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Results 1 to 10 of 61
  1. Default *HELP* First time aquarium owner, high Nitrate and Nitrite levels


    0 Not allowed!
    Hello all!

    I am a first time aquarium owner and I've been having some issues for the past two days with high Nitrate and Nitrite levels (they are maxed out on the strips I am using). Here is all pertinent information:

    Tank Size: 55 gallons
    Filter: 1X Marineland Penguin 350 (I am using the dual cartridge feature on each side, for a total of 4 cartridges)
    How long I've had the aquarium: 4 weeks
    Weekly water change: 25-30%
    Feeding habits: Flakes (twice daily); algae wafers (once daily)
    Temperature: 72 - 74 degrees (no heater needed so far)
    Ammonia: 0
    pH: 7.5

    Stocking Info:
    Spotted Rubberlip Pleco 1
    Velvet Wag Swordtail (F) 2
    Black Skirt Tetra 6
    Mystery Snail 2
    Siamese Algae Eater 1
    Molly (Dalmation, Silver) 2
    Zebra Danio 5
    Torquoise Guppy 4

    Since I am new I went with aqadvisor.com as a guide. According to it, I am at 92% capacity, see this link for my tank:
    http://www.aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.p...rchMode=simple

    I am concerned for my fish, and feel that they are starting to show signs of nitrate/nitrite poison. I just did a 25% water change yesterday, should I do another one today? Someone please help a brotha out! Am I overstocked? Or perhaps this spike is normal because my aquarium is still establishing itself? The high levels have lasted for approximately 2 days.

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    WHen you say your nitrite and nitrate levels are high, what is the amount they are at ?

    As you have nitrites in the water, your tank is not cycled yet. There is a link below in my sig to a thread here that explains how to cycle with fish. You will have to base the size of your water change on your test results. Your goal right now would be to make sure your nitrite and ammoina levels stay at or below 0.25 ppm. For example, If any one of those two levels would hit 1.0ppm, you would need to complete a 75% water change to reduce it back down to 0.25ppm

    Typically, 25% water changes won't help alot when your parameters are already off
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    also i would not use strips to test your water.
    get an api master test kit and use that.
    strips are inaccurate.
    you should do 50-75% water changes a day

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Okay thank you both for the quick response. I will do a 75% water change tonight as I have already noticed one of my Molly's is showing signs of nitrate/nitrite poisoning. Her swimming patterns are off and I've caught her coming close to belly up on multiple occasions.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    In your opinion is my tank overstocked? According to aqadvisor.com I should be fine...?

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by tychondrias View Post
    In your opinion is my tank overstocked? According to aqadvisor.com I should be fine...?
    And one of the downfalls of that site is showing here because apparently nothing in your research mentioned that you cannot add that many fish that many weeks in a row and expect your BB colony to keep up.

    Even if their projection is accurate - NO uncycled filtration system could be expected to keep pace with the additions.

    Either way, AA is good for sketching NOT for final drafts.

    You have an uncycled tank that is showing TrItes.. The best case scenario is that you stocked too quickly.

    As mentioned ditch the strips and get a far more accurate master test kit.

    Please answer Talldutchies questions in his first post here: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...d.php?t=112014

    They are relevant to this thread too.
    Gas mileage isn't everything OIIIIIIIO
    Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
    Why pretend there are no stupid questions? Actually, There are many stupid questions: "Should I drink this bleach?" Is just one example.
    Having said that, Just because it's a stupid question doesn't mean that it shouldn't be asked. It's better to know.

    A warm beer is better than a cold beer. Because nothing is better than a cold beer, and a warm beer is better than nothing.

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Nitrite is 10ppm and nitrate is 60ppm and I'm using the API strips, this is high isn't it?

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Nitrate starts to become toxic to most fish around 40ppm. If you are using test strips, it is hard to say if that if your test results are even accurate.

    I would suggest another 75% water change (play it safe) incase that test result was accurate and get a good liquid test kit as 11 has already suggested
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Strips are not renown for accuracy but having said that...

    Yes. ANY NitrItes indicates that your tank is not cycled [Or at least that it is not keeping up with your stocks bioload.] 10ppm is far past lethally toxic levels for nitrIte so I am guessing that is a typo or a reflection of the strips 'accuracy'.

    60 TrAtes is a level roughly three times more than what they would measure when you would be due to do a WC. I keep mine well under 20ppm and 40 is generally considered nearly toxic trAtes

    Retest your trAtes, As Cliff mentioned you need to do WC to bring your TrItes down to under .25 and they need to be maintained at under .25 [lower than harmful levels but still present to feed the growing BB colony] until your filter has fully cycled.

    Again when fully cycled you should not have ammonia or TrItes present. [With a liquid master test kit]

    Hope this helps.
    Gas mileage isn't everything OIIIIIIIO
    Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
    Why pretend there are no stupid questions? Actually, There are many stupid questions: "Should I drink this bleach?" Is just one example.
    Having said that, Just because it's a stupid question doesn't mean that it shouldn't be asked. It's better to know.

    A warm beer is better than a cold beer. Because nothing is better than a cold beer, and a warm beer is better than nothing.

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    As as been said, because you added so many fish so quickly even if your tank was cycled, your beneficial bacteria could not keep up with the new additions and your tank is no longer cycled. As has also been suggested, you need to purchase an API master liquid test kit.
    Test for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates every day before doing a water change. Until your tank is cycled, your goal is to keep ammonia and nitrites no higher than .25 and nitrates around 20 or less. This may involved 75% daily water changes or sometimes 2 W/C a day if your readings are really as high as you've said - again, the test strips are notoriously inaccurate.
    Good luck and get on those water changes.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, pair kribs, & nerite snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted:severum, EBJD, congos, royal pleco
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

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