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  1. Exclamation Betta with ammonia burn!!?!?!


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm almost 100% positive my betta has ammonia burn. I have a fluval aqua clear with a ammo is packet inside to reduce ammonia. This is a highly planted tank, and has 3 cories and a bamboo shrimp and two danios and its a 10 gallon. I did a water change today of about 12 % water. Then I added conditioner and ammonia safe by tetra. What do I do? I don't want to lose my betta. Will adding more chemicals hurt him? Should I let the tank cycle more? Add stress coat? Idk what to do... Never had a betta before either just saying. But his gills are flared a lot and his chin is white like bleached and his gills have a dark tissue around them like his skin is shedding almost.

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    sounds less like ammonia burn and more like a fungal issue. could you post a picture?

    ammonia burn is a red flare of the gills.

    how did you cycle the tank?
    do you have a heater?
    how often do you change water or clean the filter?
    what are your water parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)
    What are you using to test?

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    + to Missoutank. all that would be good to know to help figure this out.
    In the meantime, 12% water change is not nearly enough. Whether he has fungus or ammonia burn, you need to do at least 75% water changes daily until he gets better. If ammonia is an issue, the W/C will dilute the ammonia. If it's fungus there's nothing better to cure it than fresh water.
    Make certain you add your dechlorinator before you add the new water. Also make sure the water is that same temp as the water you're replacing. Betta's should be kept at 82 degrees.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I have a tetra 10 gallon heater. My nitrate and nitrite stay around zero normally. I usually do water changes very two weeks. I use a aquarium pharmaceuticals inc test kit(drops not strips) and I cyed the tank with sterilized water and danios for about 2 weeks. And I have a fluval aqua clear filter. And now I added cories. They look happy as a clam and then I added a beta and he jus seems like he isn't doing well. And a bamboo shrimp is somewhere in there. I'm going to post a pic in a second

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    0 Not allowed!


    That's my YouTube video.

  6. #6

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Deathclaw View Post
    I have a tetra 10 gallon heater. My nitrate and nitrite stay around zero normally. I usually do water changes very two weeks. I use a aquarium pharmaceuticals inc test kit(drops not strips) and I cyed the tank with sterilized water and danios for about 2 weeks

    Running a tank with fish for 2 weeks doesn't "cycle" it. And the type of water you use doesn't matter either. Your tank is only cycled when your water parameters read 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites & 20ppm or less nitrates - which means monitoring your parameters with your kit until you get those readings. This might mean changing your water more than every 2 weeks because you need to keep your ammonia level at .25ppm & no higher. Testing will tell you when you need to change the water.

    Cycling means you are growing bacteria in the filter to break down the fish's ammonia - until that happens you have to remove the ammonia yourself via water changes.
    .

    And I have a fluval aqua clear filter. And now I added cories.

    If you are able to, I would recommend returning the danios if you can because they aren't appropriate for a 10gal tank - they grow too large and require too much swimming space (we are talking horizontal space).

    They look happy as a clam and then I added a beta and he jus seems like he isn't doing well. And a bamboo shrimp is somewhere in there. I'm going to post a pic in a second
    Please see my responses in red : )
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    It was still difficult to tell from the video but I'm in the fungus camp. Keep up those water changes - as I said, daily 50 - 75%. You never did say what the ammonia reads.
    Emma said it perfectly. take readings daily. never let ammonia get above .25 as the tank cycles. you would benefit from reading the free e-book here on the site and the stickie on cycling with fish in the beginners section.
    Also - don't use sterilized or distilled water. it lacks basic minerals. just use tap water and, again, make certain you use a good dechlorinator like Seachams Prime or Tetra Safe. always use enough dechlorinator to treat the entire 10 gallons no matter how much water you replace.
    Avoid any other chemicals and salt and keep that water clean. Once this settles down, you can start a 50% weekly water change schedule as long as your ammonia and nitrites remain 0 and your nitrates are 20 or less by the end of the week before your W/C.
    Good luck and let us know how things go of if it gets worse
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I just wanted to add that it's not uncommon for bettas to come from the store with fungus/ammonia burns/a whole bunch of other problems. That sets them up to not do well in a new tank, especially if there is some stress and some ammonia buildup.

    Read up on cycling. Keep on eye on your parameters(ammonia, nitrite, nitrate). You will have to keep these pretty perfect if you want your fish to get better. And water change, water change, water change. It's really the best thing for everybody. And keep your temp up to 80F...bettas really do like it hotter than most community fish.

    Cycling a tank with a single betta is really not difficult, it's those other fish that make me worry...you'll have to test a lot. Or perhaps remove the danios? IDK if they really like a 10G anyway. I have two male bettas, each have their own 10 gallon tank, one shares his tank with a nerite snail. They are very happy fish. Sounds like a crazy waste of space, but one healthy fish is worth a bunch of cramped, sick ones, I hope you agree.

    Unfortunately, when you start taking care of bettas, it's a whole 'nother ball game in the fish world. They are just so different from other fish, and they need different things. Good luck...I hope your fish pulls through. Keep us posted.
    Beth
    1 - 55 gallon planted community
    3 - 10 to 20 gallon planted betta tanks
    My advice: slow down, think, and be willing to learn. Then you'll be fine, no matter what.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    What type of danios? Danios are usually more sensitive than Bettas. How do they appear health wise? Clamping, shimy etc? How is the shrimp interacting with the betta at night? It appears as if something is giving old betta a nibble nibble.
    What is the temperature of the tank? Bettas like a warmer temp 82 plus, danios tend to like it a bit cooler 78 or so. Adding chemicals will not solve the problems. Water changes and monitoring the water quality are the solution. Be careful in doing your water changes with fish that are already stressed. I recommend only a 33% change on them to avoid chlorine burning and added complications. You can do this every 3 days to equal the 50% that many promote.

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You need a test kit and can not guess what ammonia or nitrites levels are. If those levels are over .25, then water changes are needed. But water changes should be done weekly as part of general maintence. As fishmommy stated, 12% does nothing. If ammonia is high and you change 12%, ammonia is still high.

    Add no more fish until you know you have a cycled tank. Bottom feeders are the last fish to go in a tank and only after it's well cycled.

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