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  1. #1

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    Default Anyone have experience with bearded dragons?


    0 Not allowed!
    My wife got offered a free bearded dragon + full setup. I asked for more information about the specimen and what comes with it, and I'm doing the internet research. Anyone have any personal experience to go along with that?
    300 gallon mega tank: sailfin pleco, clown loaches, silver dollars, roseline sharks, congo tetras, new world cichlids
    125 gallon office tank: Africian cichlids, synodontis catfih
    75 gallon community tank: bolivian rams, black skirt tetras, dwarf neon rainbowfish, corys, harlequin rasboras, otos, bristlenose and bulldog plecos, assassin snails, various shrimp
    60 gallon goldfish tank: fancy goldfish

  2. #2

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    No Message - korith   Just a 'Thank you' penguin to a water treatment guy :-D. Clean water and sanitiation is a CORNERSTONE of modern civilization that people take for granted and don't think twice about & I felt that way about it before I had fish lol. Thanks to my HS Hi - 850R   because I LOL'ed at your single neon 90 gal show fish - ddavis1979   For the help on CO2 and plants - Greentoads41   Great looking tank you have! - ~firefly~   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by funkman262 View Post
    Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.
    I've read that the 10.0 is better than the 5.0 for UVB. Beardies start out primarily on insects but as they age, generally by a year they are mostly on a veggie diet(80% veggies, 20%insects), which should be dusted with a good vitamin supplement(such as Herptevite).

  4. #4

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    No Message - korith   Just a 'Thank you' penguin to a water treatment guy :-D. Clean water and sanitiation is a CORNERSTONE of modern civilization that people take for granted and don't think twice about & I felt that way about it before I had fish lol. Thanks to my HS Hi - 850R   because I LOL'ed at your single neon 90 gal show fish - ddavis1979   For the help on CO2 and plants - Greentoads41   Great looking tank you have! - ~firefly~   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by leaveittoweaver View Post
    I've read that the 10.0 is better than the 5.0 for UVB. Beardies start out primarily on insects but as they age, generally by a year they are mostly on a veggie diet(80% veggies, 20%insects), which should be dusted with a good vitamin supplement(such as Herptevite).
    The 10.0 can put out too much UVR in for a juvie in a 10g, but for a larger/taller tank the 10.0 would be better (which is why I asked for more details about the setup). And yes, their diets change over time which is why again more info is needed for specifics.

  5. #5

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Minus all that techy stuff-a few of my friends have them: they are great personable and enjoyable pets.

  6. #6

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    Cancer - Epilepsy - Foster Care - Gynecological Cancer - Rett Syndrome - Brhino   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks guys - I'm hoping it's not a young one, it seems like they require more work than the adults do.

    I've seen a few sites speak highly of their temperament and/or personality. What does that really mean, in terms of a lizard? I had an iguana when I was a kid and it became quite ill-tempered as it got older. Became very hard to manage.
    300 gallon mega tank: sailfin pleco, clown loaches, silver dollars, roseline sharks, congo tetras, new world cichlids
    125 gallon office tank: Africian cichlids, synodontis catfih
    75 gallon community tank: bolivian rams, black skirt tetras, dwarf neon rainbowfish, corys, harlequin rasboras, otos, bristlenose and bulldog plecos, assassin snails, various shrimp
    60 gallon goldfish tank: fancy goldfish

  7. #7

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    【ツ】 - korith   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I had a breeding pair for a while, the male while by himself was content to sit on your shoulder as you walked around or would just sit on the back of the couch while you watched tv. On the other hand the female could not be taken out of the enclosure as she saw it as a chance to break free into the wild, a number of times she went missing after she bolted. Juvies are not that much harder to care for at all, I used to feed crickets all the time and just had celery leaves which they love and melon readily available all the time.
    6ft Australian Fresh water turtle tank - 2 macleay river turtles, numerous guppy at varying stages of development.

    5ft 150gal planted discus tank - 8 discus, 10 cardinal tetras, 10 rummnose, 6 albino cories, and breeding RCS in tank sump and just about everywhere everything done from scratch, filtration and stand tank
    journal @
    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...d.php?t=101658

  8. #8

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Brhino View Post
    Thanks guys - I'm hoping it's not a young one, it seems like they require more work than the adults do.

    I've seen a few sites speak highly of their temperament and/or personality. What does that really mean, in terms of a lizard? I had an iguana when I was a kid and it became quite ill-tempered as it got older. Became very hard to manage.
    Basically they aren't as likely to try to bite you or tail whip you. They are pretty content to just chill with you as a rule.

    They are nothing like Iguanas haha, Iguanas definitely can become aggressive as they reach sexual maturity.

  9. #9

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    In general Bearded dragons are easy to handle and care for, as long as you read into it like any other pet.
    Just make sure the little guy/girl gets the proper food and nutriŽnts and keep an eye on the temperature and humidity and such things and you'll do just fine.
    Might be nice to add a few friends if the tank size allows it.

  10. #10

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by funkman262 View Post
    Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.
    This is almost everything you need to get started, great post.

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