bacteria through his fish-in cycle. If he didn't have the goldfish in there he would be doing a fishless cycle using pure ammonia to cultivate the beneficial bacteria.

  9. #9

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    t0 keep the amm0nia at a level that is safe f0r the fish... D0n't w0rry the fish will make m0re.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    He is taking the ammonia out so that he won't kill the fish... That's why a lot of people choose to do a cycle without a fish. They won't have to worry about changing the water so that the fish won't die. Much less work and it ends up being faster.

    I don't know about you, but I can't stand the smell of ammonia--- much less trying to LIVE in it. Lol!!
    130g: 6 Angelfish, 2 Roseline Sharks, 5 Kuhli Loaches, 1 Otocinslus, 1 Corydora
    I've noticed that people HATE it when you point out how stupid they are, so now I try to do it politely.

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