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Thread: Finrot and white spot.
07-04-2013, 02:39 PM #1
Finrot and white spot.
I got a 200 litre tank with quite some fish in it and recently i discovered that my fish were starting to have white spot so i decided to treat it and it was succesful, however two weeks later it came back and some of my fish also started to show signs of finrot.
About five days ago my fish started showing signs of white spot again and i immediately started treating it and to make it worse they also started having finrot so i found another medicine that was compitable with the medicine i used for treating the white spot.
It's been five days since i first started treating the white spot but it doesn't seem to go away and i was wondering if this is normal since i don't know how long it approx. takes for white spot to heal.
The fish that are suffering most are my neon tetras and pencilfish but since yesterday my ram cichlids also started showing signs of white spot but my corys, harlequin barbs and other fish don't show any signs of illness.
Am i over exaggerating or do i need to take further action, if so what should i do?
One of my ram cichlids also started to have a blood coloured "stain" just behind the gills and i can't seem to find anything about what it could be.
And another thing that might be worth saying is that none of my fish are showing any signs of stress and the temperature is usually around 25-26 degrees celcius and my filter is turned off because of the activated carbon it has inside it, should i remove the carbon and turn the filter back on?
Thanks in advance.
07-04-2013, 04:22 PM #2
YES, remove the carbon and turn your filter on IMMEDIATELY.
After that, tell us what and how many fish you have, what your water parameters are (pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), what medicines you're using and at what dosages.
07-04-2013, 04:42 PM #3
+ to the above questions and turning on your filter. (see below about the carbon)
Additional questions: what is your water change schedule? as in how often do you change the water and how much do you change? How long has this tank been running with fish?
White spot (ich) is not gone when you see the last spot. it can lie dormant for several days after therefore you must continue treatment.
In the meantime, depending on your stock, I would suggest treatment as follows: do a HUGE water change - the biggest you can make to get all the medication out of there. Add the carbon back in to further reduce any left over medication. gradually turn the heat up to 86F degrees and add an air stone to increase oxygenation - leave the water level lower than usual. Once you see the last white spot (this may take several days for the heat to kill the ich protozoan) , leave the temp at 86F for 7 - 10 more days.
Since you are also seeing signs of fin rot (which indicates poor water quality) I would continue to make daily 50% water changes (clean water is the best cure for fin rot) taking care to always replace the water with water at 86F so you maintain a constant temp. I'd also thoroughly vac the substrate ever 3 days during treatment. after the extra 7 -10 days of high heat, gradually reduce your temp.
don't use any medication during this period. Also use a good dechlorinator at every water change and use enough to treat the entire 200L tank.
please do answer the questions we asked so we will have a better idea of what's going on.
Last edited by fishmommie; 07-04-2013 at 04:44 PM.
07-04-2013, 10:32 PM #4
This is what i've been using together with a similar product for "ich", most people on different forums are saying that it's aged and that it doesn't work anymore?
I've tested my water, as always with test strips and they tell me there's nothing wrong with my water, i got approx. 20 Paracheirodon innesi , 10 Nannostomus beckfordi , 6 Trigonostigma heteromorpha, 4 Corydoras albino, 2 Megalechis picta, 5 Carnegiella strigata, 2 Mikrogeophagus ramirezi.
So that's approx 50 fish in my tank.
I've already removed the carbon and started cycling my filter, it's too late to do a massive water change so i'll do that first thing tomorrow, any other advice?
07-04-2013, 11:11 PM #5
test strips are notoriously unreliable. you should be using an API master liquid test kit. Test your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. don't worry about ph or hardness at this point.
I can't tell what that produce is in the picture. please advise what it says it does. does it dechlorinate water?
You did not say how often you change your water or how much you change. Please advise.
Also, do you regularly vacuum your substrate?
Also, we need to know how long your tank has been set up so we can tell if it's cycled or not.
Did you add all fish at once? If not, how many at a time and how often since you started.
Please give a concise history of this tank including what type and size of filtration and answer all of the other questions that have been posed. And you said you 'started cycling your filter'. What does that mean?
Without all the info it's like shooting in the dark. once we know, we can better advise. in the meantime, I'd go with my earlier post and do those daily water changes, add dechlorinator, up the heat and add the air stone.
07-05-2013, 11:59 AM #6
I can't give you any details about the medicine at the moment but i will later, i change my water around once every two weeks.
I haven't vacuumed my substrate yet but i will in the near future, my tank has been set up for about 7 weeks i think, i cycled it about 3 weeks before adding any fish to it, i did not add all fish at once i would say i had 3-4 seperate purchases.
The filter i'm using is nothing special really it's a medium sized filter inside my tank which should do 200-400 litre an hour and it contains a green spunge with activated carbon inside it and by saying i cycled it i meant i turned it back on.
This morning i noticed alot of the ich and finrot was starting to go away and i did a huge water change early today and they seem happy about it, they seem more active and healthier.
I will have to provide you with the water values later because i was planning to get a test kit but i had some bills to take care of so i will have to buy that later together with the vacuum.
07-05-2013, 01:33 PM #7
thanks for providing this info. I'll address below.l
One more note - do not touch your filter or filter media during this cycling process even if you feel it's dirty. that 'dirt' is beneficial bacteria growing on your sponge and in your filter. you do not want to disturb it. Even after you achieve a cycle, do NOT change out your sponge, If it's a bit gunky, simply rinse it lightly in water you've removed from the tank. NEVER rinse it in tap water as the chlorine will kill all the BB you've worked so hard to grow.
Again - continue to ask question but DO read the stickie on cycling. click on the link in the last line of my signature line.
Once you get the tank cycled and the ich and fin rot straightened away, you'll want to search google for the profiles on your stock to see if you might want to consider rehoming some of them due to full growth size and compatibility.
Last edited by fishmommie; 07-05-2013 at 01:42 PM.