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 Originally Posted by Lady Hobbs
Add your dechlorinator to the tank and then fill it with water.
To the tank?
I've been filling a bucket with a water and then dechlorinating the bucket, using enough dechlorinator to treat the tank or more (I know Prime can be used at 5x the usual dosage safely so I don't skimp). Is this wrong? Was under the impression it was always better to treat the water before it entered the tank.
Brilliant! I think the problem was I was expecting a... linear experience when cycling. Expecting it'd all be simple transitions between the three components. When it started zipping around like a blue backsided fly... was something of a shock. Glad to hear things might be levelling off... Been rather concerned!
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If you're filling with buckets it's great to add the Prime to the water before you pour it in to the tank.
I believe LadyHobbs was coming from the perspective of using a water changer, in which case, you add the Prime to your water before you start running fresh water into the tank.
So you're doing fine.
Congrats. I sounds like you're cycled. Continue to check Ammonia and nitrites for a while and do check those nitrates. If the tank is cycled, only your nitrates will fluctuate and you'll want to keep on top of that to insure they don't get much higher than 20ppm.
30 g FW planted:corys, female ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, rummies,
15 g FW planted:2 male guppies, neons, pygmy corys, clown pleco, 4 types of shrimp, assassin snails
90 Gal Journal: http://bit.ly/1vC7gVX
fishless cycling: http://bit.ly/1DARf3T
fish in cycling: http://bit.ly/1ILvcfp
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In your first post you said you did have nitrites, so it isn't like you skipped them all together. Every cycle is different, some have huge spikes and some don't. There have even been a few people on the forum that skipped nitrites completely, still trying to figure out how that happened.
The amount of nitrate isn't important in regards to if a tank is cycled, all that is important in that case is if you have them, not what level they are, but as FM said, since you have fish in the tank you will want to keep the nitrates at or below 20ppm.
I agree with the previous posters, your tank seems to be cycled. Since it isn't a stereotypical cycle I suggest you watch it closely over the next few weeks and keep testing the parameters.
When I go fishing I just throw sharp rocks in the water and wait for the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
Everything happens for a reason. Sometimes that reason is you are stupid and make bad decisions.
I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
Dear naps, sorry I hated you so much when I was a child... Love me
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Again it was just the surprise of how random it was compared to my expectations, threw me off course. Nitrites where there and suddenly not and then ammonia was back and then that vanished. Not the linearity I was expecting. Was pretty set on the fact that I'd fumbled the ball somewhere.
Will certainly be monitoring closely for any shifts. In regard to the nitrates there's not a huge amount I can currently do due to the tap water being so rough. Water changes have actually added more nitrates than were removed at times. RO system will be installed just as soon as the funding is available to do so - hopefully be in a couple of weeks. Will then start gradually start the shift away from tap water and hopefully be pure RO (remineralised) in a few months.
In the meantime I'm just cutting back on the cause. So currently feeding very little, clearing the sand each day of any waste etc.
Thank you all so much for the help and advice. Would have probably had a nervous meltdown otherwise... much so appreciated.
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I don't know much about RO water - but you might want to ask the experts here on the forum if RO is the way you want to go. Is your water extremely hard or high in nitrates out of the tap? If not, RO may not be necessary and you could save that expense.
Again - you may have already researched this and have determined that you need it ... just tossing it out there as few here use anything but treated tap water.
30 g FW planted:corys, female ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, rummies,
15 g FW planted:2 male guppies, neons, pygmy corys, clown pleco, 4 types of shrimp, assassin snails
90 Gal Journal: http://bit.ly/1vC7gVX
fishless cycling: http://bit.ly/1DARf3T
fish in cycling: http://bit.ly/1ILvcfp
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Unfortunately it is. pH is around 8.5 and I've had nitrate readings straight from the tap that turned the test scarlet. To my eye it looked around 80+. Other main concern was that those nitrates were more than likely being washed off of fields, so fertilisers and who knows what... I just don't trust the tap water.
It's not that expensive for what it is... rental unit is £17.99 a month or less and I don't need to worry about changing membranes or replacing parts if anything goes kaput.
(It's also a really nice excuse to get back into carnivorous plant keeping as well...!)
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I would not suggest using straight RO water in your aquarium. The reason being is that all of the minerals will be stripped out of the water resulting in a unstable pH. However, you could mix the RO water with tap water (about 50/50). That should help a lot with your water quality
Better quality RO units typically will also have prefilter and carbon cartridges that will need to be replaced every 6 months or so based on your actual tap water quality. You might want to double to make sure if the unit you are renting has a prefilter and carbon and if they are covered as a part of rental fees
If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]
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 Originally Posted by Cliff
I would not suggest using straight RO water in your aquarium. The reason being is that all of the minerals will be stripped out of the water resulting in a unstable pH. However, you could mix the RO water with tap water (about 50/50). That should help a lot with your water quality
Better quality RO units typically will also have prefilter and carbon cartridges that will need to be replaced every 6 months or so based on your actual tap water quality. You might want to double to make sure if the unit you are renting has a prefilter and carbon and if they are covered as a part of rental fees
All covered! Talldutchie recommended JBL Aquadur and it seems to have good reviews across the board so have some of that in my bookmarks, ready for purchase. I would mix with tap water but the nitrates spike are rather random and can be quite high. Even a 50/50 mix might not cut it back to levels I'm comfortable with.
I'm meticulous with small print and hidden costs, quite a few utility providers probably have me black listed by now. Site says that the rental cost covers and I quote "installation, all filter changes and maintenance". Though I can assure you I will still be making a phone call to double check :p.
I know that chlorine is removed separately as it's large enough to punch a hole in the membrane... though I'm not sure if it uses a carbon filter.
More stuff to find out when I make the phone call, appreciated.
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Sounds like you have this all planned out, good job !!!
Let us know what you think about the JBL Aquadur.
If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]
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