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Results 11 to 20 of 42
  1. #11


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Hardy85 View Post
    Ok, so #'s will be reduced, do you think a 1m/3f mix would be better? I would like a small school of dither fish (such as rummynose etc)
    I'd think those numbers are doable in the 30Gs. Do you really need dither fish for rams/apistos? If so I'd choose something that sticks more to the top levels of the tank. From what I've seen rummynoses are mid to lower-mid level swimmers. Zebra danios are fairly traditional breeder dithers, and fast enough to keep themselves out of harm's way.
    "Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known." Carl Sagan

    ~ 350 Litre Tank Journal ~ ~ 30 Litre Tank Journal ~

  2. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    I don't need them, but considering the tanks will all be display tanks I was hoping for a small schooling fish. Ideally would like to keep every tank as close to a biotope as possible.

    So far I had considered Lemon Tetras, Serpae, and Rummynose. But those are the least important types for the entire build. Mainly in the to make the show fish come out and be comfortable.

    Thinking a sandy leafy substrate as I have seen in natural tanks such as this

  3. #13


    0 Not allowed!
    Ah yes, I've seen those videos (they're excellent for biotope research!)
    "Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known." Carl Sagan

    ~ 350 Litre Tank Journal ~ ~ 30 Litre Tank Journal ~

  4. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Except he doesn't provide any species names for the plants etc!!!! otherwise they are amazing

  5. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Ok so the fish wall, has become a wall with a 3x10 room behind it lol. I can then cover the front with some nice tongue and groove boards, maybe have small hinged doors to feed from the outside, but otherwise have it so most of the work is done behind the tanks. I had wanted to paint the back of the tanks, but might not so that I can see from the other side (maybe just have a black sheet hanging in the new room so that when I walk in there I can move it, but when no work is being done it looks like a black background

  6. #16


    0 Not allowed!
    Tanks sitting that high up will be very unhandy. Anything over eye level will not be very easy to work with and that's a lot of things to plug into one or two outlets. I think you need to think this one through a bit more.
    Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 04-29-2013 at 02:59 PM.

  7. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Ideally I would like to have this on its own breaker or two. I know a few electricians that would handle that (me + electricity = fire and pain)

    The upper tanks may get relocated, ideally would want at that height tho. Could just make the entire backroom that I am thinking up on a 1' tall raised floor, that would put the top of those tanks at only 6' from inside the room, which wouldn't be too hard to maintain. It's a work in progress but this has been my favorite layout so far.

    The heaters would be the biggest draw on power, but with the room idea that I am thinking, that could be reduced by quite a bit while still give me the show tanks in a public area (room would have a few couches, a TV, game console for when I have all the guys over to watch sports / play video games - it's a miracle I'm not single lol

  8. #18


    0 Not allowed!
    Well, if you put a 12" deep tank on top of a 6 ft frame, you are now at 7 ft from the floor. I just can't fathom trying to work on tanks 7 ft in the air. The cords to the equipment is not even that long so that will pose another problem or numerous extension cords.

    Perhaps you should take a trip to the fish store that has tiered tank racks and take some measurements of those OR put up a fake wall so the tanks can all be lowered with plumbing going behind that wall? Just my two cents worth here but I just don't see this as a plan that will work.

  9. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Fake wall?

    I'm thinking that this tank rack will be about 3' from the wall, and have that 3' enclosed for heat reasons. Have a door so it is accessible and possibly have 10' long set of 2 steps allowing me to access top tanks without much effort. You're right about the cord lengths though, outlets would need to be incorporated in different areas of the build to allow for things to plug in.

    This is just the ideal plan. Things do need tweaked, I think its possible and having a few things to think about never hurts. Also, I don't plan on having to do much maintenance to the upper tanks. Will need to do the occasional glass cleaning and water changes, the water changes I have a system in mind for that, and would need a easy way to clean up the little bit of algae / feed the upper tanks.

    I think doing a false floor would actually work out a little easier (lift me up 12") thus making top of upper tanks at 6'

  10. #20


    0 Not allowed!
    It took me a while to realize that all tanks, heaters and hob filters were costing me a lot to run. The monthly power bills were getting very high. I took out the tank heaters, just kept them for certain fish that required better temps. When you have a lot tanks, that means a lot of heaters to buy and then the cost to run them all. If the fish tanks are all in one room, easier to put a room heater in. I took out the small hob filters off all the tanks and replaced them with sponge filters. Sponge filters run off a large air pump. Only use a few canister filters on a few of the larger tanks.

    By the way you can borrow a kill-a-watt meter from many public libraries. Several years ago public libraries in most states were given the meters, they can be signed out.

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