Anyone have experience with bearded dragons?

[Brhino]

My wife got offered a free bearded dragon + full setup. I asked for more information about the specimen and what comes with it, and I'm doing the internet research. Anyone have any personal experience to go along with that?

[funkman262]

Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.

[leaveittoweaver]

Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.

I've read that the 10.0 is better than the 5.0 for UVB. Beardies start out primarily on insects but as they age, generally by a year they are mostly on a veggie diet(80% veggies, 20%insects), which should be dusted with a good vitamin supplement(such as Herptevite).

[funkman262]

I've read that the 10.0 is better than the 5.0 for UVB. Beardies start out primarily on insects but as they age, generally by a year they are mostly on a veggie diet(80% veggies, 20%insects), which should be dusted with a good vitamin supplement(such as Herptevite).

The 10.0 can put out too much UVR in for a juvie in a 10g, but for a larger/taller tank the 10.0 would be better (which is why I asked for more details about the setup). And yes, their diets change over time which is why again more info is needed for specifics.

[mizzoutank]

Minus all that techy stuff-a few of my friends have them: they are great personable and enjoyable pets.

[Brhino]

Thanks guys - I'm hoping it's not a young one, it seems like they require more work than the adults do.

I've seen a few sites speak highly of their temperament and/or personality. What does that really mean, in terms of a lizard? I had an iguana when I was a kid and it became quite ill-tempered as it got older. Became very hard to manage.

[Sandz]

Your'e going to need a heat lamp, UVB bulb, digital thermometer, large decoration or branch for the beardie to clime up (placed under the lights), calcium sand (if over 6") or reptile carpet, and a hut of some sort for hiding. For the UVB bulb, I would suggest a T8 reptisun 5.0 as they've been proven and are in the correct wavelength (some others go too far towards UVC which can be damaging to their skin and eyes). The T8s are better than the spiral bulbs because they create a safer gradient downwards and span the length of the tank compared to the spirals that can be too intense and only work when the beardie is under it. The heat lamp should be 75W to 150W depending on the height of the tank. You need to place the digital thermometer where the beardie basks because it should be about 100-110F in that area. The branch or decoration under the heat lamp is so that the beardie can move closer to the light when he needs more heat. Most prefer live crickets but you can also give them mealworms, and they're omnivores so you should also give them veggies often and fruits on occasion. When you find out the age/size of the beardie and the setup that's included then I may be able to give you some more specific information.

This is almost everything you need to get started, great post.