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Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. Default Help with Betta?

    0 Not allowed!
    I've had my betta for over a year now, and recently moved her from a tiny half gallon tank to a 30 gallon (I also added a few other fish, a rabbit snail and african dwarf frog). I've been having some problems with my tank recently. I had a crossbar gourami, 2 rummynose tetras and the snail and frog in there intially. I went to my LFS last week and bought 2 more crossbars and 2 boesemani rainbows to add. The 2 crossbars died less than 48 hours after I got them, but they didn't look great from the moment I put them in. One of the boesemanis and the other crossbar died yesterday, which was really surprising to me because the crossbar had been just fine for quite a while. The boesemani had what seemed to be a scrape or something on the top of its mouth the day before it died so I'm not sure if that maybe contributed to its death. The other boesemani and the rest of my fish are doing just fine. My boyfriend has a LOT of freshwater fish tank experience, and we've done a significant water change when we found my nitrites to be pretty high. We've tested the water in the past couple days and the nitrites are still up a bit, but we thought it might just take them a day or two to settle. We added Tetra Easy Balance plus and ATM "Outbreak" to help the bacteria along and hopefully get the nitrites sorted out. My betta has had cloudy eyes for about a week now but wasn't exhibiting any other signs of sickness, and the eye cloud did not go away when treated with melafix for 5 days (we've changed the water since then). Today, she has some whiteness under her scales and is laying on her side on the floor of the tank. I know bettas do this sometimes, but my betta has always been very active. She swam to the top when I put food in, but quickly returned to the bottom, which is also unusual because she generally eats like a pig. Her fin is also pretty torn up, and her eyes are a bit cloudy, but she seems to only have the scale issue and torn up fin on one side. I'm not sure if it's just a scrape or if it's something worse. Any advice?

    Side note: The fact that I was even able to get such a clear picture of her says a lot to me. She tends to be really active and usually I can only get blurry pictures of her.


  2. #2


    0 Not allowed!
    test y0ur water f0r amm0nia, nitrates and nitrItes. High nitrites may indicate that y0ur tank is n0t cycled. Many fish are very sensitive t0 higher levels 0f the ab0ve menti0n parameters- which may be a c0ntributing fact0r in y0ur issues. A quicker way t0 help al0ng y0ur bacteria w0uld be t0 get a sp0nge seeded with bacteria fr0m a friends filter 0r maybe fr0m a the LFS if they are very gener0us and helpful, and add it t0 y0ur filter.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  3. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    My ammonias and nitrates are at 0, but my nitrites are up a bit. I don't personally have a testing kit, so I can't test it until tomorrow when I can use my boyfriend's testing kit. The tank was cycled (amm/nitrI/nitrA were all at 0). I'll follow up tomorrow with exact readings from a test.

    It also appears as though a couple of my other fish have a few ick spots- will start treating that tomorrow.

  4. #4


    0 Not allowed!
    remember that when y0u add m0re bi0 l0ad it may trip a mini cycle t0 start. amm0nia will turn t0 nitrite rather quickly and dr0p 0ff, but nitrite may take s0me time t0 turn t0 nitrate. If y0u changed the water it w0uld reduce the am0unt 0f readable nitrate. If y0u have ich starting, turn up y0ur temp a few degrees each day until reach ar0und 83-85 degrees and add s0me aquarium salt, it usually d0es the trick t0 cure ich.
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  5. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    My temp is around 82 already but I bumped my heater up a bit nonetheless. I also added some salt so hopefully that'll help knock out any ick :)

  6. #6


    0 Not allowed!
    after the signs 0f ich have disappeared keep treating this way f0r an0ther week. Can't be 0f much m0re service with else might be wr0ng , but I wish y0u the best!
    When in d0ubt read it until it makes sense, then read it again!

  7. #7


    0 Not allowed!
    Do you have a heavily planted tank? A properly cycled tank will have some nitrates even with plants. An uncycled tank will cause stress to your fish which makes it easier for ich to set in. If you are going to add meds with temps that high I would advise an airstone to help with oxygen. Also, if funds allow, invest in a api master test kit. You will happy that you did. If others here think like I do do about your tank being uncycled you should start with a large wc, like 75 percent or more. Keep those nitrites as low as possible.

  8. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Everyone has given you great advice.
    I can't imagine keeping an aquarium without an API water test kit. Use it regularly. While your nitrites are high, you should be doing daily water changes of at least 50% or as was suggested 75%. You need to get those nitrites down to .25ppm or below until your mini cycle is over. then your readings should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 10 - 20 nitrates. someone gave a good suggestion of getting some seeded filter media to help this cycle along.
    I'm thinking all of the fish deaths are the result of nitrite poisoning and your betta is suffering from it too. So - water changes are key until you get things under control

    as for the ich: Personally, I'd up the temp to 86, get that airstone running and perhaps, forget the salt, reason being, you are also dealing with high nitrites and as i said above, large daily water changes may be necessary until you get the nitrites down and it will be hard to regulate the salt amounts. The 86 temp alone will kill the ich BUT as longshot said, after you've seen the last spot, keep the temp at 86 for another 7 days minimum then gradually lower back to 78. Be careful when doing water changes that you replace the old water with 86 degree water. Also, if you use heat treatment do not use any other medication as it will stress the remaining fish even more. Additionally any medication with copper will kill your snail.

    As for you stock. I'm surprised the LFS sold you bosmanies. they belong in no less than a 4 foot tank as they need a lot of swimming room.

    I hope you can pull this tank out of its current bad situation. Broken record here, but can't stress enough the importance of the API test kit, daily testing, and daily large W/C until you get the nitrites under control.
    good luck!
    30 g FW planted:corys, female ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, rummies,
    15 g FW planted:2 male guppies, neons, pygmy corys, clown pleco, 4 types of shrimp, assassin snails
    90 Gal Journal:
    fishless cycling:
    fish in cycling:

  9. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    I have an airstone in the tank already. My temperature is up. I don't have a master test kit but my boyfriend does and he tests my water regularly. The tank has been up for a few months now and like I said before, my tank WAS cycled. We tested the water and everything was at zero a few months ago when we set up the tank. I had no problems with the tank at all until last week.

    My betta is dead this morning. From what I can find about nitrite poisoning, I don't think that's what killed her. The white on her scales in the picture I initially posted was all over one side of her body this morning when I found her. But it is a good place to start in saving the rest of my fish. My LFS tends to be really good about making sure fish will go into proper homes, and told me there shouldn't be any problem with my boesemanis in my tank. The one I have is still very young, but regardless it's an easy fix as my boyfriend has a 125 gallon tank that's 6 feet(ish) long, so they can easily be rehomed to his tank. We'll make sure to quarantine it first.

    I will start doing large water changes to get the nitrites down. The ick spots are all gone this morning so I think upping the temp and adding a little bit of salt may have helped.

    Thanks for the advice, everyone.

  10. #10


    0 Not allowed!
    Please be sure to keep the temp at 86-88 for a full 2 weeks to make sure all the ich is dead. This worked great for me.
    75 gal - Smudge Spot Cories, Silvertip & Pristella Tetras, Scissortail & Red Tail Rasboras, Pearl Gourami, Black Kuhli Loaches, Whiptail Cats, Wild Caught BNP
    Dual 29 gals - Diamond Tetras. Harlequin Rasboras, Bloodfin Tetras
    10 Gal - Mr. Betta's Fishy Paradise

    "Life isn't about waiting for the storm to's about learning to dance in the rain"

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