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Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. Default New to SW - please advise


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi there. I'm a longtime FW person who's now trying SW. I have two biocube setups - one 29g, one 14g, both with live rock and live sand, fully cycled. My water parameters are great and have been stable from week to week for about a month. SG is at 1.024, temp 76. pH is about 8.3 in both tanks.

    I've got a lot of algae, so I've got two turbos in the bigger tank, a scarlet and a blue hermit, a handful of smaller hermits, and a nassarius who I don't see much of. Smaller tank - one turbo, blue hermit, and a handful of little hermits.

    Corals are doing okay - leather and paly in the bigger tank, mushroom in the smaller.

    Questions:
    - my emerald crab died. At first I thought it was molting, but when the white stuff started to get stringy, I figured out it wasn't a molt. What kills emeralds? He was nibbling on the paly a day or two before he died - could that have killed him?

    - I got a feather duster worm last week. He did not make it, sadly (he was SO cool!) - he came out of his sheath in the bag on the way home and only lived a couple days after that. LFS guy said they're easy to care for. I do want to try again - any tips? (I'm dosing with Phytofeast right now. The leather and paly seem to like it, too.)

    - I've got hair algae on my live sand, and the hermit crabs aren't keeping up with it. Any recommendations?

    - There's a thick slab of something neon green on one of my rocks. It's turning purple/black and I see small bubbles forming now. Could this be bubble algae, and if so, what can I get to eat it? Or should I just take the rock out and scrape it off?

    - How many hours a day should I have the T5s on versus the standard tank lights?

    Sorry to dump a bunch of questions, but I feel like a failure because things keep randomly dying, even though the water tests perfect. Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by LauraL View Post
    Questions:
    - my emerald crab died. At first I thought it was molting, but when the white stuff started to get stringy, I figured out it wasn't a molt. What kills emeralds? He was nibbling on the paly a day or two before he died - could that have killed him?
    Is the crab a newr addition to the tank ? How did you acclimate him to your set-up ? I don't think the palys would have done him in as he was likely picking stuff off of them and not eating them

    Quote Originally Posted by LauraL View Post
    - I got a feather duster worm last week. He did not make it, sadly (he was SO cool!) - he came out of his sheath in the bag on the way home and only lived a couple days after that. LFS guy said they're easy to care for. I do want to try again - any tips? (I'm dosing with Phytofeast right now. The leather and paly seem to like it, too.)
    Feather dusters do best in established set-ups. They are every easy to keep in established aquariums but can often be hard to keep in new aquariums. As they are filter feeders, the will feed on the tiny, almost microscopic organisms that will live in your water. Dosing the phytofeast should have helped with that tho. Maybe something was a little off on your parameters. Have you been testing your calcium and alkalinity levels ?

    Quote Originally Posted by LauraL View Post
    - I've got hair algae on my live sand, and the hermit crabs aren't keeping up with it. Any recommendations?

    - There's a thick slab of something neon green on one of my rocks. It's turning purple/black and I see small bubbles forming now. Could this be bubble algae, and if so, what can I get to eat it? Or should I just take the rock out and scrape it off?
    That dosen't sound like bubble algae. Bubble algae will look like big round bubble or bubbles, or like a bunch of grapes. Goggle pictures of cyano and dinoflanges. That would be my guess as to what you have growing in your tank. Have you been testing your nitrate and phosphate levels ? Typically higher levels of either of those two will lead to all types of algae. Dosing the phytofeast often helps that as well

    Quote Originally Posted by LauraL View Post
    - How many hours a day should I have the T5s on versus the standard tank lights?
    If you don't have a lot og high demanding corals so I would suggest about 7 hours for the T5s. What type of corals do you have and what type of T5 bulbs are you using ? What type of lights are the standard tank lights you are talking about ?
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I had everything checked last week - nitrates/nitrites, Ca, Magnesium, pH, phosphates. Everything was great, although the phosphates were *slightly* elevated.

    The emerald crab had been in the tank for about a month. He was one of the first inhabitants after it cycled. He didn't show any signs of trouble, though he was a little less active in the week before he kicked the bucket. I'm glad to hear it probably wasn't the paly's fault. I'd like to get another emerald crab - they're so much fun to watch.

    The corals are a finger leather and a small palythoa. In the smaller tank, there's a tiny red mushroom frag.

    The lights in the tank are a 36 watt True Actinic 03 Blue and a 36 watt 10,000K Daylight. The actinic is the one I was talking about.

    I removed most of the Slab o'Slime by hand this morning when I did a water change. Whatever it was, even the turbos wouldn't eat it. Plus, it looked like it was dying. Ick. I did take a look at your hitchhiker sticky (which is fantastic, by the way) - I'm thinking it might have been a dinoflange. It definitely came with the rock.

    And thanks for the info about the feather duster. I'll wait a few months before trying again. VERY cool beastie.
    Last edited by LauraL; 05-25-2013 at 01:59 PM.

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If it was dinos and your crab ate some, that would explain this death

    As far as the water parameters go, do you know the exact numbers ? That would pretty important info. Everyone has a slightly different definition of "great" and "slightly" while the numbers will always be the numbers.

    If you can keep you alkalinity close to 9 (dKH), your calcium level in balance with your dKH, and your magnesium between 1350 and 1400 ppm, it will greatly slow the grow of your algae including the dinos. If you keep your nitrates at 1.0ppm or less and your phosphates un detectable, your algae will die off. Raising your salinity to 1.026 can help with that as well. I've posted a link below with more detailed information if you would like

    How much water do you change each week ?

    http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/the...er-parameters/
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Sorry, I don't have the numbers. The guy at the LFS did the Ca/Mg/alkalinity and phosphate test. He said the alkalinity was great - on the high side, which he said is good. Nitrates were undetectable.

    I change 10% - 15% a week, though after the crab and feather duster died, I've done a couple more 10% changes (Wed. and this AM) just to make sure I didn't get a spike since they had started to decay slightly. Everything else seems 100% okay.

    My salinity is lower than 1.026. I am going shopping for a refractometer today. (I've got a hydrometer now, but I'm doubting its accuracy.)

    I've also added a powerhead. That may help a little with the algae. The corals seem to like it, too. It's a Hydor 600, which looks really big in the tank :( but that's the GPH koralia recommends for 29. I may end up switching it out for a 425 later on.

    We're hoping to eventually add a chromis, an ocellaris, and a 6-line wrasse in the 29g, but we're going slow. (I know - the wrasse goes last. :) ) We're really more interested in the inverts and corals, anyway. (We've got no shortage of FW fish in this house already.)

    Thank you very much for the help!

  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    As Cliff has taught me, water movement is really important in a saltwater set-up especially if you have live rock.
    I'm sure the Hydro 600 looks a little large in your tank but keep it in there.
    The live rock needs to have water flowing over/around it to let the BB get what it needs.
    If the current from the 600 is too strong for your liking, get the 425 and point it towards the live rock and corals, point the 600 towards the surface so the water is ripply, you'll also get flow going across the tank. One power head at each end of the tank.
    Keep the positive attitude and keep posting.
    Warning; Bulldog Pleco guarding my Sons tank now..

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  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You're right about the water flow. Everything looks happier with the new powerhead.

    I picked up a new emerald crab yesterday, a chromis, and a really nice little toadstool leather frag. All seem to be doing well this morning. The crab started eating as soon as I put him in, the toadstool has full polyp extension, and the chromis is out and about, good color, and eating a little flake last night and this AM. So I'm cautiously optimistic.

    How often do you feed your clean-up crew? Or do you? I've been dropping in a few pellets every other day. But now that there's a fish in there and I'm feeding him, I'm thinking the leftover flake might be enough to keep the CUC happy.

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    They will eat left over food (if any) before eating anything else. Once they are cleaned up that, they will eat the algae that grows or starts to grow in the tank which is a natural part of their diet. I would only suggest actually feeding your CUC if you don't have anything for them to clean up, or as the occational treat for them.

    I almost never feed my CUC now that there is a little algae in my tanks. I will feed a little extra once every 3 weeks or so to give them a little treat, but that is about it
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

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