First of all...thank you with the previous help on the heater placement. With the help of a flashlight (I'm over 50), I could finally see the words "Minimum water level". Now on to my next questions. Here's an update. I have a 20 gallon tank (that I previously used as temporary housing to hold my pond fish when I was doing some major pond renovations). I have the tank set up and bought a testing kit that I think tests everything. I went to my local fish woman who told me to start with 3 danio fish and to test the water while cycling and that I might be able to add more fish in 5 weeks. So I've been testing the water everyday for pH, ammonia, nitrites & nitrates but I'm starting to think that perhaps testing all of these every day might be overkill. So far the ammonia finally went up to 0.5 but still no nitrites or nitrates. So my questions are:
1. Do I test for everything every day or every couple of days....or a week?
2. I read that the good bacteria grows better with oxygen and low light so should I turn my filter to full speed and keep the led lights off as much as possible?
3. Is there a particular speed I should have my filter on at all times?
4. I read somewhere not to add anything to your tank during cycling but does that include water for water changes? Do you still do 15% water change every 1-2 weeks during cycling or more or less changes?
I know this sounds crazy..... I temporary held 3 4-6" comets in this tank for several weeks while working on the pond without a bit of problems but these tiny little danios worry me.....I don't know if they are as tough as comets who from what I can tell only die if you don't dechlorinate the water (I have never not done this) or have a snapping turtle sneak into the pond (unfortunately this has happened).
Thanks in advance
First thing you need to do is change half the water out of the tank and bring the ammonia down to .25ppm. Danios are tough fish, but no fish can live through ammonia for an extended amount of time. Then read this.. http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492 it will answer most of your other questions. The only thing I disagree with in that sticky is the water temperature, with fish in the tank I would keep the temperature in the mid to upper 70's.
You should test ammonia everyday and when it starts to drop test for nitrites.
When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.
1. Test for ammonia and nitrites everyday. You can have an ammonia reading at the same time as a nitrite reading. I wouldn't worry too much about nitrates too much, and would test every 2 weeks until the aquarium is fully cycled.
2. Keep the filter at full speed. I haven't heard anything about lighting affecting cycling.
4. You'll need to do 50% water changes when either ammonia or nitrites hit 0.5ppm. Once fully cycled, change the water at 20ppm.
Keep the temperature of your tank from 78F-86F.
Danios are not as tough as comets, goldfish, or koi.
Last edited by Rocksor; 07-10-2013 at 08:04 PM.
+1 to HB1's advice
Most LFS will tell people to buy a few cheap fish to cycle with, but this is actually the harder of the two options when it comes to cycling a tank, and really isn't great for the fish.
Typing when cycling with fish you will do water changes much more often because you have to keep the water quality safe for fish. If you do a fishless cycle using pure ammonia then you don't change the water till the tank is 100% cycled
Fish: 75g: 9 Parva Rainbow, 4 GBR, 2 Oto, 4 Platies, 10 Sterbai, 4 Calico BN Pleco
10g: RCS, 10 B. Brigittae; 10g: 4 Fp. Spoorenbergi, 7 C. Habroseus, Orchid Endlers; 10g: 4 Fp. Spoorenbergi, Species #2 Endlers,
Plants: 75: A. Sword, C. Red Wendtii, J Fern, Alternanthera Reineckii, Temple Hygro, Moneywort, Subwassertang, R. Rotundofolia, R. Indica
10: Italian Vals, Dwarf Sag, Java Fern, Phoenix Moss
10s: C. Parva, C. Wendtii, Cardinal, Microswords, Dwarf Hairgrass, Hornwort