Results 11 to 19 of 19
06-18-2013, 10:47 PM #11
There are a few different schools of thought about maintaining the perfect or a target pH vs maintaining a stable ph. But I'm guessing you have already figured that out by the above posts. Both approaches can be made to work well for almost any set-up. You just have to go with the approach that you are more comfortable with. Take your time, do some reading, and decide for yourself.
RO water with additives is certainly a good option. Be careful using the hubby's TDS meter tho. Many of those are used in the marine aquarium hobby to confirm 0 tds in water so they may not be capable of accurately measuring the higher levels of TDS that you might be targeting. Just something to double check if you go that route.
I would also suggest staying away from using the RO waste water. After the system gets back-flushed (common maintenance practice for marine hobbyists) you can get chlorine in the wast water depending on how the RO unit is set-up. It's not very common, but also not worth the risk IMO.
Last edited by Cliff; 06-19-2013 at 10:05 AM.If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
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06-18-2013, 11:58 PM #12
no one here means disrespect to any one, i dont doubt for a second that TD has kept beautiful fish by matching wild standards, but all the fish listed in the op arent too particular to water chemistry, the rams being the most picky. from what i understand tho even those are quite adaptable as long as you give them good, stable water conditions.
if you ask me, more advanced aquarists can go after wild conditions if they would like, but for the beginner i would stay with stable. once you get the basics down try another method.KING OF THE GOLD BARBS RAWR!!!!
I wonder if i plant one of my tiger barbs would the demon seed grow to a full tree?
gotta love them bunnies!
I.R.S.: We've got what it takes to take what you've got!
06-19-2013, 12:31 AM #13
+ 1 to genocidex, leave it to the advanced aquarist.Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence.
Once you learn to quit, it becomes a habit. -Vince Lombardi
Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, because your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are. ― John Wooden
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06-19-2013, 05:37 AM #14
Is someone with a hubby that's a keen marine aquarist really a beginner? It's debatable.
In general I agree though, ph is best left alone and fish are best selected to match roughly the hardness of the tapwater. Adjusting either can be a bit tricky for beginners.
06-19-2013, 07:20 AM #15
Indian almond leaves? I use them in by betta tank, but only because the breeder I got him from used them too...
TBH it's much better to aim for a stable ph rather than ideal ph. I've kept chocolate gouramis, rams, even discus in my 7.6-7.8 Los Angeles tap water with no problems.
06-19-2013, 07:58 AM #16
Don't confuse ph with water hardness.
06-19-2013, 08:06 AM #17
OMG sorry, it's late! 1AM here. I read this whole thread wrong... Who needs sleep? LOL... buh bye!
06-23-2013, 05:02 AM #18
imo just leave it.
almost all of the fish in our lfs are home breed.
which means a long time ago it had an ancestor who was caught in the wild.
his ancestor needed a low ph.
but that fish would PREFER acidic water but really does not need it.
the fish will be a bit more colorful if you have a ph of about 6.5 , but is still happy in hard water.
stability is more important. no offence to TDi hear some people say, "i kept a goldfish in a bowl and it lived for a year."
they don't know how lucky they were and all goldfish live at least 15 years in proper conditions.
that is equal to saying my human lived in his closet for 5 years!
06-23-2013, 06:06 AM #19
If I look what the average shop has in stock not that much is home bred.
- some of the more exotic danios
- half the cories if not more
- half the puntius
- green neons
- all hatchet fish
- most pencil fish
- 80% of all L numbers.
Further, I was focussing on soft water, most reactions confuse water hardness with Ph.