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  1. Default Hmmm... I Thought the Tank was Cycled... Then...


    0 Not allowed!
    This is a new tank...about one month old. After a number of excellent readings this week with zero Ammonia, zero Nitrites, and Nitrates at 5 ppm, an unexpected set-back occurred. This morning's water test showed good readings of Nitrites at 0 ppm, and Nitrates at 5+ pmm, but revealed Ammonia at 0.50 ppm. I did a 20% water change and dosed with a little Prime to lock up the Ammonia and let the bacteria catch up.

    No new fish have been added, so this tells me either I am over feeding the three already in, or that the tank is not yet stable. I can expect more Nitrites I guess.

    I did notice that the fish are missing some of the food and it may be adding to the Ammonia build-up as it decays. I will not feed today and I will check the Ammonia again tomorrow. If it is still up I will do another water change but I don't want to do so many changes that it causes the nearly complete cycle to go back to square one.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If your ammonia was at 0.5ppm I would suggest a 50% water change to get is back to 0.25ppm. A light gravel vac should also help.

    Based on your above post, I am assuming you are cycling with fish. What size is your tank, what do you have for fish, and what do you have for filtration ?
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Add Prime twice a day until the ammonia is at 0ppm again. I would change 50% of the water daily until the ammonia is gone too. You may not see nitrites again. But test for them to make sure. There is obviously bacteria in your tank to take care of the ammonia and nitrite. So there may be enough to not have a nitrite spike again.

    Did you cycle with fish?

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I did the 50% change and added Prime at 2 drops per gallon. Is more required under these conditions? I have read that you can do 5x dose in an emergency (which this is not).

    I have also read that Prime will render Ammonia and Nitrites safe for 24 hours, and will affect Nitrate water tests, but will give a good reading of the Ammonia level. If that is correct I will test again tomorrow morning and see if another water change is required.

    One more thing, can Prime be used to instantaneously render chlorine safe? I have always let it sit with the water I will use to do the PWC while the water comes to room temperature (about 24 hours).

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Prime will render both chlorine and chlorimines (spelling?) safe for your fish and bacteria. Chlorimines are being used more and more throughout Norther America to treat water supplies as it will not gas off like chlorine will. Chlorimines will have the same effect on your set-up as chlorine will.

    I would suggest always using Prime to treat any water added to your aquarium
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    SINCE almost all of your bacteria lives which cycles your tank. the other bacteria lives on the gravel. you can do as many water changes as you want and you will NEVER lose your cycles if the ph and tempeture are close.

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by kim92 View Post
    Add Prime twice a day until the ammonia is at 0ppm again. I would change 50% of the water daily until the ammonia is gone too. You may not see nitrites again. But test for them to make sure. There is obviously bacteria in your tank to take care of the ammonia and nitrite. So there may be enough to not have a nitrite spike again.

    Did you cycle with fish?
    I saw a write-up from a very knowledgeable source commenting on a similar situation to mine (a new 10g tank with Ammonia levels of 0.50 ppm). He provided different advise from that given here. He said test for Ammonia every day. If the Ammonia is at 0 leave the water alone, if it gets to 1+ do a 25%-30% PWC. If it goes to 3+ do a 50% PWC, and stay away from Ammonia neutralizers since they will delay the cycle. Apparently, he is OK with a level of 0.25 or 0.50 ppm during the cycle as long as it is self-correcting through Nitrosomonas. Reaching 1.0 ppm during the cycle would mean that the bio-load is overwhelming the bacteria and a change would be in order. Otherwise, ride it out.

    Since many here have suggested daily 50% water changes at 0.50 ppm or higher, I was wondering what your thoughts are?

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    A little further from sanity
    Posts
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I see the advice as the same but with different tolerances allowed for the fish. The fact that ammonia is toxic to fish is well documented and it should be kept at a minimum for the health of the fish but still present to cycle the tank. .50ppm is often thought to be tolerable, but in my opinion, ammonia and nitrite should be kept lower, I don't want to live in barely tolerable conditions and I doubt any other living creature would feel differently. What your "very knowledgeable source" says will cycle the tank faster, but at the cost of the long term health of your fish.
    I agree that products that totally remove ammonia should not be used since that would stop the cycle completely, but products like Prime that detoxify ammonia for a short time, but still leave it as a usable food source for the bacteria, are nothing but helpful to the health of your fish and do not stall the cycle in any way.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    +1 to the above

    I would suggest keeping the ammonia and/or nitrites no higher than 0.25ppm. I would also suggest basing the size of your water change on your daily test results until you get past this set-back. For example, if your ammonia is 1.0ppm, then complete a 75% water change to bring it back down to 0.25ppm. If it is at 0.5ppm, then complete a 50% water change to bring it back down to 0.25ppm
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Products like Prime make ammonia non toxic for the fish. They do not delay the cycle. Any amount of ammonia is not good for your fish. There is a constant amount of it in your tank. You just do not get readings from it because the bacteria are taking care of it. Any reading of ammonia means it is overwhelming the bacteria. I never do water changes that are less than 50%. That is what my weekly water changes are in cycled tanks. If I had any ammonia in a tank, I would not hesitate to do 2 back to back 50% water changes. Large water changes are a good thing. I have never had a problem doing them. Ask someone who raise discus if they have a problem with large water changes.

    There are no products that remove ammonia. Only ones that will bind it to make it non toxic for short periods.

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