Cycling Issues - Ammonia Stuck

**imma24** · 03-06-2013, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by seabiscuit68

Just curious, what is the level you should keep ammonia under for a fish in cycle of cheap, hardy fish?

May I add that when cycling with ANY fish, ammonia should ideally go no higher than .25, otherwise a water change is needed. Also, it's not recommended to get cheap, hardy fish just to cycle a tank - it's best to get fish that will be kept in the tank long term.

**seabiscuit68** · 03-06-2013, 01:55 PM

Originally Posted by Hardy85

This may be a dumb question... but what are you using for filter media?

If you changed the water and didn't use a dechlorinator that could explain the slow/no cycle yet.... but all I can say is be patient. just sit back and wait and test. Cycling with fish is a pain (having to do the water changes as much, slowly adding a few fish, getting rid of dead fish etc etc)

And I agree, the instant cycle bottles are a sham, they may work, but not as well as a real cycle

I used PRIME on the water before using it in the aquarium - this should have removed the chlorine.

**seabiscuit68** · 03-06-2013, 01:57 PM

Quick question that is unrelated -

Once the aquarium is stable and I have fish in it, I plan to keep it between 76 - 78°F. When you do water changes of heated water, do you use the correct temperature tap water, add PRIME and then add to tank? Or do you add the warm water, then add PRIME?

**Honey Badger 1** · 03-06-2013, 02:00 PM

If you are using buckets add Prime to the bucket then fill it with tap water matching the temperature to your tank water then refill the tank. If you are using a water changer like a Python or Aqueon, then add enough Prime for the volume of the tank to the tank prior to fill up, then fill up the tank.

**imma24** · 03-06-2013, 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by seabiscuit68

Quick question that is unrelated -

Once the aquarium is stable and I have fish in it, I plan to keep it between 76 - 78°F. When you do water changes of heated water, do you use the correct temperature tap water, add PRIME and then add to tank? Or do you add the warm water, then add PRIME?

I add Prime to treat my whole tank then refill buckets with heated water, dump them into the tank.

**myofibroblast** · 03-06-2013, 04:34 PM

Cermet,

Can you provide us with references regarding the need for commercially available product to be refrigerated for it to be "correct".

I'm still uncertain what "correct" means. Please elaborate.

**seabiscuit68** · 03-13-2013, 04:32 PM

All,

Thanks for your advice and the information you provided. I figured I would come and give an update since it has been about a week.

Last Wednesday, I went home, through in the testing chemicals for Nitrite expecting it to be the same light blue as always - instead, it turned purple!

I was excited (obviously) as my cycle had finally started. Now, a week later, my ammonia goes from the 1-2 ppm I dose after work to 0 ppm by the time I get home the next day and test it. My Nitrite is sky high (and I don't think will ever go down fully as I continue to does the ammonia), and my Nitrate is > 80 ppm.

I am pretty sure that means I am fully cycled. I plan to do a 75 - 90% water change tonight or tomorrow night to bring down the Nitrite and Nitrate, and then go shopping for some fish!

I am planning on putting in about 5 tetras (Cardinal I think), maybe 3 Platties, 1-2 Otto catfish, 5 rasboras and then the Male Betta that I started with...

If my Betta decides to eat the other fish, well then I guess he made his choice and he wants to live in a small bowl without a filter or heater - he just isn't a great decision maker haha!

Any other suggestions for fish? I haven't bought any yet. Will the Otto's eat poop as well as algae and leftover food?

Thanks

**Honey Badger 1** · 03-13-2013, 05:58 PM

It's great things finally started moving along but your cycle is not complete until both ammonia and nitrite read 0ppm within 24 hours after dosing with ammonia, and there are nitrates. Unless I am misreading your post and you have 0ppm for both ammonia and nitrite and some nitrate when you get home from work the next day you still have some cycling to go.

No fish will intentionally eat poop. Oto's are pretty strict vegetarians and needs lots of algae you can also give them veggies.

**fishmommie** · 03-13-2013, 06:12 PM

Mommy1 is right. You are almost there but are not yet cycled.
Test your water only once every 24 hours to give the bacteria a chance to work.
Any time (after 24 hours) that ammonia is 0 but you still have nitrites, dose ammonia to 1 again then wait 24 hours and test again.
the day that you show 0 for both ammonia and nitrites, your tank is cycled. Do a large water change to reduce the nitrates and stock your fish.

As for additional fish, I can't remember the size of your tank but instead of adding more species, I'd increase the school of cardinals and rasboras to 6 - 8 each. Ottos also like schools of at least 6.
Some have had bad experiences with bettas in community tanks but I have not and I know others keep them successfully in community tanks so hopefully yours will be fine.
If not though, since the betta can't make decisions, but only act on instinct, please put him in a minimum of a 5 gallon cycled tank as soon as possible. he needs to be kept at 80 degrees as well.

As for the cycle - you're almost home! keep up the good work.

**imma24** · 03-13-2013, 06:47 PM

Originally Posted by seabiscuit68

My Nitrite is sky high (and I don't think will ever go down fully as I continue to does the ammonia), and my Nitrate is > 80 ppm.

Your nitrites WILL go down to 0 - it spikes like it's doing now and then come down to 0 - the final water change is to lower the nitrAtes which need to be 20ppm or less.

I am pretty sure that means I am fully cycled. I plan to do a 75 - 90% water change tonight or tomorrow night to bring down the Nitrite and Nitrate, and then go shopping for some fish!

Agree with above post - you are NOT ready for fish until your ammonia & nitrites are BOTH 0 & nitrAtes are lowered by you.

Any other suggestions for fish? I haven't bought any yet. Will the Otto's eat poop as well as algae and leftover food?

Again as above, do not purchase fish to eat things in your tank - buy them because you like them. It is your job to clean up leftover food if you don't want it rotting - that's where careful feeding comes in so you don't have leftovers : ) It is also your job to remove waste - via siphoning/gravel cleaning during water changes.

Please see my responses above