Results 11 to 17 of 17
06-12-2013, 12:35 AM #11
water change should have removed the cloudiness, then reduce feeding to every other day for only once a day, and finally reduce temp to 75-77f. If you really want to see how much waste is produced, remove the gravel or sand, and go barebottom tank.
06-12-2013, 01:02 AM #12
Okay, I'm no expert, but I know a bit, and... You have a train crash in progress. Oscars make really big messes, and I don't think firebellies get along with angels...I hate hearing people say "it's only a $3/$5/$1 fish/shrimp, so it's ok if it dies, I can just get another." It's still an animal! All animals should be treated like they're worth $10,000.
29 sw: Damsel, shrimpgoby, pistol shrimp, waspfish
65 fw: Rummies, glowlight tetras, pencilfish, darters, ottos, f betta, goby, dwarf gourami, ninjas
29 fw: Chili rasboras, pygmy cories, P. Gertrudae
06-12-2013, 01:12 AM #13Banned CoryCat
- Join Date
- May 2013
- S. Heaven
But all of your problems are from having way too many big fish, in a small tank.
06-12-2013, 02:28 AM #14
Regardless of what you choose to do with your fish you are going to need to do something about that pH. The excerpt below is taken from this website; http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html
Nitrobacter will grow more slowly at the high pH levels typical of marine aquaria and preferred by African Rift Lake Cichlids. Initial high nitrite concentrations may exist. At pH levels below 7.0, Nitrosomonas will grow more slowly and increases in ammonia may become evident. Nitrosomonas growth is inhibited at a pH of 6.5. All nitrification is inhibited if the pH drops to 6.0 or less. Care must be taken to monitor ammonia if the pH begins to drop close to 6.5. At this pH almost all of the ammonia present in the water will be in the mildly toxic, ionized NH3+ state.
This is probably the cause of the cloudy water, your tank is trying to cycle, but can't because of the low pH. Do you happen to know the GH and KH of your water?
When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.
06-12-2013, 05:25 AM #15
06-12-2013, 01:40 PM #16
+ to KevinVA on how you "rehome" fish - please do not rely upon your LFS to give you advice - most employees are there to bag fish & sell you supplies - some know what they are talking about but not often.46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
5 gal QT
Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in
06-12-2013, 02:41 PM #17
Oscars get a foot long and you have 2. Pleco's get a foot long PLUS. The only thing that you have that is ok for that tank is that 1-angelfish with perhaps some smaller community fish.
Forget asking the pet store anything. Common sense should tell you a fish that reaches one foot will not work in a 30 gallon tank. Stocking properly is your responsibility, not the fish stores. Their job is to sell fish, not instruct you on purchases.
Check your tap water for pH. That's the water you need to go by. If your tank is crashing due to overstocking and too much waste, then pH can be brought up naturally with some coral stones. But if your tap water is higher than the pH in your fish tank, then it's due to all those fish, probably too little filtration and not enough water changes. The tap water has got to be your starting point.
Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 06-12-2013 at 02:45 PM.