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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I just wanted to take the time to let you all know about my progress and also to thank you again for all of your input. After I got home from work the day of my last post, I changed out another 25 gallons and managed to get the nitrites below 0.25ppm. I continued doing 20 gallon water changes daily and it seemed that as quickly as the nitrites would drop they would be right back up again. Finally I broke down and vacuumed about 30% of the gravel with each water change cause I could see algae tab particles building up in the gravel. I also decided to go ahead and put a second filter cartridge in the additional slot hoping it would give more area for my good bacteria to grow. I have officially been at 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites since Sunday morning so I went ahead and got 2 more cory catfish to keep my one little guy company. Everyone has been doing well, I've still continued with daily water changes even though my nitrites and ammonia have remained at 0. I also added 4 live plants purchased from Petco that were "guaranteed snail free". I'm keeping a close eye on these plants because although the fish loved the anacharis in the last tank, I think I may have purchased a not so healthy plant to begin with and the death and rotting material in the tank only compounded my toxicity issue. These plants seem to be very healthy and the fish have spent more time swimming through them and actually seem to be enjoying the various other decor in the tank more as well. As long as the ammonia and nitrites remain at 0, how long would you recommend waiting to add additional fish?

    Thank you all again for your great advice! I can tell my fish are much happier, as am I!

  2. #12

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Most people will wait a week or two to make sure their ammonia stays at 0 before adding additional fish - as you know, the filter needs time to adjust to the new fish ammonia.

    As long as ammonia & nitrites are 0 and nitrates are 20ppm or less, there is no need to change your water daily - a 50% change once a week is fine like many of us do.

    One other thing I will recommend that many of us do is to set up a smaller tank for quarantining new fish - fish get stressed from being transferred from store to your home and can show symptoms/signs of illness from the stress - it's easier to treat something in a smaller tank and cheaper than having to treat your whole main tank, especially if it's something other fish can catch.

    Many of us run a smaller filter (like a sponge filter or small HOB) in our main tanks at all times (to keep it cycled) and then just put it in the small tank for quarantine purposes.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  3. #13

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I thing I saw that might be hurting is that you hadn't been using the prime, by not using it you are killing the BB every time you do a water change. The water conditioner removes the chlorine from the tap water. The chlorine kills bacteria so you want to make sure to do that with every water change
    The Dirty 75
    11 Parva Rainbow, 2 Platies, 14 Sterbai, 4 Calico BN Pleco
    My Triple 10 Stack
    My First AC Thread

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I have been using 5 gallon buckets purchased from Walmart specifically just for the fish...and I treat each bucket of water with 2.5mL of a conditioner prior to adding it into the tank and make sure I swish it around really well with my net to neutralize the chlorine and chloramines. Originally I was using the Aqueon sample bottle that came with my original 10 gal tank, and started using Stress Coat when I was done with that. I was also using the test strips daily to ensure that my chlorine was at 0. I honestly like the Aqueon better, probably because it's easier for me to use the squeeze cap and also read the measuring cup. I wish I had room and enough buckets to leave the water sitting out over night after treating it, but I just don't, and also I'd have a hard time matching the temp since my room temp water is about 72-74 and with my heater, my 37 gal is kept between 75-78. I was wondering if anyone knows of reasonably priced test strips so I could check each bucket of water before adding it to my tank. When I went to Petco the other day I was told that the only product they know of to check chlorine was the 6 in 1 strips which are WAY TOO expensive to use 4 with each water change to test each bucket. Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid, but despite my huge mistakes that I've made, I really don't want to cause the fish any unnecessary stress. If I were to get a pool testing kit, would that measure small enough concentrations of chlorine to give me an adequate reading? I was also curious cause several people have told me that you have to be very precise with the water conditioner and the other day someone told me that if I'm concerned as to whether or not I'm adding enough to just add extra. I'm trying to find a needleless syringe to draw up 2.5 mL as I am just eyeballing it right now and that's driving my Type A personality mad! LOL!

    I'm so glad to have found this forum, it just seemed like all of the stuff I was being told and reading were all conflicting and it's nice to hear from people who actually keep tropical fish at home and almost ALL of you seem to agree on advice. You know what they say...If you read it on the internet, it must be true!

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    First - congrats on getting your tank cycled. You worked really hard on that and did a great job.
    Second - I think you're over stressing on the chlorine. Simply treat your water with enough dechlorinator to treat the entire tank (I usually add a little extra) and dump it in the tank. No need to let it set. Seachams Prime is the best product out there. You don't need stress coat or anything else if you use it. It will take care of chlorine and chloramines and help neutralize any traces of ammonia. It's also very concentrated so it goes a long way.
    So I wouldn't bother with the test strips (test strips for ammonia, nitrites and nitrated are generally very inaccurate anyway) but do get an API master liquid test kit and once a week, before your water change, test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates - at least in this early stage. Once your cycle is a little more mature, you won't need to test nearly as often.
    And I'd wait 2 - 3 weeks before adding new fish. Give your cycle a chance to mature. Also add fish sparingly and has been suggested, you might want to consider a quarantine tank.
    Again - good job.
    Last edited by fishmommie; 04-25-2013 at 03:53 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You can usually get a syringe from the local CO-OP. They carry all sizes. Plus you could talk to your Vet

    How about some pictures of this tank you have worked so hard on.
    Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without

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