Results 21 to 30 of 61
04-29-2013, 03:23 PM #21
Your BB grows in your filter and filter media, not the water, so no. You loose nothing by doing water changes.
At this stage in your cycle, don't touch your filter, no matter how dirty you feel it is. Don't rinse the media, dont clean the filter. Don't replace the filter media - even if the instructions say to do so. I have the same filter media I started in my 30 gallon over a year ago and plan to use it until it literally falls apart. Once your tank is fully cycled, if the media needs cleaning, simply rinse it gently in OLD TANK water. NEVER in tap water as the chlorine in the water will kill all that BB you've worked so hard to grow.
04-29-2013, 05:45 PM #22
This makes perfect sense! I regrettably changed 2/4 cartridges two days ago because the packaging told me to do so... is this just a marketing scheme? To be honest, this is the first time I've been told to not replace the filter cartridges, but it certainly makes sense why you would not want to.
Silly question, don't the filter cartridges lose their ability to remove chlorine (via the carbon) after being in there for so long? I understand the growth of good bacteria on the sponge, but don't you want to replace the carbon? Or do regular water changes take the place of even needing carbon?
04-29-2013, 05:56 PM #23
Yes, it is a marketing measure to sell their product. You don't need to ever change them unless they literally fall apart as the fiber fill material also holds BB.
The filters cartridges do not remove chlorine. Your water conditioner does that when you do your water changes. Seachams Prime is the best on the market. It removes chlorine and chloramines and is the most concentrated of all products therefore more cost effective. Every time you change your water, add enough Prime (or whatever conditioner you're using) to treat the entire tank regardless of how large of a water change you make.
The carbon in your filter cartridges is mostly for water clarity and is ineffective after 30 days. Doesn't hurt to leave it in there but it basically does nothing. Weekly water changes (once your tank is cycled) will keep your water clear without new carbon. Few people I know of use carbon in their tanks so it's completely optional.
04-29-2013, 05:59 PM #24
carbon is made too remove certain impurities in the water. it is not designed to hold bacteria. and after 2 weeks carbon does lose it's effect. carbon NEVER removes chlorine. that's what your stress reducer is for. but carbon will still hold bacteria, just not as well as the other media. this doesn't mean change your media. then you would lose every bacteria in there. i would say wait till you are fully cycled than remove ONE carbon slot and replace it with bio-max or bio-balls. just because there are carbon slots in your filter, doesn't mean you have to put carbon in them! then one month late replace another one. and another one the month later. but i would still leave 1 carbon in there or replace it with a debris sponge(at the pet store) to pick up debris.
04-29-2013, 08:33 PM #25Junior Member Guppy
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Chilliwack, Canada
get some plants, or lots of plants, find some fast growing plants ( i have no idea what your LFS)
your tank still needs to cycle as everyone has talked about
plants will help lower your nitrates.
Eco complete can help (as much as you trust the bacteria to still work properly after it's been in it's sealed package for an extended period of time)
a water conditioner to lower ammonia & nitrites can help to lower those. don't depend on it, just use enough to keep your fish from dying, else your tank will have a difficult time establishing the good bacteria you want
none of these are cheap (well the water conditioner is fairly cheap)
snails can help as an 'after-the-fact' addition to help deal with extra food and detritus to reduce additional ammonia from being produced by this stuff rotting and decomposing in your tank. once you've got snails it's going to be almost impossible to get rid of them.
i love aquarium sponges, i don't use it so much to remove detritus from the water column but as a media that can culture lots of good bacteria.
i never replace these sponges, but squish water through them to clean them out lots. i use an aquaclear 30 for a 30 gallon, it's got a sponge filter on the intake, i've removed all the cartridges and bags and have 3 more sponge filters inside
i've got lots of plants, lots of light (13 hours), 4x24" 6500K lights + daylight
last water change i did, ... oh dear, i can't remember that far back.
many would like to freak that i don't do any water changes, everything is healthy, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates are negligible, ... so i gotta be doing something right.... might be overkill on my beneficial bacteria and i did say lots of plants, ... kinda excessive. (it's hard to see all the fish, they have lots of places to hide and only come out when it's time to eat)
as for other people, this works for me. i don't recommend it for everyone.
as for fixing your tank, ... it's going to take time.
water conditioner should help you keep things alive
a test kit to let you know how scary the water is.
get plants, won't add to your bioload, will help lower it.
could mention screwing with your PH (PH8.0), will convert your ammonia to non-toxic ammonium, ... but the PH shift is going to be dangerous to your fish, especially as they're already stressed."You cannot understand a system until you try to change it."
04-29-2013, 08:35 PM #26
Yea that makes sense. So if I'm following correctly, both the BioWheel and filter cartridges hold the BB? Therefore I should not change them unless absolutely necessary. That's a relief, not only for my wallet but for maintenance in general!
04-29-2013, 09:19 PM #27
yes they do hold the bb. but carbon doesn't hold them very well.
but i am saying once you get your tank fully cycled i would change
two to 3 carbon slots over a 3-4 month time. not with more carbon but something like this http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=2754140
and just leave it until it falls apart.
04-29-2013, 09:28 PM #28Junior Member Guppy
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Chilliwack, Canada
every surface in your tank holds good bacteria, your bio-wheel, your substrate, the walls on your aquarium, the side of your fish, any plants, your water heater, the inside of your aquarium pump. fish poop as it breaks down will also colonize with desirable bacteria.
some run tanks without sand or gravel or any substrate, (lots of rockwork) and there's enough good bacteria to reduce the nitrogen cycle down to nitrate without issue.
it takes time to develop though, that's the only thing holding you back, just takes time."You cannot understand a system until you try to change it."
04-29-2013, 10:41 PM #29
Thanks for the link Vafa, I will definitely be purchasing one of those down the road.
And thank you Flear, for the encouragement :) I guess I just need to be patient and not stress myself out too much. After all this is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun! In the mean time I will keep you all posted as the tank progresses, thanks!
04-29-2013, 10:49 PM #30
Also, your filter is only rated for up to 70 gal - on a 55 gal, you need filtration for 110 gallons. You should add a 2nd filter, maybe an Aqua Clear 50 or even better, a 70. That would give you filtration for either 120 or 140 gallons and help keep your water healthy. On my 75 gal I have 2 Aqua Clear 110s and so far (fingers crossed), my nitrates have never been over 10 before my weekly water change.
Last edited by gronlaura; 04-29-2013 at 11:04 PM.75 gal - Smudge Spot Cories, Silvertip & Pristella Tetras, Scissortail & Red Tail Rasboras, Pearl Gourami, Black Kuhli Loaches, Whiptail Cats, Wild Caught BNP
Dual 29 gals - Diamond Tetras. Harlequin Rasboras, Bloodfin Tetras
10 Gal - Mr. Betta's Fishy Paradise
"Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass....it's about learning to dance in the rain"