Thread: my first issue with ick!
02-21-2013, 02:27 AM #11
1: you see the spots on the fish (means you are too late for removing any other fish)
2: spots go away, and the ich lives in the water column/substrate to multiply
3: re attaches to fish
so that is why the recommended treatment is to continue things at least 4-7 days post visible signs of the ich because it is in the other stage of it's life.
(sadly this is why QT's are too important to not have, I risked it for 7months on a tank and after I got ich, it wasn't worth the stress to not have a QT)
lots of O2
meds that are safe
will get you through this.
02-21-2013, 11:09 AM #12
0125 - big fish - BGK
125 - cichlid community - cichlids (red severums, chanchitos, bolivian rams, blue acara, chocolate), rainbows (yellow, turquoise, red and boesmani), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, pearl gouramis, golden wonder killis
90 - african community - Congo tetras, african knife, african butterflies, spotted ctenopoma, palmas bichir, african featherfin
10 - female pink convict
5 - betta/ADFs
QTs - 2x29, 20H, 20L
02-21-2013, 12:36 PM #13
I don't understand why you would treat with medication for one day then remove it all and switch treatments. Pick one treatment and stick with it.
Heat of 86 degrees.........OR......
An Ick Medication with temps of about 82........OR....
Adding aquarium salt to a tank of about 82 (1 T. per 5 gallon)
With the heat treatment or with the medication treatment, add an airstone or drop the water level for more oxygen lev els. Remove all charcoal from the filter if using medication.
Pick a treatment and stick with it rather than switching around mid way through it.
Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 02-21-2013 at 12:39 PM.