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Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. Default Dojo Loach tank with an ich problem.


    0 Not allowed!
    I have a 29 gallon that's stocked with 3 Dojo Loaches, and I just discovered I had an ich problem after almost a week of having the fish. Normally, I'd be able to treat it quite easily with salt and high temperatures (upper 80s, 86-89 F), but I'm hesitant to use either of those methods because Dojo Loaches are both scaleless and cold water fish. The fact that there is still a cycling issue (did a fishless cycle prior to purchase, but apparently something happened) isn't helping the matter either. The ich in the current fish (one died, got a replacement; the death was probably due both the ich and some other issues, as he didn't seem well when I got him and gradually deteriorated over 3 days until he died) hasn't yet developed to the point where their lives seem imminently in danger, so I want to solve it as quickly as possible. The fish do seem somewhat stressed and effected by both the ich and nitrogenous waste levels which seem to be having a synergistic effect, but they are eating fine. The symptoms/general signs of stress I'm seeing are hovering by the filter return and flashing and heavy mucus/slime coating production and the infamous white spots (though some are more effected by others).

    Anyway, how should I approach this problem? I am doing 30-50% water changes daily to attempt to keep ammonia levels from getting too high, and I also added a few stems of anacharis to the tank for some additional help (hopefully). The current plan is to increase the temperature to 86-89 F for several days and add some airline tubing down near the substrate in order to increase aeration, but as mentioned earlier I'm not sure if Dojo Loaches can tolerate temperatures this high, even with increased aeration. Should I add any sea salt whatsoever or just forget that part? Anything else I can do to help them out? Should I soak their food in garlic? Thank you in advance.
    Last edited by Jeddi; 07-03-2013 at 07:00 PM.
    moar tanks plz

    29g planted tank: 8 Cherry Barbs (2 male, 6 female), 2 Kribensis (male and female), 1 Dwarf Gourami (male), 1 Albino Bristlenose Pleco

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I have been treating ich in my tank and I have a dojo loach. I used an herbal remedy from petco (petco brand) I kept the tank at 76 and did a 50% water change daily for 8 days. You can use the medication for up to ten. I also used salt. I know the rumor is that dojo loach dont like the salt. Mine seems to have adjusted fine. Because I was primarily relying on the herbal medication I added the salt very slowly (over about 4 days) to bring it up to 1 tbs per 5 gal as directed on the box. After 8 days I was getting close to the limit and also worried about my live plants as well as my cycle, so I stopped medication and kept up my salt and heavy water changes. I have been on salt and water change only for three days. The ich was only on one fish, but it did not spread and it is almost completely gone. The treatment of the tank should continue for four days after all signs are gone. I am going to cut back to 10% water change daily after the four days is up and continue that (or gradually cut back) until my cycle is good.

    Hope that helps. It's working for me.

    Happy Fish Happy Life

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm glad the treatment is working for you Ms Namazu. And not to dispute what you've done, if these were my loaches, since they are scaleless I would not suggest salt or medication. Instead I'd increase the temp to 86F - no higher. An airstone is a good idea. after you've seen the last spot, leave the temp at 86 for 7 more days then gradually lower. continue doing daily W/C if you must to keep the ammonia down and vac the heck out of the substrate a couple times during the treatment to pick up the ich egs that fall - just make sure you replace the water with 86 degree water. that should take care of it.
    Again, I would not use meds - even at half dose, it can kill loaches if they are already weakened.

    As I said - different things work for different people and this is just my opinion. I've used the heat method successfully in the past.
    good luck.
    Last edited by fishmommie; 07-03-2013 at 10:50 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I've used both heat and medications (half dose or less) successfully in the past, but I'd start with heat as fishmommie suggested. The heat shouldn't be a big deal temporarily, certainly not as big a stressor as the meds. Just make sure they get enough oxygen.

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