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Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. Unhappy Confusing test results


    0 Not allowed!
    My tank and equipment

    Tank: 29 Gallon Freshwater.
    Filter: Aqueon Quiet flow 30 gal (upgrading to Aquaclear 70 today)
    Light: 24 inch T8, 17 Watt, full spectrum
    Heater: 100 Watt
    Substrate: Aquarium Gravelia
    Decorations: Artificial log/Silk plants
    Stock: 5 Male Green Cobra Guppies
    Test Kit: API master test kit.
    Cycled: No, I'm fish-in cycling right now. Been doing so since mid March.
    Water treatment: Seachem Prime

    Current Parameters

    Ammonia= about .25
    Nitrite= 0 (have never seen them register yet)
    Nitrate= about 10
    pH= 7.4-7.6

    Problem

    Since I am fish-in cycling, I have been doing water changes about every 2-3 days in an effort to keep my guppies happy and healthy. I tested yesterday and got a reading of -

    Ammonia= about .25
    Nitrite= 0
    Nitrate= 10-20
    pH= 7.4-7.6

    I did a 30% water change yesterday and retested my parameters this morning (about 16 hours later). The only thing that dropped is my nitrate. So I did a 50% water change today to try and lower the ammonia from about .25 to about 0. Within two days I have done about an 80% water change. I just retested my water (see current parameters) and my ammonia is still about .25.

    I tested my tap water that I am filling the tank with, it has ammonia in it. I treat my tap water with Seachem Prime. I tested a 5 gal sample of my tap water before adding Prime, then I tested a sample of 5 gal after adding Prime. They both read about .25.

    Am I doing something wrong? I am pretty confused.

    1) I have read that Prime "detoxifies ammonia" would that mean the API test kit is still getting a reading of ammonia, but in a non-toxic form? OR would it remove the ammonia all together and give me an accurate reading as to how much toxic ammonia remains in the water?

    2) If it takes time for the Prime to work, would that mean that I should test a few hours after the water change in order to get an accurate reading? If so, how long after?

    3) If Prime takes a while to work and detoxifies/removes ammonia when I add the water to the tank, if my ammonia drops, how can I be certain its from bacteria consuming it, and not the prime removing it?

    3) Will adding Prime disrupt my ability to cycle the tank and establish BB colonies because it removes/detoxifies ammonia?


    I hope this wasn't too wordy, if I can do anything to provide clarity, please let me know.

    Sincerely,
    Confused and frustrated.

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ickyvolnao View Post


    1) I have read that Prime "detoxifies ammonia" would that mean the API test kit is still getting a reading of ammonia, but in a non-toxic form? OR would it remove the ammonia all together and give me an accurate reading as to how much toxic ammonia remains in the water?

    2) If it takes time for the Prime to work, would that mean that I should test a few hours after the water change in order to get an accurate reading? If so, how long after?

    3) If Prime takes a while to work and detoxifies/removes ammonia when I add the water to the tank, if my ammonia drops, how can I be certain its from bacteria consuming it, and not the prime removing it?

    3) Will adding Prime disrupt my ability to cycle the tank and establish BB colonies because it removes/detoxifies ammonia?


    I hope this wasn't too wordy, if I can do anything to provide clarity, please let me know.

    Sincerely,
    Confused and frustrated.
    1. it will detoxify 24-48 hours and it will still come up on a test.

    2. prime works pretty fast. but you should still wait awhile for the tank to stabilize and recirculate after you change the water before retesting few hours to a twenty four.

    3. sorta goes with #1. the bacteria can still consume it when its detoxified. it most defiantly does not remove any of it. it's just not harmful while its detoxified.

    4. no


    and one question for you but have you tested your tap water for niTrates as well ? also when testing for nitrates make sure you shake bottle #2 like your hands going to come off you can get falsely low readings if you don't shake that bottle enough.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks for the reply, if ammonia is still going to read on the test, after its been detoxified, how can I ever know what my level of "harmful" ammonia is, and how do I know when to change my water? I might be getting a reading of between .25-.50 even if its not harmful to the fish.

    No I haven't tested my tap water for nitrates, but I do shake vigorously for 30 seconds, and then after recapping the test tube, I shake that vigorously for 1 minute, then allow it to sit for 5 minutes before reading.

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    any amount is harmful once the bond breaks after the 24-48 hours is over. you could add the prime directly to the tank to insure all the ammonia is detoxed. which like you said your doing a PWC (parital water changes) every few days so might as well detox the entire tank. what you need is enough BB (beneficial bacteria) to consume the .25 your adding in + your bioload within a few hours after changing the water. it should be zero when you're completely done cycling. You should test your tap to make sure you don't have nitrates your tap could be 5-10 and could of messed the test up once. Another possibility is if you werent testing daily you could of missed nitrite spike. If the test kit is fairly new id shake that bottle for then 30 seconds i just got a kit a few weeks ago and i still slam that bottle on the counter and hit the bottom , sides , corners. Then shake it for 1 minute or more. That regent really solidifies when you aren't using it. when you do the filter swap today? i suggest that you take your old sponge and place it in the media tray . so maybe the sponge they give you - your old sponge - <whatever your sticking in the chemical stage here > - biomax. on my aquaclear 50 i have 2 stages of biomax + the sponge they give you because i don't want to use carbon. i recently swapped to it so i took my old sponge and put it ontop of the last stage of biomax but had i thought it through more id have stuck it between each stage of biomax. I just didn't want to disturb the tray after i had the idea of sticking it in the tray to transfer Any bacteria it had vs just squeezing it out.

  5. #5

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    My thought is that you might never see a reading for nitrites considering how often you change the water...and my guess is your ammonia is at .25 because it isn't completely cycled yet. If you are still growing bacteria, there needs to be a low level of ammonia present anyway to feed the bacteria already grown in the media.

    Once the cycle is complete, you should be getting a reading of 0 for ammonia. I hope I'm correct here : )
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by justanothertank View Post
    I suggest that you take your old sponge and place it in the media tray . so maybe the sponge they give you - your old sponge - <whatever your sticking in the chemical stage here > - biomax. on my aquaclear 50 i have 2 stages of biomax + the sponge they give you because i don't want to use carbon. i recently swapped to it so i took my old sponge and put it ontop of the last stage of biomax but had i thought it through more id have stuck it between each stage of biomax. I just didn't want to disturb the tray after i had the idea of sticking it in the tray to transfer Any bacteria it had vs just squeezing it out.
    The Aqueon 30 only came with an activated carbon pouch. I already put the Aquaclear 70 in, and I am still running the 30 as well as the Aquaclear now...it seems to be too much water flow for my Guppies though (The 70 is set to minimum flow). I'd like to remove the 30.

    1) Should I just move the activated carbon pouch from the 30 to the Aquaclear?

    2) Can I just rest the carbon pouch from the 30 on top of the biomax bag in the 70? OR should I take the carbon bag that came with the Aquaclear out and replace it with the one that has been running in the 30 since mid March?

    3) As long as water is flowing through/on the carbon pouch, it should be alright, right? Will this ensure I don't disturb the growth of my BB?

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Also I tested my tap water. It has about 10 Nitrate straight out of the tap.

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ickyvolnao View Post
    Also I tested my tap water. It has about 10 Nitrate straight out of the tap.
    you have horrible tap water then like i do ( i don't have ammonia on my tap though). You may want to look into getting a algae scrubber to help remedy that nitrate problem. Its rather hard to do water changes weekly to remove nitrates with 10 nitrates at the source, your 'fresh water' your replacing is basically going to only dilute your existing nitrates in the tank (which is the end of the cycle and will rise) and keep them manageable. The algae scrubber will not eliminate the need to do water changes once your cycled, but it will help so you aren't doing large water changes every few days playing the dilute the nitrate game. for now just keep an eye out and keep doing partial water changes.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    What is an algae scrubber? Like one of the magnets that sticks to the glass?

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Nevermind, just looked it up, thanks. I'll look into it.

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